As if I didn't have enough to contend with...

[Turbogus]

Now that I'm on welfare, despite working 7 days a week (commission based for a bus company) 'Easy Bake' my daily driver was bashed and totalled. Of course the insurance company fell off the radar for the last two days, despite faxes of receipts, phone messages and unanswered emails, I think they're trying to make me sweat so to take their first offer.
'Black Betty' now seems to have burned a valve in No. 2.
With the help of a local shop I'm using one of thier bays to tear the cylinder head off. This is my first go on an AMC so I'm following the TSM meticulously. By now I've stripped the externals off; header, valve cover, rockers and pushrods keeping them in order with the help os a styrofoam box I poke the pushrods through and place the rockers on each one. I also got most of the head bolts with an impact wrench save for two stubborn ones that I'm goijng to try a breaker bar on. In a rushed bonehead moment~my best friend needed my help but the shop chief was staying late so I could work on my CJ, I forgot to remove the power steering pump bracket, sometime I can just FEEL those donkey ears spring up. At least my doing this work save me some cash on labor cost, I'm not looking forward to dealing with that oil baffle tray in the lifter valley again though.
Any tips or tricks would be welcome
More to come....

 

[CJim7]

Sorry for your luck....it seems to compound at the worst time

The Valley pan gaskets can be tricky. I've dealt with it too many times to call it enjoyable.
There are beveled punchouts on the pan that align themselves with holes on the heads. These are your placement guides and are designed to somewhat hold the gasket in place. However, that isn't always the case. I've had to slightly bend the gasket to get it to cooperate. contour it more to the valley and it will line up better.

Use the copper spray gasket on this thing.

The front and rear rubber seals never fit like they are supposed to. Use a liberal amount of silicone and you will avoid leaks.

Good luck

 

[Turbogus]

I can dig that, when I replaced the intake gasket a few years ago on account of leaks I bought some threaded studs and cut with my Dremel tool a groove for a screwdriver, this is what I used to align that wonderfully designed oil baffle.

 

[Posi]

I agree toss the rubber seals and build a china wall on either end.
Good luck going forward.

 

[Turbogus]

I've heard several folks using RTV but that gap on mine was handily closed by the Fel Pro gaskets that came with the oil baffle, depending on the head work I may have to go that route though.

 

[CJim7]

I've heard several folks using RTV but that gap on mine was handily closed by the Fel Pro gaskets that came with the oil baffle, depending on the head work I may have to go that route though.

I use the rubber gaskets but then silicone generously at the corners and where the top meets the manifold (and the lip of the block where the gasket sits). The rear always seems to have a gap that needs filled extensively.
I usually have to trim the front gasket ends slightly, they don't quite fit right.

I haven't had any leaks doing this.....yet

 

[Turbogus]

I think that follws the FelPro instructions and that's how I did it last time since the clearances were pretty tight.

 

[Posi]

You didn't mention if your intake is cast iron or aluminum. The directions for aluminum is to not use the rubber end seals.

 

[CJim7]

You didn't mention if your intake is cast iron or aluminum. The directions for aluminum is to not use the rubber end seals.

Maybe that's why I always have to trim mine

 

[Turbogus]

Mine IS aluminum, so I may go the wall route. Got the head off and pulled the No. 2 intake, there was carbon built up on the stem and the surface of the valve is preventing a complete seal. Next stop, the machine shop.

 

[Posi]

Mine IS aluminum, so I may go the wall route.

I find it best to dry fit, and measure the gap before building the wall. Last thing you want is a wall not high enough, or cleaning up a mess being too tall.

 

[Turbogus]

Great idea that, THANKS!

 

[Turbogus]

Got the head pulled off, one of the mechanics in the next bay advised that I should've reverse removed the head bolts torque wise, but as it was there were three stubborn bolts that I had to use a different impact wrench on to finally break them loose. Once the head was off we found that the No. 2 intake was partially open on account of a large amount of carbon buildup on the valve stem. This is the reson for the occasional 'motor spit' I've remarked on and for the carb fire. Fuel was pushed through the open intake valve on the compression stroke and ignited by the spark plug with fuel vapor in the intake and carburator flow reversed. While we were able to polish the carbon off the valve surface had deformed enough to prevent a complete seal. Sent it off to a head shop (no, even though I'm in Oregon, not that kind) to do the single valve. As much as I'd like to do a complete job sadly, my welfare and work income is just not enough.
More to come...