Clutch will not let go????

[90consuela]

Background Story: I purchased my 76 CJ7 from a local dealer. When he agreed to let me take it for a test drive. I could tell he was a little leary. I took off on a ride that I would say was a little bit more than dangerous (no brakes, severe body roll, etc.), but I was bound and determined to have a CJ and he only wanted $1500 bucks...

Now before I completely dissected the entire body and made it undriveable. When I would take off from a light I would have to let the clutch pretty much all the way out and then give it some fuel and it would take off. It sounded like the clutch was engaged for like a tenth of a mile before it disengaged. I talked to the dealership mechanic and he said that adjusting it wouldn't change anything and that I would have to change the clutch. Thanks for the help and the totally sweet forum!!!

 

[90consuela]

Ok so I just thought that I would add this little bit in here....I have a np435 w/ tcase mated out of a 90 Ramcharger...can you see where my heads at? If I have to buy all the clutch goodies would it be smarter to try and find a bellhousing to mount up to my AMC 304 or just let it be? (I have everything for the Transmission ...pedal assy, hyd cylinder)

 

[JR74CJ5]

Well now that would be a little more costly for you than just the clutch componants. The bell housing adapter would be the most expensive single thing to do, but the little stuff would add up too..

I'd do it though!

Now, it is entirely possible that it will be just an adjustment. sounds like the linkage is adjusted way to far tightly. You should have 1" of freeplay at the top of the pedal before clutch pedal starts to do anything.

I would try that first. But if you have everything apart, and want that low crawl gear, plan everything out, and get er done



~ JR

 

[90consuela]

Yeah I might try to just adjust it first (to get by) then later on when the money allows I can dive in to the 4 spd. Thanks for your help JR74CJ5!!!

 

[Turbogus]

Addressing further potential issues I've had with the clutch linkage on 'Betty' I purchased and installed this M class clutch rod kit while she was deadlined on unrelated issues, ineeping with my idiom of when something fails or breas I replace it with better than OE.
An important point of the installation of the upper rod is the correct end to bellcrank and roll angle of the rods not mentioned in the instructions. While in most pictures (including the exploded view in the instructions) it appeared as though the two bends are centered when in fact they are not. The short end goes to the pedal, the long end goes to the bellcrank.
Further, it is crucial to achieve the correct roll angle to avoid interference the the brake pedal arm.
After tuning in this linkage, I must say it's very smooth and judging by the ball joints and rods, seems very substantial. One mod I did to this was to add an acorn nut to the end of the adustment rod, I just didn't like the idea of threads cutting into the throwout arm.​

 

[90consuela]

Addressing further potential issues I've had with the clutch linkage on 'Betty' I purchased and installed this M class clutch rod kit while she was deadlined on unrelated issues, ineeping with my idiom of when something fails or breas I replace it with better than OE.
An important point of the installation of the upper rod is the correct end to bellcrank and roll angle of the rods not mentioned in the instructions. While in most pictures (including the exploded view in the instructions) it appeared as though the two bends are centered when in fact they are not. The short end goes to the pedal, the long end goes to the bellcrank.
Further, it is crucial to achieve the correct roll angle to avoid interference the the brake pedal arm.
After tuning in this linkage, I must say it's very smooth and judging by the ball joints and rods, seems very substantial. One mod I did to this was to add an acorn nut to the end of the adustment rod, I just didn't like the idea of threads cutting into the throwout arm.​

I'm liking that linkage a lot more than the stock...I will be sure and add that to the upgrades list (becoming longer everyday).

 

[Turbogus]

First go I installed this upside down and it was getting bound up on the firewall. Inverting it correctly helped but I hogged out the firewall hole anyway. It's been smooth ever since.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I'm liking that linkage a lot more than the stock...I will be sure and add that to the upgrades list (becoming longer everyday).

It does right??? This list is now extending to out of my head and actually on a white board in the "man-Cave"



~ JR

 

[Turbogus]

....and those ball and socket joints ought to last for many years to come.

 

[90consuela]

First go I installed this upside down and it was getting bound up on the firewall. Inverting it correctly helped but I hogged out the firewall hole anyway. It's been smooth ever since.

Right on....thank you much

 

[90consuela]

It does right??? This list is now extending to out of my head and actually on a white board in the "man-Cave"



~ JR

Ha Ha yeah thank god my white board is still empty!!!

 

[BusaDave9]

When I would take off from a light I would have to let the clutch pretty much all the way out and then give it some fuel and it would take off. It sounded like the clutch was engaged for like a tenth of a mile before it disengaged. I talked to the dealership mechanic and he said that adjusting it wouldn't change anything and that I would have to change the clutch.

It's hard to diagnose problems over the internet. I am thinking the clutch is slipping after you drive a while. The dealership mechanic said "adjusting it wouldn't change anything". He has a better handle on this than those of us on the internet. I don't think the linkage will fix your problem. I think you need a new clutch.

