Aluminum Valve cover Leaking 6cyl

Aluminum Valve cover Leaking 6cyl

cj10

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1983 cj7 6cyl 4 speed
Anyone ever run into a Rugged Ridge brand new aluminum valve cover that wis warped? I have one now, and wonder if I should look for another brand, it;s a long drive to replace, I hate to do it again!

thanks!

1983 CJ7 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 6cyl 4 speed
 
How much is it warped? The stock gasket with RTV can seal quite a bit. Use a torque wrench and crossing pattern when torquing it down.
 
How much is it warped? The stock gasket with RTV can seal quite a bit. Use a torque wrench and crossing pattern when torquing it down.


we did, (been a tech since '79) we even used the thick cork gasket that came with it, it will not seal on the front right corner (intake side) to about 2" toward the rear, funny and I know better but I never even checked it before I installed it, got the part about 6:30 last night :(, now 1.5 hour drive each way to return, I wonder if I should bother with this same brand,

Another thing I wonder is why did they just not make a little lip so you could use the factory nuts down the intake side on this:( , and does anyone know if another manufacture does?

Thanks a million, sure would like to get this done today
 
Last edited:
Check out this thread

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/258-valve-cover-question-5314/

There were changes over the years, but I'm not sure exactly when they changed.

Good luck

i should had been more clear, I was wondering why the aftermarket aluminum valve cover did not come with the lips so you could still use the head bolt stud nuts to seal it, instead of only using the two bolts you need to tap on the intake side, and if anyone knowsz if any of the aftermarket alumium ones do come with the lips

thanks again!

Tom
 
i get what your saying, mine is the same way, i bolted down the pass side and went ahead and used the studs to hold down the driver side. it works although not ideal, you can make em work just don't torque em down real tight or your valve cover will split real quick. you can also tap the existing holes in the head (they should be there) and use the valve cover like it was designed to be.
 
i get what your saying, mine is the same way, i bolted down the pass side and went ahead and used the studs to hold down the driver side. it works although not ideal, you can make em work just don't torque em down real tight or your valve cover will split real quick. you can also tap the existing holes in the head (they should be there) and use the valve cover like it was designed to be.


this valve cover had no way to use the studs, there was zero lip there at all, anyhow, I didn;t get another one, I used another plastic one until i can get one that will use moire than two holes along the intake side side,

the rest of this jeep has turned into a project, but i hope it will end up being a fun little beater that is safe to drive, the radiator I bought locally turned into a whole new project in it self, I didn't want to wait for one (I know I know silly me) the rad tanks were so thick I could not use the stock fan or shroud, but it is a heck of a radiator, my 2400 dollar jeep is turning into a pricey toy that will get used once in a while! but things like wheel bearings, Ball joints, hubs, u-Joints brakes will all be new and right, even had to replace a outer front axle, hopefully I won't have to replace the front or rear end anytime soon

Again, thanks for the tips!
 

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