General ignition question?

General ignition question?
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BurntMoney

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84 CJ7 4.2 engine
How does a larger spark (I.E. hotter coil better distributor cap e.t.c.) help to burn the fuel more efficiently? If a single spark ignights a 5 gallon jug the whole thing blows up right? Any help here is appreciated.
 
As far as I can see it's not a question of getting it to burn, it's a question of getting it to burn RIGHT FREEKIN NOW. So the hotter the spark the more vapor is ignited at the precise time you want detonation. If you poured the gallon of gas on the ground in a line 300 yards long it becomes more difficult to get it all to ignite at the same time.

OK, now does anybody know what the real reason is??:D
 
A longer and stronger spark means you can add more fuel and get a longer burn time.

Don't forget, the fuel is under compression where the gas can scenario it is not. The more compression, the more spark you need to ignite the fuel.

This is a good read -->> http://www.auroraelectronics.com/ignition_systems_-_basics_to_high performance.htm

Pay particular attention to the section "Misconceptions" and the paragraph "Any spark will do to run an engine."
 
Awesome , I think I have a better understanding of the benifit of a hotter coil now. Would anyone happen to have a recommendation for a coil to go on a 84 model AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a weber 2barrel carb? (Unsure of the model carb. right now) I wasnt really looking to have to add a external resistor unless necessary. Everything else seems to be OEM.
 
BurntMoney said:
Awesome , I think I have a better understanding of the benifit of a hotter coil now. Would anyone happen to have a recommendation for a coil to go on a 84 model AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a weber 2barrel carb? (Unsure of the model carb. right now) I wasnt really looking to have to add a external resistor unless necessary. Everything else seems to be OEM.
Click to expand...

Adding a hotter coil is one thing, but you need the rest of the system upgraded to take advantage of it. The stock dizzy is small and prone to crossfire.
A really good stock-style upgrade is a TFI ignition. This uses the cap, rotor, coil, and plug wires for a Ford 300cid engine.
The basics are a larger cap, hotter coil, and larger (8mm) plug wires. In-conjunction, the plugs are re-gapped to .045 vs the factory .035

I've used this conversion on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and on my 401 and the difference is night and day.
 
^^^ what he said and if you can swing an MSD 6A module It is a truly beautiful thing.:D
 
CJim7 said:
Adding a hotter coil is one thing, but you need the rest of the system upgraded to take advantage of it. The stock dizzy is small and prone to crossfire.
A really good stock-style upgrade is a TFI ignition. This uses the cap, rotor, coil, and plug wires for a Ford 300cid engine.
The basics are a larger cap, hotter coil, and larger (8mm) plug wires. In-conjunction, the plugs are re-gapped to .045 vs the factory .035

I've used this conversion on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and on my 401 and the difference is night and day.
Click to expand...
It's called the team rush upgrade and it makes a big differince I went with msd blaster coil it's the same size as your stock on and it's just a mater of changing them I got all my parts from NAPA. If you need the part numbers I have all of them.
 
Thanks to all for the input and advice.This was my first posting to the forum on this site and Im kind of impressed with all the input and how quick to help people have been.
 
Just an FYI....the "Team Rush" upgrade is post-TFI. The TFI upgrade has been around for many many years, "Team Rush" just took the idea and decided to call it their own by adding some name-brand goodies :rolleyes:
 
A one wire HEI is a complete system. Uses GM parts. Starts faster. Waterproof.

Seen many after market coils and separate ignition units :dung: out the trail and get towed. . .
 
BurntMoney said:
Thanks to all for the input and advice.This was my first posting to the forum on this site and Im kind of impressed with all the input and how quick to help people have been.
Click to expand...
Bustadave has a great wright up on the team rush ignition upgrade. Its on a sticky here at the top in the drive train section. It has all the part #s and every thing. I just changed to the new cap and cap adapter, and plug wires, gapped my plugs to .045 and its alot better. I'm saving up for the coil and ignition module.:):cool::chug:
 
the really big point here is that just about anything you do will be an improvement over what you have the AMC ignition system is 1970s technology and the lifespan and performance of the non-OEM moduale is underwhelming at best.:D
 
BurntMoney said:
@mtnwhlr That would be awesome and much appreciated. Napa is pretty much who I like to deal with.
Click to expand...
The NAPA part# are FA139 adapter, FA136 cap, RFN14LY plugs, FA159 rotor, 700230 wires, then I went with the MSD Blaster coil from them.
 
OK couldnt resist any longer, did the upgrade with the a fore mentioned parts, including the MSD Blaster coil and gapped the plugs at .045. More power for sure, but do I need to add the resistor that I have seen mentioned in other places?
 
Only add the resistor if you do not have one inline already. What voltage are you showing at the coil? If it is around 12v you need the resistor.
 
BurntMoney said:
OK couldnt resist any longer, did the upgrade with the a fore mentioned parts, including the MSD Blaster coil and gapped the plugs at .045. More power for sure, but do I need to add the resistor that I have seen mentioned in other places?
Click to expand...
If you've done the upgrade, started the Jeep, and successfully turned it off, you do not need the resistor. If your Jeep continues to run even after turning the switch to 'Off', then you would need it.
 
BurntMoney said:
9.3 on the red 7.0 on the green(right side of coil)
Click to expand...
Most ballast resistor coil systems run aprox. 7.5 volts. The resistor is usually only needed for a point type ignition system. What is the part # of the coil you have?

Ghostship said:
If you've done the upgrade, started the Jeep, and successfully turned it off, you do not need the resistor. If your Jeep continues to run even after turning the switch to 'Off', then you would need it.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily true. I believe you are mistaking a diode with the ballast resistor. The resistor drops the voltage to the coil (allows the coil to work in the specified voltage - a 6v coil will eventually fail with 12v) and a diode placed between the charging circuit and the coil acts like a gate and only allows current to flow in one direction.
 
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