4bbl to 2 bbl?

4bbl to 2 bbl?

rr41mag

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Location
Panama city florida
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04 dodge truck, 1966 chevy truck, 2012 rav4
And finally a 1981 jeep cj7 258 hardtop
I got a holley 600 that I want to put on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l intake. How can I do this? I know we have several adapters here at my work. (orielly)
 
You probably won't find the right adapter at a parts store. You'll probably have to dig one up at Jegs or Summit.

That being said, the Holley 600 is a lot more carb than a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l needs. Is there a reason you want to put that specific carb on and not something like a good Motorcraft 2150?
 
Forgot to add one thing.

A better alternative to an adapter is to go ahead and buy a replacement intake manifold with the carter/holley square bore 4bbl mount in it. That is, if you have the cash. They're not outrageous but the aren't as cheap as an adapter.
 
Or do the 4.0 head swap (to gain the 2bbl intake), then buy the EMPI carb set I have in the shop!
 
Wish I still worked in a machine shop. The buildup I read said put a holley 600 for more performanc. I have a dui dist. headers and next year plan on a new cam and some head work. Thats why I chose the holley 600. The ford carb seems like it's a direct bolt up. What CFM is it? I've always been under the impression that a 4BBL will get better gas mileage if you keep your foot out of it. I'm an old fart so I wouldn't put my foot in it too much :)
 
I googled AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l hopup, this is what I got:

[SIZE=-1]I’ve used two basic carbs, both Holleys. The general Holley 4-bbl. sizes best suited to this application are the 390, 450, and 600 cfm carbs. The 600 cfm should be used in vacuum secondary configuration only. Also popular are the 350 and 500 cfm 2-bbl. carburetors, although I feel that more precise mixture control is possible when using a 4-bbl. carb. I install a Ford-type automatic kickdown throttle shaft in all of my Holley’s to run the A904’s kickdown. A new linkage rod between the carb and Transmission must be fabricated.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]390 cfm- Although many people use a 390 cfm vacuum secondary carburetor, I feel that it presents too large a restriction at low rpm before the secondaries open. I have used a 390 cfm HP series double-pumper (#80157) with some success. For drag race use, the tunability of four-corner idle, and homogenity of mixture delivered by a symmetrical bore carburetor are hard to beat. The throttle butterfly plates must be replaced with those from a standard 390 cfm carburetor to eliminate the holes found in those of an HP series carb. An air cleaner stud must be installed in the HP series carburetor at all times due to the stud hole being drilled completely through the carb body, or a massive vacuum leak will exist.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]450 cfm – I have not used this size carburetor, although it would appear to be an excellent choice.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]600 cfm – I have done most of my racing with 600 cfm vacuum secondary carburetors. Many people feel that the 600 cfm carb is too large, but my experience is that the car will go faster when the secondaries of these carbs are allowed to open relatively quickly. Tuning one to work well on the AMC six takes some finesse, but is well worth the trouble. My basic setup is as follows:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Ford-style automatic kickdown throttle shaft.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Quick-change secondary spring kit.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Purple secondary spring.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Moroso clear bowl sight plugs.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Holley secondary metering block kit (or 4160 carb to start with).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Size 67 primary jets.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Size 70 secondary jets.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] 8.5 primary power valve.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Holley hollow accelerator pump shooter screw.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Size 41 accelerator pump shooter (tube type).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] 50cc accelerator pump system.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Orange pump cam on position 2 (yes, I am using the wrong cam for the 50cc accelerator pump).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Further gains can be realized by replacing the primary booster venturis with annular discharge booster venturis. The resulting increase in low RPM booster signal allows a minor reduction in main jet and accelerator pump nozzle size. This modification can be performed by any of the specialty carburetor shops, including The Carb Shop and Holley Custom Shop.[/SIZE]
 
It is possible to make a vacuum secondary 600cfm Holley work on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . If that's what you want to do, go ahead and do it. I would suggest using a 4bbl intake manifold rather than an adapter since the adapter will cause an unnecessary restriction in air flow while the 4bbl manifold will not have that restriction.

