CJ fiberglass body swap

[kjkorina]

So I'm in the middle (or thereabouts) of doing my swap to a fiberglass body. I've been doing plenty of reading online regarding doing the swap but wanted to turn to you guys to see if anyone had any specific things to look out for if they have done this swap before.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Old Dog]

measure twice cut once.
Not sure what kinda info you need.
You need to fill in you vehical profile so we know what you have.

 

[Kane]

Well, for generic ideas here is what I have run into.

-You need good grounding points for everything electrical. Big grounding straps in several spots.
-If you have a double wall tub the stock emergency brake will have issues for mounting. Also the bestop supertop track system will be hard to install.
-On some glass tubs the body mounts will not line up. On my 5 they were fine but the 8 several of them were not lined up to the factory locations.
-Some tubs may require you run a 1 inch body lift. My shell valley tub needed it.
-Some tubs will not accept a hardtop or they at least wil not fit well due to the tub being slightly skinnier than a stock metal one.
-It would be a good idea to use some plating between the body mount and the floor of the tub for added support.
-If you want more support for the pedals and steering, you can gut out the old support structure from the metals tubs firewall and they drill some holes to bolt it in place on your glass tub. This will also provide all the mount holes locations to cut. It also provides another grounding point.
- For your window frame hinges, make some threaded plates for the back side instead of bolts and washers. Make them as big as you can for support. They will keep the bolts tight and provided more support which that section needs.
- When you are mounting the window frame and getting those holes marked make sure your frame to body seal is compressed. If not you will leak forever. Also pay attention to the window angle otherwise the doors will not line up and neither will your top.

Thats all I have for now. Hope it helps.
-

 

[kjkorina]

Well, for generic ideas here is what I have run into.

-You need good grounding points for everything electrical. Big grounding straps in several spots.
-If you have a double wall tub the stock emergency brake will have issues for mounting. Also the bestop supertop track system will be hard to install.
-On some glass tubs the body mounts will not line up. On my 5 they were fine but the 8 several of them were not lined up to the factory locations.
-Some tubs may require you run a 1 inch body lift. My shell valley tub needed it.
-Some tubs will not accept a hardtop or they at least wil not fit well due to the tub being slightly skinnier than a stock metal one.
-It would be a good idea to use some plating between the body mount and the floor of the tub for added support.
-If you want more support for the pedals and steering, you can gut out the old support structure from the metals tubs firewall and they drill some holes to bolt it in place on your glass tub. This will also provide all the mount holes locations to cut. It also provides another grounding point.
- For your window frame hinges, make some threaded plates for the back side instead of bolts and washers. Make them as big as you can for support. They will keep the bolts tight and provided more support which that section needs.
- When you are mounting the window frame and getting those holes marked make sure your frame to body seal is compressed. If not you will leak forever. Also pay attention to the window angle otherwise the doors will not line up and neither will your top.

Thats all I have for now. Hope it helps.
-

Thanks that's what I'm looking for! Stuff I may not have thought of.

 

[7D8CJ]

Make sure you have a good solid groud cable from the battery to the frame. Then you gound wire looms right to the frame.

 

[oldguy]

I used terminal blocks. One is inside on the firewall below and to the right of the fuse block and the second one is right behind the engine. . I got a picture of the one in the engine bay, you can make out a couple of yellow connector ends - excuse the fuzzy photo.

I ran a number 8 wire to each direct from the battery and then had terminals to ground a dozen points both inside and outside of the tub. Worked great for me. If you're interested I can uncover the Jeep and get a couple more pictures. Dave

 

[Kane]

I just remembered something else. On my shellvalley tub the floor is pretty thick and that thickness was in the cab so my seats ended up one inch higher than stock. I had to shorten both of my seat mounts. My rollbarnsit higher as well but the top still clears it

 

[Old Dog]

I just remembered something else. On my shellvalley tub the floor is pretty thick and that thickness was in the cab so my seats ended up one inch higher than stock. I had to shorten both of my seat mounts. My rollbarnsit higher as well but the top still clears it

that reminds me, my AJ's body was thicker everywhere so none of the factory fasteners were the right lenght.

 

[kjkorina]

So from what I'm seeing, you can cut the body spacers to whatever height you want. Is there a typical height that you guys who have done the swap went with?

 

[Jinx]

I have heard that the master cylinder needs to be strengthened up because the firewall on a fiberglass tub is not strong enough for the weight and over time it will vibrate so much that it will break. I was told to cut the beefed up area around the master cylinder from my metal tub and bolt it on the fiberglass tub for added strength....

 

[7D8CJ]

I have heard that the master cylinder needs to be strengthened up because the firewall on a fiberglass tub is not strong enough for the weight and over time it will vibrate so much that it will break. I was told to cut the beefed up area around the master cylinder from my metal tub and bolt it on the fiberglass tub for added strength....

Here's what my Kentrol tub looks like