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brake residual valve

brake residual valve

IOPort51

NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)

2006 Toyota Tacoma
Can anyone tell me exactly where the residual valve is in a 77 CJ5 ??

different opinions on the master cylinder and the proportioning valve.
:cool:
 
:confused: I have never heard of a residual valve.
 
It's purpose is to keep 10# of pressure on the rear drums to overcome spring pressure so that you do not have to pump the rear brakes up before the system can stop the car.

When converting to a disk/disk system it is not needed and will result in the rear disks dragging all the time.:cool:

so the residual valve needs to be removed when the conversion is made. I have heard of it being part of the master cylinder and in some places the proportioning valve is referred to as the combination valve because it is both proportioning and residual control.

so if the prop. valve is replaced with a disk/disk valve does that remove the residual valve from the system??:confused:
 
thats in the master cylinder. take the lines out and look where they thread in
 
:dung: I was kind of hoping it was in the prop valve that I am going to have to replace.:(

anyway thanks a bunch.:beer:

thats in the master cylinder. take the lines out and look where they thread in
 
You will have to pull the tube seats out with a screw, carefully. Then use a needle nose pliers to pull the rubber residual valve, then reinsert the tube seat. I used a Stainless Steel Brake Corporation adjustable proportioning valve. It's a lot better than the stock on. I mounted it beside the master cylinder. I also changed to a Navaho brake booster and master cylinder. You can also see in the picture, my Mico brake park brake, it says 12 volt on the side of it. I'm using SSBC disc brake conversion, I ran it with the stock booster and master cylinder for awhile before upgrading everything. I needed more WHOA.
 
Last edited:
OUUUUUU_AHHHHHHHHH :notworthy: very classy work.

Do I need an adjustable PV or can I use a disk/disk??




You will have to pull the tube seats out with a screw, carefully. Then use a needle nose pliers to pull the rubber residual valve, then reinsert the tube seat. I used a Stainless Steel Brake Corporation adjustable proportioning valve. It's a lot better than the stock on. I mounted it beside the master cylinder. I also changed to a Navaho brake booster and master cylinder. You can also see in the picture, my Mico brake park brake, it says 12 volt on the side of it. I'm using SSBC disc brake conversion, I ran it with the stock booster and master cylinder for awhile before upgrading everything. I needed more WHOA.
 
Do I need an adjustable PV or can I use a disk/disk??[/QUOTE]


I would think you can use a disk/disk proportioning valve. The adjustable one allows you to adjust front to rear bias. The non adjustable is factory set for bias.
 
A residual valve is very important to your brake system if you have drums
whit it does is leaves a few pound pressure in the lines so the slave cylinder does not collapse and start leaking.
it is usually found in the output of the master cylinder, so if you are trying to put disk in You need to take them out.
a Funny thing is, if you a using a say ford truck master cylinder and not using it in the ford you are specking (gm or dodge also) you need to order the valve you want in the front or back area.
I learned all thei the hard way converting over to 4 disc on my 67, I at first started with disc up front and learned about check valves (back pressure) and then hen I did the disc in back found out why. that is also when I learned about adjustable proportioning valves.
good luck
 

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