I have a np435 w/ tcase mated out of a 90 Ramcharger..

Now that is one excellent Transmission ! Very heavy duty.
Now there were 2 different versions found in Dodges. You may, or may not have the version with the very low granny low first.
Does that Dodge TCase have the front output on the passenger or driver side? If it's on the passenger side I would install the NP435 and TCase in your CJ. You will need the lengths of the drive shafts modified.
Check out this web page about the NP435 and call up Novak about getting that drivetrain in your CJ. The New Process 435 Transmission - Novak Conversions

 

[90consuela]

Now that is one excellent Transmission ! Very heavy duty.
Now there were 2 different versions found in Dodges. You may, or may not have the version with the very low granny low first.
Does that Dodge TCase have the front output on the passenger or driver side? If it's on the passenger side I would install the NP435 and TCase in your CJ. You will need the lengths of the drive shafts modified.
Check out this web page about the NP435 and call up Novak about getting that drivetrain in your CJ. The New Process 435 Transmission - Novak Conversions

I emailed Novak....Ha ha....I actually already had that website in my favorites, and I just used it for reference mostly. Thanks for reminding me about it. I gave them the low down so they will get back to me. I will be sure to post what info they give. Thanks for the help!!!!

 

[90consuela]

Ok so I emailed novak....offered a Transfer Case adapter....$524. Sheesh looks like I will just add that to the white board....ha ha

 

[BusaDave9]

Ok so I emailed novak....offered a Transfer Case adapter.

Transfer Case adapter?
What's wrong with the Dodge Transfer Case ? Is the front output on the driver side?
mating the NP435 to your engine shouldn't be too hard. If the dodge TCase (do you know the model?) has the output on the right that would be your easiest option.

 

[Turbogus]

Ok so I emailed novak....offered a Transfer Case adapter....$524. Sheesh looks like I will just add that to the white board....ha ha

Sorry to hear, the expense of Novak's, even though they offer stellar gear is what keeping me from converting 'Black Betty' to a T-18 Transmission .

 

[90consuela]

Transfer Case adapter?
What's wrong with the Dodge Transfer Case ? Is the front output on the driver side?
mating the NP435 to your engine shouldn't be too hard. If the dodge TCase (do you know the model?) has the output on the right that would be your easiest option.

The Transfer Case output is on the passenger side. I don't understand either.....I also put in all the required info as per their instructions. And I got emailed back with a one sentence response just giving me the link to the said adapted. I was a bit disappointed.

 

[BusaDave9]

The Transfer Case output is on the passenger side. I don't understand either.....I also put in all the required info as per their instructions. And I got emailed back with a one sentence response just giving me the link to the said adapted. I was a bit disappointed.

They are selling you a Transmission adapter to mate to your TCase. Call them back. You need to adapt the Transmission to your engine. That should be simple.
If the TCase output is on the passenger side I would use the dodge drivetrain on your jeep. Mating it to your engine is easy. Having the driveshaft lengths modified shouldn't cost much.
The TCase linkage would come up through the floor and would need a little modification to the floor and a shift boot.

EDIT: you may have already read the link I posted above. Novak says:

AMC Jeep
The Ford NP435 is also an excellent candidate for AMC Jeep bellhousings made from 1976 to 1986 that were married to the T-150 , T-18 and T-176 transmissions, or otherwise have an available bellhousing bolt pattern of 8-1/2" wide by 6-5/16" tall. They are readily compatible with these engines and bellhousings, and need only a custom pilot bushing. For more details, see Adapting Ford Transmissions to AMC Bellhousings for details.

 

[90consuela]

"The bellhousing bolt pattern for the Ford NP435 and Ford T18 & T19 is the same as the T150 and the T176 transmissions.....Conventiently, 1976-1979 CJ T-150 and T-18 Transmission clutch discs and pressure plates are already perfectly compatible with Ford input shafts and bearing retainers. The installer may also use the same clutch release bearing and mechanical linkage as these Jeeps."
-Novak

It seems like all I need to do is get my hands on a ford bellhousing and once everything gets mocked up measure for driveshaft mods.

-----am I way off base????-----

 

[BusaDave9]

I think all you need to do is drill and tap your jeep bellhousing.
I used to have a '82 CJ7 that I installed a Ford T-18 into.
The when I put the Transmission up against the bellhousing it obvious how they fit together but I had to drill and tap the bellhousing to bolt them together. It was easy. Now I had a T-5 Transmission (getting removed) and a '82 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .


As for the clutch I called up the guys at Centerfoce to get what I needed. The Ford tranny had a different diameter input shaft with a different number of splines so I ended up with a friction plate intended for a Ford and a pressure plate intended for a Jeep.

EDIT: I'm confused by your last post. Are we going to a ford or a dodge tranny?