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74 CJ5- Cage Mod and Harness installation

74 CJ5- Cage Mod and Harness installation

es335

Active Jeeper
Posts
258
Thanks
1
Location
Cabot PA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5
Wrestled with how to install a harness system and still maintain relatively easy access to the rear seat. I ended up cutting a piece of .120 wall round tubing to fit across the floor of the tub-behind the front seat. A 45degree cut to each side, an upright welded to that- going straight up the inner fender, and, another 45 at the top with a tube reaching to the cage. Everything welded solidly in place. On top of the inner fender upright tube, I notched a piece of tubing and made it follow the angle of the rear seat (I do not have a bender..). Welded that in place and, made a top plate out of 1/4 angle welded to the tube. I used that as a plate to attach the top harness straps (note-I need to put roll bar pading on top of this in case someone would do a "head plant" forward-ouch!). 1/4 tabs welded to the bottom tubing to attach the waist belt to. Should work-seems real solid!
 
looks good.:cool:
 
Not sure how high you sit in the seat, the attachment points should be shoulder height. They look like they could be a little low.
If the height is right they look like they should do the job.:chug:
 
Yes! Struggled with that a bit. Here is what I researched, and, found out. According to NHRA specs-4" below shoulder height (on a Forum, not the actual rule book). Most resources stated 4-6" below Shoulders. Attach points at or above shoulder height should not be used. I am not the expert by any means. Miine are about 3-4" below shoulder height-to your point, depending on how you sit. My biggest concern were the lap belts that were in the jeep-bolted to a fiberglass floor, and, no shoulder harness. One good hit from the back or the front and you are tasting steering wheel and dash! Now everything-including the rear belts are connected to steel, and, to the frame.
 
Wow, bolted to the fiberglass floor, some PO's are dangerous.
Glad to see you got them bolted to some good old steel now.
 
Agree! To make matters worse, the roll bar was bolted to the fiberglass tub as well! Couble of weekends and some solid outriggers welded to the frame, Bushings through the tub.... much safer now! The bumpers are finally corrected too. The front has a 3" square, 1/8" wall tube spanning the frame and welded to each side of the frame. The bumper is WAY over kill-7/16" thick on the wide part of the channel, with 5/16 "ears". It bolts through the frame and the square tubing I welded in. That is why I optd not to put the extra supports on the "stinger" hoop. Seems plenty strong. If I do it over, I will use 3/16" channel. The rear bumper/cross member is outlined on another thread-super strong. I just did a road test-no rattles from the Spare Tire carrier...getting ready for the Butler Bantum Jeep event!
Also-just measured the harness height-it is about 3"" below the top of my shoulders-should be good there... Thanks for the input

Thanks for the feedback!
 
hey es335 you got any close up pics of you seat mounts? I bought some mercury tracer seats and with the wedge you sit too high and I need to fab new seat mounts.
 
I actually used the stock CJ mounts as a base, and, added steel angle to mount the seats to. Nothing fancy. I can take some if pics if you need some ideas....The seats are not high dollar-used the summit racing seats.
 
some pics/ideas would be great.
 
cool. look forward to it. :)
 
Johnny Reb. Here are the brackets I made, One piece of heavy wall 1" tubing, Angle on both sides, and, across the frong. You can make the whole bracket out of angle if you want. My seats bolt to the cross pieces, the braces are then bolted to the CJ frame....hope that helps. Note-ck your head clearance on the roll bar!!!! I had mine too high and had to make new brackets...thus the pair you see.
 
Nice looking install.
 

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