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151ci Carb help please

151ci Carb help please

wingedmare

Jeeper
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Location
29 palms
Vehicle(s)
1981 CJ5 151ci 2.5l
borg warner SR4/ TC: dana 300/ FA: dana 30/ RA: dana 44
Hello all, I am new here and looking for an assist.

I am banging my head against the wall and I hope you guys can help out.

My CJ5 has the 4cyl iron duke. I am still running the original Carb but when I start going up or down steeper trails she either stalls or chokes out, and she throws some tantrums doing rapid elevation.

I am trying to find what the best carburetor is I can put on this engine to solve these issues. I am becoming very frustrated because most of the responses I get else where are to go fuel injected or to go with a new/bigger motor, neither of which I want to do. I like my CJ as is, I just want her to be more reliable out on the trails in the desert.

So, please all opinions welcome. Also, don't worry about if it is CA legal or not as we are Military and the Jeep is registered back home.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm sorry to report I can't help with the carb:(. But, if you could post some more pictures of the rear bumper of your CJ it would be cool! (Maybe a new post?):chug:
 
sure, I will start a new thread for you with that. if nothing else your request will keep this post from be lost in to oblivion. :)
 
A lot of the duke race cars are running a Rochester 210 2mc basically it's the front half of a quadrajet wich didn't earn the nickname hillbilly fuel injection for nothing..they seem to stay running at any angle. Although I am not sure about a clean swap I.e. cable's and such into a jeep. I will ask around tomorrow the storm gave me a day off.
 
Does that carrier flip down? No matter how I turn my iPad I can't see the back of your jeep. It looks hinged.
 
Tinman22, THANKS! I really appreciate that. as for the pics, I have a thread over in the chasis/body section with clearer pictures. But, the whole thing is on a hing. The latch is on the driver side and it swings out 90*, the hing has a lock on it to lock it open.
 
32/36 dgev weber is what a friend just said works on his monza and he even wins...sometimes. A lot of people use them on their 6's but I have heard mixed results.
 
I run a Weber 32/36 DGEV on my iron duke. It ran pretty good out of the box, so I have not done any tuning. It made a huge difference on the way my jeep runs. You'll need a fuel pressure regulator(cost around $35 or so and easy to plumb) and will need to make up some linkage to make it run without binding. The linkage is the trickiest part.
 
How does it perform on the trail? Also, can you share how you set up the linkage? Pics, descriptions, etc.
 
It runs good on the trail. In my experience it has been as better on hill climbs than the Rochester. I ended up with a good bit more power too (for a 4cyl). For linkage I left all the stock cabling in place and made an extra piece using a piece of threaded rod and a couple of ball ends to line up the linkage so it wouldn't bind.

I did it a couple of years ago, so weber could now offer a solution, but I'm not sure. I'll try to get some pics posted by the weekend.
 
Oh, and by "binding up" what do you mean exactly?
thanks for all the input. :)
 
I'm not sure what he means by binding as I'm not familiar with the weber. But yesterday I went and bought some axles ( because you can't have too many) and the consensus was for big? Dukes and high rpm the bigger Rochester was the way to go but for lower rpm and "jeepin" the weber would be a better bet.
Anybody need any axles before my wife finds out?
 
I refuse to keep axles around, I fear having extras would jinx me!! ;) As for the advice, thanks for looking out. It seems the Weber has the top vote. Now just to find out about this "binding" business so I don't have to make mistakes made by others already!
 
Oh, and by "binding up" what do you mean exactly?
thanks for all the input. :)

What I meant by binding is that the throttle cable does not line up, it tries to pull at an angle, so when you press the gas, it will not move the linkage on the side of the carb and the gas pedal does not move. The piece I made lines it all back up. I'll post some pics tomorrow or Saturday AM
 
I built my entire jeep around two tires I bought at a swap meet. Currently I have a good start on about 1,000 jeeps . My only jinx is my wife letting me leave the house. Wait till I get around to building the one around that 49" Michlin and deuce and a half pinion rotor.
 
What I meant by binding is that the throttle cable does not line up, it tries to pull at an angle, so when you press the gas, it will not move the linkage on the side of the carb and the gas pedal does not move. The piece I made lines it all back up. I'll post some pics tomorrow or Saturday AM

OK, that makes sense. That would be quick a pain. thanks for all this input guys. I really appreciate it.
 
I built my entire jeep around two tires I bought at a swap meet. Currently I have a good start on about 1,000 jeeps . My only jinx is my wife letting me leave the house. Wait till I get around to building the one around that 49" Michlin and deuce and a half pinion rotor.

I have wanted a CJ5 since I was little and my dad drove a J10. Broke my heart when my mom sold it to my brother and I didn't get my crack at it! After that I pined for a CJ. This one was a very lucky find. Only 2 owners before me. Original owner passed away and his neighbors bought it from his estate, lucky for me they didn't really understand what they were buying and decided to sell it because it was "too bouncy" :) I have since put tons of love and blood in to her, this Carb is the final piece!!
 
I have the same exact issue with my GM 151 . Mine is a little newer. It is on a 1985 CJ7 . It does the same thing when climbing hills. What we did was a simple Carb rebuild. When we took the carb apart it we found the float was out of adjustment. My thought is with the float not adjusted correctly it was allowing too much fuel into the bowl this causes the flooding type condition where the motors starts acting up. I haven't been able to test the jeep since the repair because now we're tearing it apart for repaint. This may be what yours needs. the rebuild kit was around $30.00 and my local car part center.
 

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