front d44 rear 9" worth buying?

[sbrodacz]

There is someone local with a front Dana 44 and rear 9" from a 79 f150. The axles have been sand blasted and powdercoated. He said he also has rebuild kits but did not use them because the axles were in such good condition. He is asking $350 for the pair. Is it worth it? I know I am going to have to upgrade axles sooner or later. Eventually I would love to run 39" plus tires, but that would not be for a long time. Right now I'm on 31" tires but would like to upgrade to 35-37" tires. Do you guys think the Dana 44 front and 9" rear would be enough?

 

[sbrodacz]

Nevermind, just talked to the guy. He said it wouldn't work.

 

[Old Dog]

The front Dana 44 will not work as ford uses a driver side diff. and your cj is a pass. side diff.
A chevy or older dodge is pass side drop. You could use on of them to go with the 9".
The 9" would be a good choice though (as long as it's not a 27 spline) if you want to run full size axles or get it cut down to cj size.

 

[sbrodacz]

The front Dana 44 will not work as ford uses a driver side diff. and your cj is a pass. side diff.
A chevy or older dodge is pass side drop. You could use on of them to go with the 9".
The 9" would be a good choice though (as long as it's not a 27 spline) if you want to run full size axles or get it cut down to cj size.

Would it just be better to go with a 14 bolt in the rear? They're pretty cheap on craigslist. What size tire can the stock axles usually handle? I'd really like to throw a 4" lift and 33s or 35" tires before I go to the trails. 31s are going to suck after having 35s on my old TJ.

 

[Old Dog]

14 bolts are big diffs. you will lose a lot of ground clearance. The 9" would be better.

 

[sbrodacz]

14 bolts are big diffs. you will lose a lot of ground clearance. The 9" would be better.

What about a dana 60 or dana 70?

 

[BajaEdition]

I want you to answer a few questions to yourself
first, where do you live, and what is the wheeling done there, mud? rocks?general trails?
then, why do I need to upgrade?
you keep talking about the big diffs, the ones you need a lot of tire to get value from
the stock diffs in any CJ made since the mid 60s will handle up to 33 inch tires, after that you need to upgrade, and when you do, you need to get bigger and bigger tires to clear the amount of height you are losing with those huge pumpkins.
Now, is the wheeling there is primarily mud or sand, ok then the diffs need to be strong even for small tires, but if it is rocks or general trails, then you lose so much without having to throw a ton of money at the beast by upgrading to those huge pumpkins.
Put a few of the magazines away, remember they write stuff to get you to buy stuff from their advertisers, and get into wheeling, go out and decide what you need. How you wheel and stuff. Then during that time learn about diffs and stuff from sources not impressed with big is better. then upgrade to what you need, not what you want to impress guys with. You will save thousands, and end up with a balanced jeep for the area you are in. We have guys here with the big stuff and the light stuff, all wheeling the local terrain, and all will tell you to research first, build second. Asking bout 20 diffs all at once will confuse you.
remember, big diffs, big tires, big tires, low gears, low gears, slow on street, slow on street, gas guzzler, gas guzzler, broke owner, broke owner, sells jeep.
so, build what you need and can use, not what you read about written buy guys who have to sell advertiser space to keep their jobs
I mean sheesh, just go out and get rockwells if you want the biggest and baddest.

 

[sbrodacz]

