32/36 Weber DGEV flooding in one barrel only

[76cj7chick]

Any one know what would cause my new 32/36 DGEV 2 bbl weber to flood in only one barrel. (The secondary not primary?)

Here is my specs:
1976 CJ7 with AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l straight six with a one barrel intake but I used an adapter (that was included in my carb package) to make it a 2 barrel.

Since the beginning the carb has flooded between the gaskets -adapter plate and lower carb area. I adjusted the idle mixture out 2 complete turns from bottom out. But when I shut off the jeep and look in the secondary barrel it is flooded. (Before adjusting the idle mixture It would spit out black smoke from the exhaust -which I assume indicates a rich gas mixture. After adjusting I don't notice the black smoke but it does stumble in idle a bit (haven't touched the idle or fast Idle screws yet...)
I did adjust the choke (3 screws but didn't hold open the throttle - perhaps this is causing my issue of flooding? Also, I get white "smoke" (fuel vapor?) coming out of the primary barrel -used to be both but now just notice in the one barrel.

I've read on line that the flooding my be caused by several things:
Float wrong/ bad
Vacuum leak
TIming issue
etc.

Where should I first start?

I also noticed that the two CTO switches on the engine block are not connected to anything nor are they plugged... Could this be a vacuum issue?

I wanted to add I've installed a NEW Fuel tank, Fuel filter with return nipple, fuel pump most hoses are new and have a fuel pressure regulator at 3.5 psi.

EDIT: Also is this a progressive or single action carb?

Any assistance would be soooo helpful. Thanks guys.

 

[oss]

If I remember correctly, you turn the idle mixture screw in to feed less fuel. Can you bump the fuel pressure to 4psi?
The Webers that I have had have usually run pretty well out of the box.
Hope this helps.

 

[Supertrunk]

Have you checked your float height yet?

I just put a 32/36 DGEV on my '81 CJ, and one of the first things the instructions said to do before installing, was to verify the float height after shipping. I'm not sure if it was shipping, or poor original assembly, but out of the box the float height was WAY off.............




While you are in there, you could verify all of your existing jet sizes, and that they are all properly in place.



Hope this helps.

P.S. Dimensions are in millimeters!

 

[76cj7chick]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I will be sure to check out the float level.

I have some pics of the hose set up. One of the PO (previous owner) removed all the emission hoses. They also left a lot of vacuum holes/switches open.

Anyone know which cto switch (2 port or 3 port) is vacuum? Both are NOT capped.. Maybe I have to cap one or both?

I installed a Vapor Canister, as my jeep didn't have one. But it only has two ports. One for the carb and one for the tank fuel vapors. Would this cause an issue with the carb?

Any suggestions on how to make the hose routing more effective?

Thanks for your help I am a newb to carbs...

 

[76cj7chick]

Have you checked your float height yet?

I just put a 32/36 DGEV on my '81 CJ, and one of the first things the instructions said to do before installing, was to verify the float height after shipping. I'm not sure if it was shipping, or poor original assembly, but out of the box the float height was WAY off.............




While you are in there, you could verify all of your existing jet sizes, and that they are all properly in place.



Hope this helps.

P.S. Dimensions are in millimeters!

Thanks for the suggestion supertrunk. But would the secondary barrel be the only one to flood after shut down if the float is not right? (It may be flooding the barrel while running, but I won't look in the barrel until after I shut it off.

 

[76cj7chick]

If I remember correctly, you turn the idle mixture screw in to feed less fuel. Can you bump the fuel pressure to 4psi?
The Webers that I have had have usually run pretty well out of the box.
Hope this helps.

Hmm.. I've read if I turn the screw in (clockwise) it will feed less air fuel mixture. But that I should turn the idle mixture out to 2 turns counterclockwise after "softly" bottoming out .
If I increase the fuel pressure to 4 psi that would be higher than weber recommends (3-3.5 psi) And that would give more fuel.... correct?

I wish we all could be so lucky like you as to have the weber perform correctly out of the box.
But like I said, The primary barrel (closest to the choke) doesn't flood... Just the secondary barrel... So perhaps supertrunk is right in that I need to adjust the float level.. But that means I have to remove it... and then get new gaskets and redo..

 

[76cj7chick]

So anyone know if the carb could be flooding if there is a vacuum leak?

My CTO switches are both open... (see pics)-- At lease that is what I believe they are...
I don't know which is the vacuum and the temp coolant switch.. If anyone knows the answer please feel free to share with me.

