1983 CJ7 Rear Axle Recommendations. Appreciate the input!

[Texxas]

First of all I would like to thank everyone for their help with my previous post. Using the info from that post I am moving into the final decision making for my CJ7 project. Here is where I need your help!

I have multiple options for the rear end and want your recommendations. The Jeep will be used as a driver with some offroad use. It already has a 3 inch lift on it. Engine will be the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l inline six with standard tranny.

A) Do I go back with the Dana 20 rear end? MY current Dana 20 with the CJ came without axle shafts...i will need to replace them if I keep it. (recommendations on shafts?)

B) I can purchase a Dana 60 from a guy getting it off of a F250 4X4. Complete drum to drum for $200.

or
C) Look for a Dana 44 or other option.

Appreciate your input in advance!

Texx

 

[Cheepjeep85]

well what size tires are you planning on? if not bigger than 35s i'd buy a 1pc axle kit for the AMC20 and possibly truss it. it will hold up fine with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . you could go with other axles but they will either be full width or you will have to narrow them. just my opinion, you will have more shortly.

 

[Old Dog]

Here's how I see it...
IF your AMC20 only needs axle shafts and not regearing, and your never going over 35" tires, I'd stick a pair of superior axles 1 piece shafts in it and drive on.
A Dana 44 would be ok if you plan to go with wider axles in the future.
The Dana 60 would be the way to go if you want to run 38's or bigger tires with full width axles.
Theres nothing wrong with the AMC20 as long as you address it's weaknesses. But if you plan to be regearing $$$$ and adding a locker $$$ down the road you would be better off starting with a 44.

 

[CJim7]

I agree with the above posts....The fact the axle shafts aren't in there means there is less to take out when you do the 1pc conversion

Im running 36" Swampers on my locked corp 20 with a lot of hp and Im not worried about it one bit...and I've abused the hell out of it for dang near 20 years now with no issues. Im way more concerned about the front.

If you get a different axle for the rearend, keep in mind there's a lot of variables to take into consideration to match the front axle....width, gear ratio, bolt pattern... It's better to shop for a matching set of axles.

 

[Texxas]

I agree with the above posts....The fact the axle shafts aren't in there means there is less to take out when you do the 1pc conversion

Im running 36" Swampers on my locked corp 20 with a lot of hp and Im not worried about it one bit...and I've abused the hell out of it for dang near 20 years now with no issues. Im way more concerned about the front.

If you get a different axle for the rearend, keep in mind there's a lot of variables to take into consideration to match the front axle....width, gear ratio, bolt pattern... It's better to shop for a matching set of axles.

Thx mucho bud!

Texx

 

[bdunnam]

Just personally i would put a ford 9" rear end out of an old bronco, or pickup from the early to late 70's

 

[CJim7]

Just personally i would put a ford 9" rear end out of an old bronco, or pickup from the early to late 70's

The big bearing 9" is the way to go if you are going to swap to a strong axle and keep good ground clearance. That 9" is very strong and light to begin with and with a little more work on it, you can run 40" tires. Definately my first choice over a 44 and, built right, even over a 60 or a 14b. Plus you keep the 5-5½ bp if Im not mistaken, and width is narrower then full-size which makes it ideal for a Jeep swap.

 

[fzsk4p]

The big bearing 9" is the way to go if you are going to swap to a strong axle and keep good ground clearance. That 9" is very strong and light to begin with and with a little more work on it, you can run 40" tires. Definately my first choice over a 44 and, built right, even over a 60 or a 14b. Plus you keep the 5-5½ bp if Im not mistaken, and width is narrower then full-size which makes it ideal for a Jeep swap.

Jim,
you are right about the 9 inch. Pound for pound a built 9 inch is a pretty tuff puppy. The heartburn is the ultra low pinion. Which in a short wheel base Jeep and make the driveshaft angles pretty steep.

A 14 bolt is a dang tough axle and with different hubs you can make it into several widths. Down side is the weight and the sheer size of the center section. They hang pretty low. A 14 bolt can be shaved to gain ground clearance though.

How about the Ford 8.8 from the Explorers ? With just a few mods they are tough to beat. As a bonus they can come with disc brakes and an integrated parking brake.

 

[RangerRick]

How about the Ford 8.8 from the Explorers ? With just a few mods they are tough to beat. As a bonus they can come with disc brakes and an integrated parking brake.

