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found some rot, need advise!!

found some rot, need advise!!
Dan86CJ7

Dan86CJ7

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Vehicle(s)
1986 cj7 258(rebuilt motor/comp cam/weber32/36) T5 300 tcase d30 front(locker/4:10s)
AMC20(locker/4:10s),4"lift,33"s
so just looking for some exper. advise on how to attack my issue. Last night i was under my jeep eyeing stuff since wheelin last. And found a rot hole/area in my tub. the plate that the front seat belt bolts to is coming apart andi can see in to the tub, there seams to be a seam there? also the roll bar bolts in this aera. Is this offered as a replacement panel? or is the a better way? bug the roll bar? i do have a decent mig welder but am learning. Any info would be great
 
We kind of need some pictures for this but if it is the area I am thinking it is, it is 20 ga steel. I would pick up a piece or two and see how your welding technique adapts to thin sheet metal. If it is just a flat sheet, as I picture it I would consider a patch panel of your own creation. cut the seat belt mount off and put it in the right position.
 
If it's just the floor cut it out and repair. Jeep used 18g but I would use 16g. If the rollbar mounting pad is toast replace it with 1/8".
 
would the easiest be to buy the replacement floor panel and use what i need? or just find some steel...im good with the mechanical end but this i think is gonna be a test.. its hard to see whith everything in the way.
 
Easiest way would be to buy a 2x2' piece at a big box store. You could also use most any piece of sheet metal, I've used car hoods, washing machine, file cabinets etc. However, I typically buy a 4'x8' sheet of 16g I always have a use for it. Your welcome to swing by and I'll give you want you need.

As for cutting your work piece I use a jig saw with metal cutting blade.
 
the guy in my body shop said the same, got a metal dumpster full of crash parts, hoods,doors ect. just didnt know if a stamped peice would be easier for a noob to deal with
 
your right, that is going to need a bit more than a piece of sheet metal.:cool:
 
i think so too, i think my noobness is just confusing me as to how the outer and inner are mated? And how to attack that whole corner and do it correctly.
 
Dan86CJ7 said:
the guy in my body shop said the same, got a metal dumpster full of crash parts, hoods,doors ect.
Click to expand...
I'd stay away from any newer car body parts their too thin.
 
IOPort51 said:
Classic Enterprises - Restoration, Reproduction Parts for Studebaker, Jeep & Ford


this is what I was trying to find, they will have the panels. and the related support members. You may be able to just cut the spot welds and use the mig to plug weld the new panel into place.:D

Just as general information I am doing some work on the rear fender wells on my 77 CJ5 and the sheet metal mikes out to 20 ga.
Click to expand...


I still say it mikes out to 20 ga. but if they are making the replacement parts in "original 18 ga.", Who am I to argue. just makes it marginally easier to weld.:cool:
 
cool, they deff have a better selection of panels,ect...maybe ill try and open it up and get some better pictures.
 
Your doing some rust repair, possibly your good test piece has thinned after 37 years. I believe most auto bodies coming off the factory line were 18g from the 70s down, truck beds were typically 16g, all the newer stuff is 20g.
 
I just finished repairing mine and it was all 18 ga. I am a novice welder and after practicing on some scraps I went to it and it was pretty easy. Just a bunch of trimming and fitting till I had a proper fit. I used a side grinder with a cuttoff wheel and a body saw. You just have to be careful not to cut through the cross members. You can use a spot weld cutter to drill out the spot welds where its welded to the cross member. Mine is not my dd so I had a lot more time to do it. Maybe Parenegade will chime in. He has donesome awesome rust repair on his resto. Also I used the key parts pans on mine.
 
been looking at that posting..very nice work. i am more confused as to how it all comes together? the seams,ect. looks like i can buy both floor pan, dont know if i need the back step portion too.
 
I used the full floor panels from Classic Ent. but you can buy just the rear floor pans. You could make your own patch but the benefit of the pre-stamped ones are less time shaping, bending, and generally fabbing it, plus you get the ribs and contours that are correct and those also add strength.
img2731qe.jpg


The riser piece I made myself which was basically a "C" channel and the top and bottom legs are the lap joints for the adjoining piece. Then drill holes, clamp and plug weld together. It's a game of trim, fit, trim, fit,.... to get it just right but a cut-off wheel and a grinder make it easy. Oh, and patience! You could buy the riser but you get the whole piece from one side to the other, so you'd have waste (unless your doing both sides).


img2833v.jpg


img2863gw.jpg


He linked you to page 9 but theres pics of this area on page 10 also.
The outer support underneath is spot welded in several places to the floor so you'll have to drill them out, then plug weld them to the new floor.
 
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it deff. looks like someone been in here before and done a poor job the more i look around. i think classic show both floors for 250ish..didnt know if doing the riser would make it easier, also dont know if its ness. right now but by the looks of the fender/seam area i think so? some better pics may help too, sorry
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