Before I remove the carb, I plan on double checking my ignition timing and compression testing the engine... Or would these NOT have anything to do with the carb flooding in the secondary barrel only?

I appreciate any help you guys are willing to send my way as this is a frustrating event.

 

[76cj7chick]

Here is a pic of before (when I first bought the little jeep and so far what I have done to it)

 

[CJ]

~~~ Anyone know which cto switch (2 port or 3 port) is vacuum? Both are NOT capped.. Maybe I have to cap one or both?

If you have no vacuum lines connected to a 'CTO' switch (Coolant Temperature Override) then it is bypassed and you can leave it open. Heck, if you do not have any lines hooked to them and you want a cleaner look you can even break off the plastic piece hanging off the block. The preferred method is to use a pipe plug though...

 

[yellow85cj]

As CJ said, the CTO switches are currently doing nothing. The have no vacuum unless you provide it from a vacuum source (carb,manifold). They operate on heat changes and open a "valve" inside them to control the vacuum that controls something else.

The fuel filter should be mounted horizontally, with the return line on top. Don't know if this could be causing your problem, or just adding to it.

One pic of your EGR block off plate almost looks like exhaust has been leaking out the bottom. May just be the pic, but it sure looks like carbon on the manifold.

Not familiar with a 76, but the 85 charcoal canister has 4 hoses, yours looks like it only has 2. Maybe running the wrong lines to the ports you have?

Here is a link to info about what does what for post 83 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 's, you may be able to get a little info that can help with what goes where on yours.

Table of Contents

Yes the carb you have is progressive, runs on one barrel until you put your foot into it. I did have a problem with mine in that the linkage on the carb was binding a bit and wouldn't open the second barrel. May check yours, might be open when it shouldn't be?

 

[oss]

Sorry about the confusion I was still in Holley mode. Go with the direction your taking.

 

[Supertrunk]

I'm on the road right now, "working by phone", so I'm having trouble with the pictures, so forgive me if I saw something stupid..........

The top plate of the carb comes off with six flat head screws, leaving the body attached to the manifold. The top plate gasket should be reusable. I've had mine off several times adjusting the jetting.

Each barrell can be (and most likely will be) jetted individually. I have a different idle jet, main jet, emulsion tube, and air corrector jet in each side before I was happy.

Shoot me a PM with a "real" email address, and I'll send you the PDF information I have on these carbs. It has all the rebuild specs, so you can be sure your's was set right at the factory.

 

[Supertrunk]

Home again, home again..............

OK, I've had mine apart several times getting the jetting sorted, my Peej has a non-stock torque cam, headers, and a 2 1/2" exhaust all the way back, and as much smog equipment removed as Texas will let me, so the stock jetting won't cut it.

Here's what my hose routing looks like; PCV, vent breather line goes to the hole in the air filter, smog pump, EGR block off, and no canister.



I've had the top off of my carb so many times I've swapped the screw-heads for allen-heads, and changed the "e-clip" on the choke out for a "hair pin clip".



The top comes right off, leaving the gasket usually unscathed.



And you can take it over to the bench to check the float height.



I set the assembly and gasket out of the way while I'm changing mains, emulsion tubes, or air corrector jets.




Something else to check since the secondary barrel is flooding, is the throttle valve clearance. You slip a feeler gauge between the edge of the brass throttle plate and the zink body (0.05mm / 0.002").




You can adjust this setting while the carb is mounted, with a small flat-bladed screwdriver from underneath right here. A small mirror makes it easier the first time.



Hope this helps give you a place to start. I've found that with any trouble shooting, make sure the factory "stock" settings are correct, so as not to be chasing your tail.

 

[76cj7chick]

WOW! THANKS GUYS! I got a tear in my eye from all the GREAT/Helpful Responses.

I took the entire carb off... Should have looked at all the responses first... But here is the float and the measurements. Anyone know if it looks good or needs to be adjusted? If it needs to be adjusted please let me know which screws to turn and which way.
However if it looks good what else besides the throttle do I have to look for?

Thanks again.

 

[76cj7chick]

Home again, home again..............

OK, I've had mine apart several times getting the jetting sorted, my Peej has a non-stock torque cam, headers, and a 2 1/2" exhaust all the way back, and as much smog equipment removed as Texas will let me, so the stock jetting won't cut it.

Here's what my hose routing looks like; PCV, vent breather line goes to the hole in the air filter, smog pump, EGR block off, and no canister.