Thought id mention the 8.8 as I built one for my CJ, it's handling the built power of a Vortec 350 just great and was dirt cheap. The goal in my Jeep build was to avoid the H E A V Y un-sprung weight of TONs and maintain roughly the same wide-track width for tight technical trails I run in the trees and on narrow shelf roads. I have less than 1K in the whole thing that includes a brand new Detroit Locker, narrowing the axle to take two passenger shafts and all necessary parts including armored diff cover. Now I have 4-wheel disc brakes, a parking brake that works and axle shafts that are available in any junkyard for less than $29 a piece. A bonus, I only need to carry one spare shaft if I were worried about breakage since they fit both sides. This was a good match with the 76 Chevy 3/4 ton camper special HD Dana 44 8 lug I narrowed, converted to 5x5.5, High-Steer up front and both combined have saved me close to 350 lbs in un-sprung weight vs. TON's. Don't get me wrong here, I could have built a D60 or the ultimate D70 HD serious beef for a tad more green but the largest tire I run is 37's due to not wanting more lift or cutting up my tub for a LCG lift to clear larger tires on less lift. So far, everything is holding up just great.

RangerRick

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Tex I think we need some more information to really make a good recommendation for you. Even then axles are so subjective its hard to get good recommendations from forums because as you can see everyone has differing opinions.

It would be a good Idea to tell everyone:

1)Do you have the fab skills to cut off and relocate(weld) on new/move the old spring perches on an axle. On the same token can you do the same with the shock mounts. Or are you willing to pay a shop to do this... If not you just eliminated every other axle except a stock D35 or AMC20 or CJ Dana 44 (found in the end of the 86 run) as these directly bolt in to your stock springs.

2) What tire size will you be running. Personally if the road is your primary and mild offroading is what you have in mind I would not see any reason to run more than 33s to go with that 3 inch lift. Really if you are primarily roading I wouldnt go over stock-1.5" lift, but that is a personal preference for me.

3) do you want to keep you cj rims? if so this also eliminates a whole bunch of possibilities.

4) To figure out what gearing you should run we need to know the tranny and tire size you need to run. What Transfer Case your running would be useful info to but since high is 1 to 1 it doesn't affect the calculations.

I think it would be alot less headache to find some stock cj axles and upgrade the AMC20 . If you want to stay wide track though you are going to be Limited on what gears came stock. I have been searching for a set with 3.54 gears for a good half a year and finally found one that i have to drive 5 hours to go get.

 

[Rescue Diver]

I think it would be alot less headache to find some stock cj axles and upgrade the AMC20 . If you want to stay wide track though you are going to be Limited on what gears came stock. I have been searching for a set with 3.54 gears for a good half a year and finally found one that i have to drive 5 hours to go get.

Why do you need a set of 3.54 gears? What does your AMC20 currently have? Mine has 3.54. I was under the impression that those were the most common gears they put in them in the 80's?


Back on topic, if the original poster wants to just get it on the road reasonably cheap and still do an upgrade, he can buy a one piece complete axle set for both sides including bearings and seals for between $200 and $300 depending on who he orders them from and who makes them.

I'd be asking why it's missing the stock axles? did the original axles break, and if so, was there any other damage or are any parts missing that don't come in the kit?

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Why do you need a set of 3.54 gears? What does your AMC20 currently have? Mine has 3.54. I was under the impression that those were the most common gears they put in them in the 80's?


Back on topic, if the original poster wants to just get it on the road reasonably cheap and still do an upgrade, he can buy a one piece complete axle set for both sides including bearings and seals for between $200 and $300 depending on who he orders them from and who makes them.

I'd be asking why it's missing the stock axles? did the original axles break, and if so, was there any other damage or are any parts missing that don't come in the kit?

3.54 is not very common in Widetrac axles. All the way up to 81 3.54s were common. I need 3.54s because I have determined that the combination of my ax15 and 31 inch tires as well as my future build plans that 3.54 gears are what i need between the tranny and the wheels.

I agree with AMC20 with one piece shafts maybe even disk brake upgrades but we need more info on texxas's plans and drivetrain.

 

[Rescue Diver]

3.54 is not very common in Widetrac axles. All the way up to 81 3.54s were common. I need 3.54s because I have determined that the combination of my ax15 and 31 inch tires as well as my future build plans that 3.54 gears are what i need between the tranny and the wheels.

That's funny. I have wide track axles with the gears you want, but with my 33's and the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engine, I've been wishing I had lower gears.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

That's funny. I have wide track axles with the gears you want, but with my 33's and the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engine, I've been wishing I had lower gears.

I am sending you a pm so I dont derail this thread....