Custom drive shafts?

Custom drive shafts?

derf

Senior Jeeper
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7 - 5.3/4L60E/Atlas4spd/D44/9" - In Progress
1984 GW - 360/TF727/NP229/D44/M23 - NP242 swap in progress
1986 J10 - 360/TF727/NP208/D44/D60 - 700R4 upgrade in the works
So I'm actually getting close to the point where I can measure for drive shafts. I might even have the engine/Transmission /Transfer Case in for a first test fit this weekend.

My entire drivetrain is custom. Engine, Transmission , Transfer Case , axles. Even my wheelbase is not stock. So I know there's no way a stock application is going to work for me.

Where is a good place to get custom drive shafts made? I've heard Tom Woods makes a good one. Any other suggestions?
 
wouldn't you want to wait till the body is on, to allow for its weight also?V
Any driveshaft shop can make a nice shaft for ya.
Are you going to go with a CV shaft in the rear? or upgrading the U-joints to a larger size while you are there?
 
Go to Tom Wood's Custom drive shafts.
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
I once had a drive shaft repaired by a local drive shaft shop. Later I had Tom Wood make a custom shaft for me. The Tom Wood Shaft cost less and was much better (stronger) than stock.

Edit: What I mean to say is to repair the drive shaft cost me much more than a new Tom Woods Shaft.
I think its a no brainer.

I was thinking Tom Woods would probably be where I go but I was just checking to see if there was anyone else.
 
I would advise that you do not make the u joint stronger. It's kind of like a fuse keeps the wiring harness from bursting into flames. the u joint breaks before the axle, yoke, drive shaft, output shaft etc.
If something is going to break, make it something inexpensive and easy to replace.:cool:
 
I had this one repaired by a local shop after I blew the original shaft up during a race...cost about $50 and a trip to the machine shop, then the driveshaft shop.

muddrags008.png
this is during transport to the driveshaft shop, notice the thickness of the tube! It had to be custom machined to work. The machinist laughed at me when I told him I wanted a 1/2" thick tube in there, then he comes up with this DOM tube to whittle on...
CjDriveshaft004.png
 
I would advise that you do not make the u joint stronger. It's kind of like a fuse keeps the wiring harness from bursting into flames. the u joint breaks before the axle, yoke, drive shaft, output shaft etc.
If something is going to break, make it something inexpensive and easy to replace.:cool:

Exactly. An SM465 feeding 35 splines into an Atlas which is driving a 9" with a Currie nodular housing and a 35 spline spool needs a fuse. I'm going to run a stock 1310 u-joint to be that fuse. I'll keep several spares just in case.
 
Exactly. An SM465 feeding 35 splines into an Atlas which is driving a 9" with a Currie nodular housing and a 35 spline spool needs a fuse. I'm going to run a stock 1310 u-joint to be that fuse. I'll keep several spares just in case.

Good plan! :chug:
 
after looking at littles shaft, the joints may not be a week point after all.:cool:

the post said your drive line was not stock, it didn't say you were driving a lunar rover.:D
 
The problem though, is when the u-joint breaks, it offten takes the ears off the yoke. IMO go 1350's if you can.


Oh yea almost forgot. I just got a new front drive shaft from Tom Woods a few days ago and the workman ship looks good.
 
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Tom Woods is the place to go. He knows what works and what doesn't. He's a wheeler, not just a shop. It's his service that's the real deal. Give them a call to discuss your needs. I can't say enough good stuff about him.

Shafts are the least of my worries . . . now
 

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