I suggest that a 600cfm is vacuum secondary only because the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l will never use all 600cfm. The secondaries will never fully open since the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l doesn't draw in enough air, even under heavy load at WOT. It's more than you need but the vacuum secondaries let you tune it to work just fine. After all, GM built 305ci V8s with a 795cfm Q-Jets at the factory. They just tuned them so the secondaries never fully opened and they ran just fine.

I'm going to suggest alternatives and why I would personally choose them over that 600cfm. Feel free to ignore my suggestions if you like. I don't want to come off like I'm trying to tell you what to do. I just want to give you information so you can make an informed choice. I won't be offended if you don't choose what I would choose.

One consideration against the 600cfm Holley is the off road performance. The basic 600cfm Holley is terrible off road, as is the Edelbrock. There are other, much better alternatives out there. But if you don't go off road, it's not an issue that you need to consider.

As an alternative to the 600cfm Holley, the 470cfm Holley Truck Avenger would be a really good choice. (There's no 570cfm TA and the 670cfm is way more than you need). It's great on and off road and still enough carburetor for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . I know several people who run that 470cfm on a 360 V8 in a full size Jeep and have plenty of power through the usable RPM band up to 4,500-5,000RPM. With a little tuning, it will give you all the performance you need in a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . And with the smaller primaries, it will be better on gas when you keep your foot out of it.

The other alternative, the Motorcraft carb comes in a couple of different CFM ratings, depending on which engines you get it from. I don't know the CFM ratings of each carb but I do remember that the body of the carburetor determines the flow and they have a casting number on the side of the carb body that tells you which is which. The Ford 302 or AMC 304 typically use the 1.08 casting. That's the one you want for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . The Ford 351 and AMC 360s typically used the 1.21 casting. It's harder to get that one tuned down for a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Possible, but more work. I've never looked into doing the swap myself but I know there is a lot of information about that swap out there.

Disclaimer: I'm quoting those casting numbers from memory. If I got them wrong, someone please correct me.

I suggest the 2150 for several reasons. First is that it's a good carburetor for both on and off road use. It's very consistent at all kind of angles where a lot of other carburetors will lean out or bog down. Second is that it doesn't need constant tuning like some other carburetors. I haven't touched the 2150 on my J10 pickup since last spring when I rebuilt it. I still drive that truck to work on a regular basis. It just starts and runs every time. I may get in there and adjust the choke a little when winter really sets in but only if it really needs it. Third is the altitude compensator built in to that 2150 really does work well. A friend of mine took his J10 pickup with the 2150 from near sea level in Texas to Colorado, over a 13,000+ foot pass, and back to Texas without ever having to touch his carburetor at all. It just kept running and running. The altitude never stopped him once. All of the guys with Holley and Edelbrock carburetors were having to stop and change jets every time they changed 2-3,000 feet in elevation. Fourth, you can swap it on to a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l without buying a new intake manifold.

You can even buy a remanufactured 2150 at most parts stores. Just be sure to check it over. The previous owner of my J10 was frustrated trying to tune in the reman carburetor on it. Turns out they didn't put in the gasket on the power valve and it was leaking fuel. Once I rebuilt it myself with all the gaskets and got it dialed in, it's been running great ever since.
 
Derf, if you don't mind me asking, what brand is the 2150? and is this a 2bbl carb? What other 4bbl options are there that are good off-road, I have heard there are carbs available specifically for off-road as well? I hope I'm not hijacking, but I am in a similar situation, but with a AMC 304 2bbl, going to a 4bbl mainly for ecomomy and to eliminate the emissions equipment on my CJ. Thanks

P.S. I googled it, and I see that the 2100 is similar if not thee carb on my AMC 304 , but mine is smashed and broken and would still like a 4bbl.
 

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