36" on stock axles

36" on stock axles

ballerguy55

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kansas
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1972 jeep cj5
I have a 72 CJ5 with a SOA lift. I will prob do some more mods to accomodate 36 inch tires but I was wondering if the stock axels could support them. I would run 33's but I found a set of 36's for $200. I have heard that 72's have a rear Dana 44 and front Dana 30 . the front i think would be a weak spot. what do you think about swapping with front and rear Dana 44 's from a scout II. should i switch or will the stock axels hold?

Thanks

Alex
 
I run 36's on pretty much stock axles, well the front is stock anyway.

All I can say is be very cautious and drive with the utmost reality that it takes nothing to pop a Dana 30 U-joint. My first week out with the 36's ended in just that kind of way. Since then, I am very carefull with the skinny pedal while the wheels are turned...and have had good luck since.

They'll survive, it just takes some finesse and throttle control.
 
thanks for the response. I know it can hold up if i im careful, but i want to be able to go off roading and not worry about it. I really want to to do a Dana 44 swap from a scout II, but dont know if it will be worth it in the end. you say it takes a little control and finess but how do u think it would handle on the trails?
 
thanks for the response. I know it can hold up if i im careful, but i want to be able to go off roading and not worry about it. I really want to to do a Dana 44 swap from a scout II, but dont know if it will be worth it in the end. you say it takes a little control and finess but how do u think it would handle on the trails?

This is an example of some of the "trails" we do :D :

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This is a mild example of what I put my CJ through on a normal run. Kind of a poser picture really, but you get the idea.

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I like the Scout axle swap because there is very little to do to make them work. If you are one bit hesitant about running the 30, do the swap. I really dont recommend running 36's on a Dana 30 unless you posses that 6th sense that tells you something's about to break. Im just here to say that it is possible and with a refined driving style, you can make em work. You just have to keep in mind everytime you approach an obstacle that your front axle is susceptable to carnage.

Normal trail riding, I think you are ok. I seem to do more rock crawling then anything, so I have learned to make it survive by knowing it's limitations and not exploiting it's weakness.
 
CJim7 is telling it like it is. If your not going be happy being easy on the skinny peddle than up grade to the 44.
 
Swapping Dana 44s into a CJ isn't too hard but to do it right you should cut the front knuckles and rotate them. That way you can get the perfect angles for the U Joints and the caster. Some people just slap them in as is. The angles won't be too far off.
 
Swapping Dana 44s into a CJ isn't too hard but to do it right you should cut the front knuckles and rotate them. That way you can get the perfect angles for the U Joints and the caster. Some people just slap them in as is. The angles won't be too far off.

Right. The Scout II front axle is built with 0 caster. People do the swap and wonder why their rig wanders all over the place.
 
thanks everyone ii think im going to do it. I found a pair of scout axles about 3hours away. I am going to try and run 36's or maybe ill even do a 3" body on top of my SOA lift and run 37's. Ill post pictures when im done. and Ill continue to post to this forum to let you know how it goes. Looks like your rig can handle the rocks with just the stocks, but I dont want to have to worry about. THanks again.
 
thanks everyone ii think im going to do it. I found a pair of scout axles about 3hours away. I am going to try and run 36's or maybe ill even do a 3" body on top of my SOA lift and run 37's. Ill post pictures when im done. and Ill continue to post to this forum to let you know how it goes. Looks like your rig can handle the rocks with just the stocks, but I dont want to have to worry about. THanks again.

You should have plenty of lift going SOA to run 37's...if anything, you might do a 1" body lift as Old Dog suggested if you dont want to do any fender trimming.

It will benefit your on-road driving if you cut the inner C's, rotate about 3 degrees and reweld. As we pointed out, the Scout axle needs this done to correct castor. You can do this yourself, but a shop that has a jig can get this done cleaner and with less chance of misalignment. Depends on what you want to spend.

Good luck, sounds like you have a plan. :cool:
 
I did the same setup on my 73cj5. Scout axles narrowed down 36" swampers CJ7 springs, shackle reverse. Rides really good on the road considering. Make sure the scout axles are not open knuckle, the older ones were. Any questions just ask. Good luck.
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Make sure the scout axles are not open knuckle, the older ones were.
Mattduran, I think what you meant to say is to make sure the axles are not closed knuckle, the older ones were. Isn't that right Matt? It looks like you have open knuckle.
The older axles had the knuckle enclosed so the axle lube would flow to the U Joints. New axles all have the U Joint exposed. Open knuckle is better.
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Open knuckle is easier to work on. Newer U-Joints last much longer even when they are exposed.
 
Hah. Oops sorry about that everyone. Sure hope people are not in the market for closed knuckle now. I did mean to say open knuckle are far superior! Grease fittings on your knuckle U joints are good idea. Every time I get back from playing in the water/mud I give them a little grease. Moog makes some good ones.
 
And honestly Id stay away from a body lift if you can. Your already gonna be up there pretty good , the last thing youd need is your extra extra long body mount bolts feeling the extra pressure when your off camber. Im a fan of fender trimming myself.

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