I want you to answer a few questions to yourself
first, where do you live, and what is the wheeling done there, mud? rocks?general trails?
then, why do I need to upgrade?
you keep talking about the big diffs, the ones you need a lot of tire to get value from
the stock diffs in any CJ made since the mid 60s will handle up to 33 inch tires, after that you need to upgrade, and when you do, you need to get bigger and bigger tires to clear the amount of height you are losing with those huge pumpkins.
Now, is the wheeling there is primarily mud or sand, ok then the diffs need to be strong even for small tires, but if it is rocks or general trails, then you lose so much without having to throw a ton of money at the beast by upgrading to those huge pumpkins.
Put a few of the magazines away, remember they write stuff to get you to buy stuff from their advertisers, and get into wheeling, go out and decide what you need. How you wheel and stuff. Then during that time learn about diffs and stuff from sources not impressed with big is better. then upgrade to what you need, not what you want to impress guys with. You will save thousands, and end up with a balanced jeep for the area you are in. We have guys here with the big stuff and the light stuff, all wheeling the local terrain, and all will tell you to research first, build second. Asking bout 20 diffs all at once will confuse you.
remember, big diffs, big tires, big tires, low gears, low gears, slow on street, slow on street, gas guzzler, gas guzzler, broke owner, broke owner, sells jeep.
so, build what you need and can use, not what you read about written buy guys who have to sell advertiser space to keep their jobs
I mean sheesh, just go out and get rockwells if you want the biggest and baddest.

I've done a fair share of wheeling in the last 5 years. I have a good idea of what I want to do, but that was with a Tj and not a CJ. I never said I was looking at magazines, not sure where that came from and do not talk to me like I am 5 or and idiot. I never said I was going with what I read or what others have told me. I wanted dana 60s front and rear when I had my Tj. This jeep was bought mainly for trails with very little street use. I'm located just outside Chicago, the trails around here are mainly sand, dirt and mud. I'd be happy with 37" tires, I just do not want to have to do everything over and over again like I did with my TJ.

 

[Old Dog]

Sounds like you already know you want d60's.
Plan on changing the Transfer Case too.

 

[sbrodacz]

Sounds like you already know you want d60's.
Plan on changing the Transfer Case too.

I'm not stuck on d60's, that is just want I had wanted to do before. If a 9" rear and Dana 44 front, both locked would work good with 37" tires, I may just do that.

 