I've had the top off of my carb so many times I've swapped the screw-heads for allen-heads, and changed the "e-clip" on the choke out for a "hair pin clip".



The top comes right off, leaving the gasket usually unscathed.



And you can take it over to the bench to check the float height.



I set the assembly and gasket out of the way while I'm changing mains, emulsion tubes, or air corrector jets.




Something else to check since the secondary barrel is flooding, is the throttle valve clearance. You slip a feeler gauge between the edge of the brass throttle plate and the zink body (0.05mm / 0.002").




You can adjust this setting while the carb is mounted, with a small flat-bladed screwdriver from underneath right here. A small mirror makes it easier the first time.



Hope this helps give you a place to start. I've found that with any trouble shooting, make sure the factory "stock" settings are correct, so as not to be chasing your tail.

Thanks for sharing lots of great pics supertrunk. I definitely will copy your set up.

 

[76cj7chick]

Sorry about the confusion I was still in Holley mode. Go with the direction your taking.

That's okay Oss... Thanks for trying to help.

 

[76cj7chick]

If you have no vacuum lines connected to a 'CTO' switch (Coolant Temperature Override) then it is bypassed and you can leave it open. Heck, if you do not have any lines hooked to them and you want a cleaner look you can even break off the plastic piece hanging off the block. The preferred method is to use a pipe plug though...

Thank you CJ for this information! That is great to know I don't have to cap them off. I don't know if I want to cut them off though...

 

[76cj7chick]

While we are on the subject of throttle arms... Anyone have a good suggestion for a bracket that will work with an electric kickdown from lokar? (I'd like to install on my gm GM Turbo 400 Transmission .) I am planning on using (po didn't have the switch connected) Lokars KDP 2400HT kickdown cable kit.... If anyone knows of a throttle bracket that will handle this cable and the gas throttle please share with me...

 

[76cj7chick]

Home again, home again..............

OK, I've had mine apart several times getting the jetting sorted, my Peej has a non-stock torque cam, headers, and a 2 1/2" exhaust all the way back, and as much smog equipment removed as Texas will let me, so the stock jetting won't cut it.

Here's what my hose routing looks like; PCV, vent breather line goes to the hole in the air filter, smog pump, EGR block off, and no canister.



I've had the top off of my carb so many times I've swapped the screw-heads for allen-heads, and changed the "e-clip" on the choke out for a "hair pin clip".



The top comes right off, leaving the gasket usually unscathed.



And you can take it over to the bench to check the float height.



I set the assembly and gasket out of the way while I'm changing mains, emulsion tubes, or air corrector jets.




Something else to check since the secondary barrel is flooding, is the throttle valve clearance. You slip a feeler gauge between the edge of the brass throttle plate and the zink body (0.05mm / 0.002").




You can adjust this setting while the carb is mounted, with a small flat-bladed screwdriver from underneath right here. A small mirror makes it easier the first time.



Hope this helps give you a place to start. I've found that with any trouble shooting, make sure the factory "stock" settings are correct, so as not to be chasing your tail.

Supertrunk, I have another question: When you say check "the throttle valve clearance." Do you have pictures of how to go about doing this? Sorry- but I am confused about "You slip a feeler gauge between the edge of the brass throttle plate and the zink body (0.05mm / 0.002")."
What is a feeler gauge and where on the throttle plate and zink body? If you have a picture I'd be so helpful if you posted it.

 

[76cj7chick]

As CJ said, the CTO switches are currently doing nothing. The have no vacuum unless you provide it from a vacuum source (carb,manifold). They operate on heat changes and open a "valve" inside them to control the vacuum that controls something else.

The fuel filter should be mounted horizontally, with the return line on top. Don't know if this could be causing your problem, or just adding to it.

One pic of your EGR block off plate almost looks like exhaust has been leaking out the bottom. May just be the pic, but it sure looks like carbon on the manifold.

Not familiar with a 76, but the 85 charcoal canister has 4 hoses, yours looks like it only has 2. Maybe running the wrong lines to the ports you have?

Here is a link to info about what does what for post 83 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 's, you may be able to get a little info that can help with what goes where on yours.

Table of Contents

Yes the carb you have is progressive, runs on one barrel until you put your foot into it. I did have a problem with mine in that the linkage on the carb was binding a bit and wouldn't open the second barrel. May check yours, might be open when it shouldn't be?

Good catch on the fuel filter... I thought I read somewhere that it should be vertical but maybe you're correct. I will try it horizontal...