74 CJ5 Updates!!

74 CJ5 Updates!!

es335

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Location
Cabot PA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5
As promised-some pictures with a qualifying statment: I know I am not a good welder!!
I installed the Roll Cage kit this weekend. I used the kit from extreme custom fab-very nice kit, very helpful guy!!! I was comitted to tying the roll cage to the frame, here is how I did it:
* Front outriggers are 1/8" wall 2"x4" rectangular tubing.
* The front hoop floor plates are approximately 1/8" off of the floor supported via 4 1/8" wall-bushings that go between the outrigger and the floor plate. I drilled four holes per side, through the fiberglass tub so the body can flex and not crack. I used four grade 8, 3/8" bolts on each floorplate
* The rear tubes are welded to a 1/4 plate (looks like the factory plate).
* The Outriggers (two per side for the rear ) are 1/8" wall 1" square tubing welded to the frame and welded to the bottom of 2" heavy channel. On top of the channel are four bushings (sames as front). The tube plates sit about 1/8" above the rear wheel tubes, via the same bushings as the front. (The rear outriggers offer plenty of rear tire clearance). Four grade 8, 3/8" bolts tie the outrigger to the tube plate.
* Rear tub holes were oversized-same as the front.
* Two Summit Bucket seats with covers have replaced the worn factory buckets-they work great!!

* Also, I bolted on the Summit Racing 600 CFM carb. This is a GREAT Carb and it resulted in significant performance improvement. For around $200-you can't go wrong!!
 
Coming along nicely.

Gotta love those Intermediates!
 
Thats a kit that ties into the existing half roll bar, right?
 
That overhead bar is about where mine is, every once in a while I bump my head on it, good place for padding. Now would be a good time to weld in some grab handles for when you and your passengers get older.
 
Jason-yep, it's a kit

Torxhead, regarding the handles any feedback / or pictures would be appreciated. I am struggling with where to put them! One mistake I did make, the front windshield hoop COULD have been about 1" higher. I was afraid the top would not clear so I kept it about 1" below the windshield. Hindsight, probably would have made it level with the top of the windshield.
I did lower the seats about an inch and it made a big difference with head/helmet clearance. I may drop it 1.5 "...the seats were too high intially
 
Looking good. How did you cope the ends of your spreader bars for the intersections?
 
One end is pre -notched from the fabricator. The tubes are about 6" too long-to allow you plenty of room to cut them (I use a steel chop saw with a "stink wheel"). I chopped them so the un notched end went about 1/2 the width of the bar that I was notching to. I then notched the end I cut with a 4.5" hand grinder. The first one took about 30 minutes. The second one took about 6 mins (once you learn how/where to trim. it is not too bad). A tubing notcher would have been nice.....
 

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