I'm having a problem, I've put my new to me tub and grill on my frame of my 73 CJ5 and the grill spacing on the cj is off. The driverside has a half inch extra space between it and the frame. Ive taken it off and tried to refit it and still off. Its tight on the frame but off on the space. Any ideas of whats throwing it off would be greatly appreciated.
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
A little more info please.
Were the frame, tub and grill all from the same jeep and you took them off for a frame off restore?
can you post some pictures so we can see just how and where the misalignment is.
The grill goes on with only one bolt. that is iin the center but the "nut" is a plate that can be moved around about 1/2" from side to side. The rods can also be adjusted to turn the grill. I measure one side then the other to make sure the sides are the same distance from the fire wall. You can leave everything loose and use the fenders to square things up. Then move the grill to the center, close the hood to make sure everything is square then tighten the ody bolts paying attention to the alignment as you go.
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Thanks Hedge, as for more info. The grill and tub are from a donor 73 CJ5 . the frame is my original 73 cj5. I guess Iwill loosen the fenders and the grill up and see if it can get it all to fit properly. This has been my major pain. For everything that I've done on this thing its odd something so simple has been so complicated.
Make sure the center front blot is VERY loose and the nut plate isn't rusted or in some way stuck in place. Other than a bent frame the only place to adjust the front is in the center bolt. Pull the radiator, doing that will make this much easier.
Thanks, that aint a problem I haven't put the motor or the radiator back in. I plan on loosening the fenders and the grill back up tomorrow and see what I can get accomplished hope to get it primed tomorrow also.
Good point, I haven't removed an entire body so I didn't know that. Are the body mounts configured like the front with a nut plate that can be adjusted?
The grill goes on with only one bolt. that is iin the center but the "nut" is a plate that can be moved around about 1/2" from side to side. The rods can also be adjusted to turn the grill. I measure one side then the other to make sure the sides are the same distance from the fire wall. You can leave everything loose and use the fenders to square things up. Then move the grill to the center, close the hood to make sure everything is square then tighten the ody bolts paying attention to the alignment as you go.
I realize this is a pretty old posting, but can Hedgehog or anyone describe what is meant by, "...use the fenders to square things up."?
After replacing the engine mounts and body mounts the front (and last one) was off center by quite a bit. If I line the grill up on the frame hole, the hood will not close. I hope the frame is not bent...
Thanks!
Shawn
If you bolt your fenders onto the firewall, put your fender braces in place and finger tight them, clear the shocks, thread your fender bolts up front into the sides of the grill, place the grill rods and finger tight them, close and larch the hood wiggling the grill into place to get it to latch, then tighten the grill bolt down you should be pretty close. A tweak here and there will be necessary. At least that's how I do mine.
Thanks Mitchellogic.
I'm not sure if my problem is that straightforward. I looked at it this morning and saw that the two inside corners of the fenders are at the sam spot on each side of the frame. The grill is right now centered on its hole.
The hood veers off to the left, not aligned. The gaps between firewall and hood are equal.
If I move the fenders and grill to match the hood, the center of the grill will be off by 1.5" or so.
So, I took some basic measurements and here is what I got:
Front frame tip outside to outside - 29-3/16"
The following are measured from inside surface of the body mounting bracket to a straight edge held against the body:
Driver side: 1st body mounting bracket to body skin - 15-1/16"
2nd body mounting bracket to body skin - 12-1/8"
3rd body mounting bracket to body skin - 10-7/8"
I skipped position 4 under the wheel well.
5th position, very back, from frame to outer skin - 11"
Passenger side: 1st body mounting bracket to body skin - 15-3/16"
2nd body mounting bracket to body skin - 12-1/8"
3rd body mounting bracket to body skin - 10-5/8"
I skipped position 4 under the wheel well.
5th position, very back, from frame to outer skin - 11"
Diagonal 1 - 11' 2-5/16"
Diagonal 2 - 11' 2-1/16"
So good news, but I'm still confused.
Sarcasm aside, and in all seriousness, not one of my Jeeps has ever been that close to straight. Frame by itself pretty straight. Body by itself pretty true. Together......not so much.
Now, back to sarcasm and humor....
Step 1. Put your tape measure in your toolbox.
Step 2. Stick your thumb up and close one eye.
Note:
For fine measurements use your finger sliding your thumb across it to set depth.
Last go round I loose fit everything.
Used a jack to wiggle the body so it looked straight on the frame and I could get a dowel through the body holes lined up with frame mounts.
Dropped the grill on.
Bolted the fenders on loose.
Put the prop rods in place and let the old paint marks guide me back to "close" but still loose.
Put the hood on and closed it to latch (with all of the rubber bumpers (small plugs or stops) installed. Hood hinges were finger tight.
Went under the Jeep with a 2x4. Put the end of the 2x4 up against the tire and pushed up until the fender and firewall flushed up on the bottom. Bolted up the fender.
Installed the fender to fire wall braces from below finger tight.
Same on the other side.
Then bumped the grill around, wiggled it and banged it around until it was plumb and the gaps to the hood looked right.
Tightened the bottom grill bolt.
Tightened the hood hinges.
Tightened the braces.
Etc.
Little bumps, bangs, and swearing.
Two beers later and it was pretty good.
It's not an Italian race car after all.
Tolerance should have been recorded as "kinda-sorta-whatever" at factory anyway.
Long story short it was more of a "What do I want to look the best and fudge a little with all the rest."
If that isn't getting you close and your hood is still off then maybe the hood is skewed from the prop rod or closing it hard on a hold down under the lip of the hood? Hoods are pretty resilient though.
Wish I could be more help.
Here's how.mine ended up (after I chucked the fenders and fit up flatties).
Thanks again! I loosened everything up and stopped being an Architect for a bit. Looks like it will all be just fine.
I like your setup - very nice. What purpose does the Glinfiddich bottle serve there on the front?
Ha! Impressed you caught that it was a scotch bottle. Its a Te Bheag bottle though. (So worth hunting for.....trust me)
The bottle is my rad overflow.
Believe it or not I was forced to remove the label or get an "open liquor" ticket one fine summer day.
There was no overflow present when I took ownership. While I searched for a proper one I used this bottle with a rubber clear coat and rubber base to get the job done.
Now my Jeep is known for it around town and it starts lots of great curbside conversation. So it stays.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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. Any ideas of whats throwing it off would be greatly appreciated.
