dually wrangler, what do you think?

dually wrangler, what do you think?

wrangler rider

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Vehicle(s)
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
I have a 95 wrangler (not a cj but close)
I'm tired of getting stuck andI read that a locker will snap my stock 4.10 axle. Since a locker is $340 and a axle and seal and other things it breaks will be like $250 i think it would be a waste to keep the back end stock.
I'm a little crazy and way out of control so forget a Dana 40 and Dana 50 I'm going Dually axle.
I found a Dana 70 and a chevy 14 bolt for $375 deliverd thats the whole axle and brakes working there $375 each, normaly I'd do the Dana but the 14 bolts locker will only cost $300 and te Dana's locker will coat $700 so I think it would be a waste to buy the Dana. Since it wont be used for hauling but maby a trailor and the Fords that decide to test the bog.
So my questions:
What do you think of a dually jeep?
Am I messing up getting the chevy axle instead of the Dana?
How hard do you think it will be for the beat up 4 banger and grinding tranny to turn it?
Has this ever been done before? (I want to claim it as the first so I want to check first)
And any words of wisdome?
Thanks yall
P.S. This is my daily driver sometimes
 
Dunno about the wrangler but the CJs came with a dana 70 and dually tires.
I doubt the 4 banger will be able to turn that many tires in anything but pavement, but thats just a guess.
not to mention there will be no way that the rear tires are under the fenders enough to be street legal.
 
dang sounds like a bad stock 4x4 it has alot of torque for what it is and what more is it pushing just like 100 or so pounds and luckily te gear ratio is just .01 off of stock
and if the cops bother me I'll get a set of custom fenders made of sheet metal but I doubt theyll bother me
thanks for the advice
 
unless your going to cut those full-size axles down to fit, they are going to stick out a bunch. Google full size axle swap and do a bunch of reading. Then feel free to ask any ?? you still have. Its not just installing a pair of axles, there is a bunch of other things to consider.
 
wow nice cj
and its acually not full size I was told its out of a crew cab or something anyways its not as wide as a normal full width axle in a dually truck Im hoping some of the inner wheel will be under the body or atleast close to it
 
then its a cab and chassis axle. they are 11 inches narrower than a normal dually truck axle. Still very wide for a wrangler. here is a pic of a C&C axle under a old truck of mine. Notice how its still outside the cab width even with small-ish tires on it.

Are you planning to use just the rear axle or both the front and rear?

IMG_0030.jpg
 
currently only the back the ratios are so close i dont need a front axle
and how far out do you think theyll stick?
 
I have a 95 wrangler (not a cj but close)
I'm tired of getting stuck andI read that a locker will snap my stock 4.10 axle. Since a locker is $340 and a axle and seal and other things it breaks will be like $250 i think it would be a waste to keep the back end stock.
I'm a little crazy and way out of control so forget a Dana 40 and Dana 50 I'm going Dually axle.
I found a Dana 70 and a chevy 14 bolt for $375 deliverd thats the whole axle and brakes working there $375 each, normaly I'd do the Dana but the 14 bolts locker will only cost $300 and te Dana's locker will coat $700 so I think it would be a waste to buy the Dana. Since it wont be used for hauling but maby a trailor and the Fords that decide to test the bog.
So my questions:
What do you think of a dually jeep?
Am I messing up getting the chevy axle instead of the Dana?
How hard do you think it will be for the beat up 4 banger and grinding tranny to turn it?
Has this ever been done before? (I want to claim it as the first so I want to check first)
And any words of wisdome?
Thanks yall
P.S. This is my daily driver sometimes
If I'm not mistaken, the 14 bolt hangs lower than the Dana 70. Then there is the point that Duals are not known for there off road prowess, with mud & rocks getting caught up between the tires. Duals are generally use to increase carrying capacity. For example that backhole in the ad. As far as the tires sticking outside the fenders, I would check your local DMV regs.. In Texas it's not a issue.:D
 
The 14 is a giant axle and the 60 is almost as big, if you are not going to run 40's they will both be giant anchors off road.
As for as duals go if that idea worked you would see it being done at the mud pits, but you don't so it must not work.
 
thanks yall, i seeit as the more traction the better, and if it doesnt work i can always chop the ends off the nuts and use the axle as a swr
but i thought about it today and i think im going to put this projecton the back burner and focus my cash flow right now on my 69 charger and see if i can get that driving by the end of summer
thanks again yall have been a big help
 
thanks yall, i seeit as the more traction the better, and if it doesnt work i can always chop the ends off the nuts and use the axle as a swr
but i thought about it today and i think im going to put this projecton the back burner and focus my cash flow right now on my 69 charger and see if i can get that driving by the end of summer
thanks again yall have been a big help

If you do decide to do that...this is how you do it.\
Just remove the dually wheels. There is a roll pin installed on the hub to locate the dually wheel valve stems. Remove it and find some acorn lug nuts, and reinstall the wheels. Its that easy if you dont mind long lug studs.
I used to change my F-350 to single wheels during the winter months to help with traction on snow and ice. The dual tires provide less traction than a single 33x12.50 traction tire.
 
thanks how does that work? more rubber = less traction
 
Its called contact pressure.
2 tires at 8 inches wide > 1 tire at 12.5 inches.
Puts less pressure on the ground per LB of vehicle weight.
Same principal as putting on snowshoes to walk on snow. More area to spread your weight over the surface, keeping you from falling thru the snow.
Works with trucks, too. Except it works in reverse.
 
now THERE is some awesome iron
 
thanks yall, i seeit as the more traction the better, and if it doesnt work i can always chop the ends off the nuts and use the axle as a swr
but i thought about it today and i think im going to put this projecton the back burner and focus my cash flow right now on my 69 charger and see if i can get that driving by the end of summer
thanks again yall have been a big help
More rubber more traction? Check these out.View attachment 718

View attachment 719

View attachment 720
 

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