[CJ]

~~~ I never said I was looking at magazines, not sure where that came from and do not talk to me like I am 5 or and idiot. ~~~

sb, Baja was, and is looking out for our members. The majority (probably close to 99%) of these type of questions are from members who see a great looking, rock crushing, D70 suspended CJ on a magazine cover and want to be just like them. They do not understand what it takes to put those type of suspensions under a Jeep.

You asked what size tire the stock axles can handle, I'm assuming you mean the stock CJ axles? They can handle any size tire really. It just depends how much you keep your foot out of the accelerator.

The Dana 30 and the AMC2 can handle 33's and do reasonably well with aftermarket axles (u-joints - Dana 30 ) and such. The AMC20 will need trussing, tubes welded and a 1 piece kit. Going to 35's will stress them even more.
Does adding the after market parts mean you won't break anything? Hell no, I have seen D60's broken by bad driving. I saw a Rockwell with a broken planetary hub by a dumbass stuck between tree stumps once...

The real answer to your question is, there is no real answer. You need to ask your self all the questions that Baja asked you and asses your situation.

 

[Old Dog]

I'm not stuck on d60's, that is just want I had wanted to do before. If a 9" rear and Dana 44 front, both locked would work good with 37" tires, I may just do that.

37's are pushing a Dana 44 . The quadra-trak is going to be a weak link also.

 

[sbrodacz]

sb, Baja was, and is looking out for our members. The majority (probably close to 99%) of these type of questions are from members who see a great looking, rock crushing, D70 suspended CJ on a magazine cover and want to be just like them. They do not understand what it takes to put those type of suspensions under a Jeep.

You asked what size tire the stock axles can handle, I'm assuming you mean the stock CJ axles? They can handle any size tire really. It just depends how much you keep your foot out of the accelerator.

The Dana 30 and the AMC2 can handle 33's and do reasonably well with aftermarket axles (u-joints - Dana 30 ) and such. The AMC20 will need trussing, tubes welded and a 1 piece kit. Going to 35's will stress them even more.
Does adding the after market parts mean you won't break anything? Hell no, I have seen D60's broken by bad driving. I saw a Rockwell with a broken planetary hub by a dumbass stuck between tree stumps once...

The real answer to your question is, there is no real answer. You need to ask your self all the questions that Baja asked you and asses your situation.

I have a drag car and I completely understand that nothing is built proof. But you also do not get a d35 rear end plan on running 35s. If I do a 9" rear or a dana 60 I'm not assuming nothing with break, it will just be a little less likely. I was referring to stock CJ axles. I am new o CJs and I am trying to learn as much as I can. I will be having my first child in Nov so I do not want to spend a ton of money having to do everything multiple times. I have yet to take the CJ to any trails yet, so I do not know what its capabilities are yet. From having a jeep with front and rear lockers, 4.88s and 35" tires, I am sure I was able to do a lot more than I will be able to do with a stock CJ and 31" tires and they may get frustrating, getting stuck now when I used to be able to crawl through everything I attempted.

I do not want to order a lift (no clue which one or size) install it next week and add 33" tires and than want to go bigger because the 33" tires were not enough. I guess to start off with, I'd like the CJ to be similar to my old TJ's capabilities before I really start investing money into. Maybe I jumped the gun a little bit, but I still have to get a feel for the CJ before I spend 1000's of dollars on it. Who knows, maybe a smaller lift and 34-35" tires will be more than enough with the CJ for a while.

37's are pushing a Dana 44 . The quadra-trak is going to be a weak link also.

I don't have a problem replacing the Transfer Case when the time comes.

 

[CJ]

I have a drag car and I completely understand that nothing is built proof. But you also do not get a d35 rear end plan on running 35s. If I do a 9" rear or a dana 60 I'm not assuming nothing with break, it will just be a little less likely. I was referring to stock CJ axles. I am new o CJs and I am trying to learn as much as I can. I will be having my first child in Nov so I do not want to spend a ton of money having to do everything multiple times. I have yet to take the CJ to any trails yet, so I do not know what its capabilities are yet. From having a jeep with front and rear lockers, 4.88s and 35" tires, I am sure I was able to do a lot more than I will be able to do with a stock CJ and 31" tires and they may get frustrating, getting stuck now when I used to be able to crawl through everything I attempted.

I do not want to order a lift (no clue which one or size) install it next week and add 33" tires and than want to go bigger because the 33" tires were not enough. I guess to start off with, I'd like the CJ to be similar to my old TJ's capabilities before I really start investing money into. Maybe I jumped the gun a little bit, but I still have to get a feel for the CJ before I spend 1000's of dollars on it. Who knows, maybe a smaller lift and 34-35" tires will be more than enough with the CJ for a while.



