Beware of Cheap Throwout Bearings!!!

Beware of Cheap Throwout Bearings!!!

Rescue Diver

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Kansas City
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
When I first bought my Pile O' Parts last year, it came with a new in the box throwout bearing. I forget what brand it was, but it had a lot of plastic in it and looked somewhat cheap. I had so many things to buy for my frame off rebuild that I decided to go ahead and use the cheap looking new bearing. After all, it was brand new right?

It failed yesterday, but not in the normal way. Throwout bearings usually start making noise long before they ever go out. Mine just fell apart with no warning! What' worse, it grinded a deep ridge in the tube of the front bearing retainer that it rides on! I bought a new all steel NATIONAL bearing at O'Reilly this aftenoon for $43, but by the time I found the damage to the bearing retainer, it was too late to call around looking for a replacement today. If I can't find one tomorrow in town, I'll have to mail order one from xtreemterrain.com and wait several days for delivery while my CJ sits in the garage. I'm really glad I still have my Tahoe as a spare vehicle because it's too rainy this week to ride the bike.
 

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the bearing seized and spun the inner slide?
bummer!!
I have always hated throw out bearings, there is something basically wrong with a $10 expendable part that you have to remove 1/2 of the drive train to replace. It's like putting spark plugs under the exhaust manifold.:mad:

good luck finding a replacement nose.:cool:
 
Bummer :mad: I guess it just goes to show, cheep is never a good thing
 
A & Reds Transmission parts store is closed today, and since I don't even know if they have the part, I went ahead and ordered one from ebay for $39 with free shipping and it even comes with the gasket. The seller's feedback is really good with people saying shipping is really fast. With luck I can put it back together Wednesday.

To make matters worse, the damn pin that holds the shifter in position fell down in the tranny, so I had to drain it and remove the side cover to retrieve it.

I really wish I'd followed my instincts and not used that new POS bearing that came with my project when I bought it.

My work is done for the day. It's time for a beverage! :chug:
 
Shame about the failure of the bearing.

The days of cheap replacement parts are gone, you hit it right mate. Spend the extra ten bucks for quality parts.

What is your time worth ? The figures as part of the repair cost as well.
 
:mad:
 

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Looks like the CJ will be down until this weekend. The bearing retainer isn't scheduled for delivery until Friday. :rolleyes:
 
The part was delivered yesterday. I busted my arse this morning getting that heavy arse T-18 and Dana 20 off the ground and bolted up to the engine. She's back on the road and the clutch feels good! :D
 
Nicely done....now hit 64 East tomorrow morning, pop through the HRBT and come figure out my damn clutch!!!

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
Good to hear the clutch is tight and the Jeep rolling again!! Well done mate
 
Good to hear the clutch is tight and the Jeep rolling again!! Well done mate
Thanks! I'm still amazed I was able to get that heavy cast iron T-18 tranny and Transfer Case up in place with a regular floor jack and ratchet straps. I've installed countless trannies from underneath in the past, but this was by far the heaviest and most awkward to work with, and I did it by myself. When I originally built the CJ, I assembled the engine, tranny, and Transfer Case before installing them as one unit onto the bare frame using a come along hoist from above.

I started by attaching four ratchet straps, one from each corner of the tranny/Transfer Case combo to the frame near the wheels. Then I rocked the front of the tranny and Transfer Case up off the floor and put a board under it and tightened the straps. Then I rocked the rear up and put a board under it and tightened the straps again. I kept repeating this process, rasing each end a little more at a time while tightening the straps until I had the rig hanging high enough to put the floor jack underneath it. Then I slowly raised it with the jack while tightening the straps until I had it in line with the bell housing and clutch. I then repeatedly loosened the rear staps and tightened the front a little at a time to move the tranny forward into the clutch assembly so I could get the bolts started.

I've always said give me some ratchet straps or a come along winch and I can move the world! :D

If that method hadn't worked, my next move would have been to remove the convertible top, fold the windshield down, remove the dash pad, and hoist the tranny up through the shifter hole in the floor board using my come along winch and the eye bolt in the I-Beam in my garage ceiling.
 

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