alright here may be a tough one

alright here may be a tough one

squishiboy

Jeeper
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South MS
Vehicle(s)
1980 cj5 off frame atm no engine transmission or tranny atm. Just gettting started.
I have a 1980 CJ5 . I was told it ran when I purchased it, but I was unable to get it to run. Looked clean and was basically stock. I have since removed, well basically everything. I am doing an off frame restoration/conversion to a moderately hard core trail rig. Here be the question. The jeep has a stock passenger side diff. I have found a 2000 f350 running with a ford 351 and auto Transmission , sterling 14 rear and dana 60 front open knuckle driver side drop. How much trouble am i going to run into if I Purchase the ford and use the engine Transmission , tranny and both axles being it has a driver drop?
 
You'll never get that 351 & automatic (C6?) pinched into a CJ5 with a Transfer Case at the back end - not with a driveshaft longer than about six inches and the Transfer Case shifter behind the seat.
 
I have a 1980 CJ5 . I was told it ran when I purchased it, but I was unable to get it to run. Looked clean and was basically stock. I have since removed, well basically everything. I am doing an off frame restoration/conversion to a moderately hard core trail rig. Here be the question. The jeep has a stock passenger side diff. I have found a 2000 f350 running with a ford 351 and auto Transmission , sterling 14 rear and dana 60 front open knuckle driver side drop. How much trouble am i going to run into if I Purchase the ford and use the engine Transmission , tranny and both axles being it has a driver drop?
I can't swear to this just now but somehow I think you will end up with a rear shaft about 8" long, which won't give you a lot of articualtion. How does the transmision and rear axle measure when compared to the original, whatever they were?? The 5 is pretty short.
 
that is a huge driveline for a CJ5 .
 
You'll never get that 351 & automatic (C6?) pinched into a CJ5 with a Transfer Case at the back end - not with a driveshaft longer than about six inches and the Transfer Case shifter behind the seat.
Thanks for the reply. The wheel base on the jeep has been extended to about 105''. I should have the room to keep about a 20 ish inch drive shaft the back wheels alone are out around 12-14 inches. Now the case shifter may be something to worry about . Havent thought of that yet but tons of ppl put 350s with 350 trannys in a CJ5 and make it work there has to be some kit to move your lever forward.
 
Tons of people put 350/350s in CJ7s.

EDIT: Are you thinking of keeping anything at all original except the tub & the frame?
 
I guess 20 inches could work, with CV joints?

have you thought of putting the CJ body on the F150 frame?? as long as you going to stretch the body anyway.
 
A CV joint could help, long's you don't rotate the axle to look at it like so many folks do. If you do, when the axle articulates it wrecks the whole purpose of having a CV joint in there in the first place. Loaded or unloaded in any position other than the "level, at rest" position, you get combat between the flywheel & the axle.
 
I guess 20 inches could work, with CV joints?

have you thought of putting the CJ body on the F150 frame?? as long as you going to stretch the body anyway.
not really, wanted to use whatever I could of the original. It is seeming that more and more will not be useable as it goes. I wanted to keep the body as stock as possible. Not really looking into stretching the body just the wheelbase and everything underneath. I just wanted to know what it would entail swapping the diff to a driver drop is all. I have a dana 60hd rear and a 8bolt Dana 44 front now. They both have drum brakes. Since, the ford has all around discs it would save me a bit by using those axles instead of discing out the older ones. I was going with a 350/350/np205 combo anyways. If it isnt too much trouble I would just go with comparable ford stuff and do a driver drop to get that dana 60 front.
 
Well... any Jeep with a New Process Transfer Case had driver's drop.
 
you stretched the frame a foot but not the body?? where do the wheels live?:confused:
 
you stretched the frame a foot but not the body?? where do the wheels live?:confused:
yea, Ill post pics later if I can figure it out. I will have to do a competition cut on the rear of the tub to have room for the tires. Center of rear axle will sit about 6-10 inchs inside back of tub (havent put the tub back on yet to see exactly where) and front axle will sit just behind front grill about 3 inches i would say. Front fenders will have to be flattened (which is my biggest regret) I love the way the front fenders look on the cj. The actual fram was only extended around 5 inches or so with outhanging spring perches and such and reversed dakota springs it winds up somewhere around 104-106 depending on if i am going to move my rear inner hangers out more or not.
 
yea, Ill post pics later if I can figure it out. I will have to do a competition cut on the rear of the tub to have room for the tires. Center of rear axle will sit about 6-10 inchs inside back of tub (havent put the tub back on yet to see exactly where) and front axle will sit just behind front grill about 3 inches i would say. Front fenders will have to be flattened (which is my biggest regret) I love the way the front fenders look on the cj. The actual fram was only extended around 5 inches or so with outhanging spring perches and such and reversed dakota springs it winds up somewhere around 104-106 depending on if i am going to move my rear inner hangers out more or not.
that could work, but it is still awful short.:cool:
 
have you thought of putting the CJ body on the F150 frame?? as long as you going to stretch the body anyway.

Just cut the frame down and mout the body.:D
 

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