I don't have a problem replacing the Transfer Case when the time comes.

Well, that helps one heck of alot...

Lets start out with rear end, you should have a AMC20 , not a D35. The AMC20 has a larger ring gear (.125") than a Dana 44 yet the axle tubes are seriously weak and the stock axles are two piece. The AMC20 can be made as strong or stronger than the Dana 44 , but it will cost you. A built AMC20 or a slightly build Dana 44 can handle 35's as long as you watch the go pedal.

The same can be said for your front diff, the Dana 30 . 35's are pushing it though. To handle 35's reliable, replacement high quality axles are really in order - I bought the Superior EVO series axles for my Dana 30 , but they weren't cheap.

 

[sbrodacz]

Well, that helps one heck of alot...

Lets start out with rear end, you should have a AMC20 , not a D35. The AMC20 has a larger ring gear (.125") than a Dana 44 yet the axle tubes are seriously weak and the stock axles are two piece. The AMC20 can be made as strong or stronger than the Dana 44 , but it will cost you. A built AMC20 or a slightly build Dana 44 can handle 35's as long as you watch the go pedal.

The same can be said for your front diff, the Dana 30 . 35's are pushing it though. To handle 35's reliable, replacement high quality axles are really in order - I bought the Superior EVO series axles for my Dana 30 , but they weren't cheap.

I do know know it doesn't have a d35, just wasn't sure which rear axle it was. I as just using the d35 as a reference since my TJ had a d35 that I swapped out with a Dana 44 , 33 spline moser shafts and a detroit locker. What does it normally cost to upgrade the AMC20 ? Maybe it'd be best to just upgrade the AMC20 and Dana 30 and lock them and throw 35s on for the next year or two.

 

[Old Dog]

IMHO if you plan to run 35 or bigger tires don't bother trying to build the 20, you will just be wasting your money. Even the one piece axles are only 29 spline, and the tubes are weak.
Also you have narrow trak axles now and 35" tires are going to hit your front springs without big wheel spacers and that to me is a no no.
If you really want big tires you will end up with full width axles, so just have fun wheeling what you have for now and save up your money for new axles and tires.

 

[BajaEdition]

I've done a fair share of wheeling in the last 5 years. I have a good idea of what I want to do, but that was with a Tj and not a CJ. I never said I was looking at magazines, not sure where that came from and do not talk to me like I am 5 or and idiot. I never said I was going with what I read or what others have told me. I wanted dana 60s front and rear when I had my Tj. This jeep was bought mainly for trails with very little street use. I'm located just outside Chicago, the trails around here are mainly sand, dirt and mud. I'd be happy with 37" tires, I just do not want to have to do everything over and over again like I did with my TJ.

I have a drag car and I completely understand that nothing is built proof. But you also do not get a d35 rear end plan on running 35s. If I do a 9" rear or a dana 60 I'm not assuming nothing with break, it will just be a little less likely. I was referring to stock CJ axles. I am new o CJs and I am trying to learn as much as I can. I will be having my first child in Nov so I do not want to spend a ton of money having to do everything multiple times. I have yet to take the CJ to any trails yet, so I do not know what its capabilities are yet. From having a jeep with front and rear lockers, 4.88s and 35" tires, I am sure I was able to do a lot more than I will be able to do with a stock CJ and 31" tires and they may get frustrating, getting stuck now when I used to be able to crawl through everything I attempted.

I do not want to order a lift (no clue which one or size) install it next week and add 33" tires and than want to go bigger because the 33" tires were not enough. I guess to start off with, I'd like the CJ to be similar to my old TJ's capabilities before I really start investing money into. Maybe I jumped the gun a little bit, but I still have to get a feel for the CJ before I spend 1000's of dollars on it. Who knows, maybe a smaller lift and 34-35" tires will be more than enough with the CJ for a while.



I don't have a problem replacing the Transfer Case when the time comes.

your first few post, and the questions you asked raised a lot of flags, just the fact that you posted about a set of axles in the original post that were not compatible due to offset sets off a lot of questions about experience. So I think you can see my response.
As stated by CJ, we do see a lot of guys coming here who read about the latest D60 upgrade from Currie and canot be talked out of it.
So , you had problems with the TJ and now want to build a CJ. OK I can deal with that and now you want to know about what diffs will work.
You wheel a lot of dirt and sand and want 39s, You have researched your wheelbase and track and decide that they will work and not be to tipsy and you will not end up on your side.
Lets move on, I personally would want to move up from a stock set of diffs in that CJ for 39s and Mud, just the 39s are going to press them past their limit and now we want to do it bullet proof.
wen looking at a diff we want to make sure the tire size we run is going to be worth it, running a D60 and 39s are going to be in line, however I really would look at the Rock Jock 60s offered by Currie as they have the housing set at an angle to offer more clearance. But this is a high end idea, but again you voiced concern and I thought I would throw it out there.
So far from your post, I can discern you do not know what diff, how much lift, firm on tire size but know you do not want to do it twice.
TJs and CJs wheel different, what the TJ could do stock you have to mod a CJ to do.
A CJ will never match the articulation a TJ had.
However in the conditions you mention wheeling in, articulation is not a major ordeal.
Wheel base is another thing to look at as well as track. seeing how it is a 7 your wheel base is not unusual to you, but the track is narrower. you know a set of D60s will do good as you can widen the track with them but will need to tune the bumpstops to not destroy the body.
You state you will change the Tcase if necessary, so offset is no longer an issue.
so from all I just reviewed from your post, and from what I have added I think you want to plan on building a bullet proof CJ that is as capable as your old TJ and run 39s, not worried about what else needs to be changed when the time comes for it.
I have one word for you
Rockwells.
It will be the trickest thing on the block, will deal with those 39s, any issue on driveline you will deal with when you get there, Lift will be dealt with to squeeze in the 39s and If you ever break them I think everyone will be amazed.

 

[sbrodacz]

your first few post, and the questions you asked raised a lot of flags, just the fact that you posted about a set of axles in the original post that were not compatible due to offset sets off a lot of questions about experience. So I think you can see my response.
As stated by CJ, we do see a lot of guys coming here who read about the latest D60 upgrade from Currie and canot be talked out of it.
So , you had problems with the TJ and now want to build a CJ. OK I can deal with that and now you want to know about what diffs will work.
You wheel a lot of dirt and sand and want 39s, You have researched your wheelbase and track and decide that they will work and not be to tipsy and you will not end up on your side.
Lets move on, I personally would want to move up from a stock set of diffs in that CJ for 39s and Mud, just the 39s are going to press them past their limit and now we want to do it bullet proof.
wen looking at a diff we want to make sure the tire size we run is going to be worth it, running a D60 and 39s are going to be in line, however I really would look at the Rock Jock 60s offered by Currie as they have the housing set at an angle to offer more clearance. But this is a high end idea, but again you voiced concern and I thought I would throw it out there.
So far from your post, I can discern you do not know what diff, how much lift, firm on tire size but know you do not want to do it twice.
TJs and CJs wheel different, what the TJ could do stock you have to mod a CJ to do.
A CJ will never match the articulation a TJ had.
However in the conditions you mention wheeling in, articulation is not a major ordeal.
Wheel base is another thing to look at as well as track. seeing how it is a 7 your wheel base is not unusual to you, but the track is narrower. you know a set of D60s will do good as you can widen the track with them but will need to tune the bumpstops to not destroy the body.
You state you will change the Tcase if necessary, so offset is no longer an issue.
so from all I just reviewed from your post, and from what I have added I think you want to plan on building a bullet proof CJ that is as capable as your old TJ and run 39s, not worried about what else needs to be changed when the time comes for it.
I have one word for you
Rockwells.
It will be the trickest thing on the block, will deal with those 39s, any issue on driveline you will deal with when you get there, Lift will be dealt with to squeeze in the 39s and If you ever break them I think everyone will be amazed.

I'm really not sure where you keep coming from and why you keep putting words in my mouth. I never said I was stuck on 39s and I also never said I had problems with my TJ. If you actually read through everything, you would have also read that I'd be fine with 35s for a while. I also specifically said I know nothing is bullet proof. Posting a question about axles that do not work, really is not relevant when it comes to experience. I made it clear from the start that the CJ is in a different class when it comes to wheel and that I have a lot of experience on the trails, but with a TJ. But like you said as far as the CJ I am not sure of which lift, size and axles to go with. If had another TJ this would have been a piece of cake, but I'm glad I don't. There is nothing like a CJ. It will just take time and a million questions and hours on here to figure out exactly what I want.

 

[Kane]

It sounds to me like baja heard you just fine. I took it the same way as him. I don't think he was bashing you at first but just being real based off of past people with the same questions. We don't know you but the first thing you asked was about all the biggest axles out there and that raises flags to the other members here. I don't think baja was talking you down but you took it that way. He has a ton of knowledge just like many of us and he gave you alot of good points. The perception of Internet attitude in his first response may not have been what you think. I didn't see the attitude.

 

[sbrodacz]

If that is the case, I apologize for the misunderstanding.