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Here's a test for yeah

Here's a test for yeah

Hedgehog

Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Posts
9,370
Thanks
4
Location
Tucson/Marana Arizona
Vehicle(s)
-1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
Been driving the CJ a lot lately. to work, to the story, plays and school activities. Usually she idles at 700 rpms, Friday it was idling at 950, hit the pedal and it jumped to 1200, once more and it jumped to 1800. OMG, checked the mechanisms - OK - noticed the throttle was off the stop - idles properly with the throttle on the stop - oiled the cable seemed to move smoothly. Hooked everything back up, still idled high. What is the probable cause for the problem?
 
I would unhook the cable and see if the carb works right without it being hooked up. If it does you know it's the cable if not you know it's the carb. And go from there.
 
First thought is the cable slipped at the point it is clamped at the carb.
 
Look for binding in the foot pedal area.
LG
 
Tried to thank all of you so far. What ever they are doing to the forum is not allowing the "Thanks" button to work. .....WRONG it is allowing a thanks, but says I don't have the board privileges to modify your posts. :( :)
 
Tried to thank all of you so far. What ever they are doing to the forum is not allowing the "Thanks" button to work.

Yeah-I'm have'n the same issue also-Goes to a 'not authorized' page or some such. Very frustrating.
LG
 
I'm guessing weak return spring on the carb or it's time to replace the throttle cable.
 
Excellent, every one of you were very close. Some were right on the money. The problem was a frayed throttle cable down at the fire wall/pedal. Wasn't as easy to find as you'd think. At first I could find nothing wrong with it. Then while checking wires close to the cable a wire reached out and punched a hole in my fingers. AAAAAA haaaaaa! The cable was frayed.
 
Was really seeing how many of you would have started the same way I did. Changing the cable seemed easy enough. The stock cable is way long, seems too long so I tried a shorter one. Mistake, the pedal sticks. No fun. Now I'm cutting the new cable back, drilling out the firewall plug and likely will reuse the old cable.
 
Fingers cross'd. :chug:
LG
 
Was really seeing how many of you would have started the same way I did. Changing the cable seemed easy enough. The stock cable is way long, seems too long so I tried a shorter one. Mistake, the pedal sticks. No fun. Now I'm cutting the new cable back, drilling out the firewall plug and likely will reuse the old cable.

I ran into this also when I swapped in my 401....the "stock" cable was way too long, and the short cable was too short . I'm using the short cable, but it's a stretch...literally...
 
The one you are using is even shorter than the one I tried. That one requires such a sharp bend it binds right off idle. Yesterday people in the parking garage must have thought I was nuts. The pedal wouldn't press correctly. It would catch right off idle, then pop down some. The CJ was a tire chirping mess all the way out of the garage. Using the hand throttle helped some.

Last night I cut the broken long cable, then cut the square cable sheath off. Then carefully drilled out the old cable sheath from the square end and pressed in the carefully cut short enough to get in good cable, sheath and glued it in place. ACE has cable ends that work great for jobs like this. Simply slide it on the cable until you are where it needs to be and on a hard surface, smack it with a sizeable hammer. The end forms around the cable nicely and doesn't move.

It worked so well I've been looking at the new on I bought. If it were shortened, but left a little longer than the one you have it might work better than it does now. We shall see.
 
The one you are using is even shorter than the one I tried. That one requires such a sharp bend it binds right off idle.
You're exactly right....it is too short and the bend is extreme from the firewall.

Last night I cut the broken long cable, then cut the square cable sheath off. Then carefully drilled out the old cable sheath from the square end and pressed in the carefully cut short enough to get in good cable, sheath and glued it in place. ACE has cable ends that work great for jobs like this. Simply slide it on the cable until you are where it needs to be and on a hard surface, smack it with a sizeable hammer. The end forms around the cable nicely and doesn't move.

It worked so well I've been looking at the new on I bought. If it were shortened, but left a little longer than the one you have it might work better than it does now. We shall see.

That sounds a little more involved than I want to get....I would be interested to hear what others running V8's have used for a throttle cable.
 
The newly rebuilt cable works great. Being the long stock cable it's now shorter than it was, the turn in the long cable is gentle giving great throttle response.

While the process was lengthy to write it only took a few minutes to accomplish. No special tools required.

I'm thinking of replacing the whole stock gas pedal mechanism. I'm old enough to remember when gas pedals were hinged at the floor, similar to semi-trucks are today. I have a little trouble that turns into a major problem on a long trip, finding a good place to rest my right foot on the gas pedal while maintaining speed. My hand throttle helps, but it really shouldn't be used on the road. While browsing the Hot Rod sites I see there are gas pedals and "nubs" of various sizes to rest the foot on. Having been a motorcycle driver I've come to appreciate having alternate places to rest your foot or feet during a long ride. I don't know why it wouldn't work in a CJ.
 
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You should do a full write up on that with pictures :chug:
 
Well, It is simple, but might help a lot of people with similar problems. I might take a shot at shortening the one that is to long, but requires a sharp twist to work, so sharp that it doesn't work well at all. Jim, if you have the same engine I have I'd be glad to attempt making a better cable for you from the one I have. The really short one like you have could be considered dangerous due to the fact that the short cable doesn't allow for the body/frame roll people have trouble with the stock clutch arrangement. In your case the body twists one was and the frame another, the next thing you know your engine is surging when you least expect it to.
 
You could replace that cable with fish'n line. :laugh: :poke:
LG
 
There must be some fishing connection?????? :) The pinch on cable ends maybe.

ACE does carry pinch on cable ends. For a long time I'd never think to use them, but one day I was in need and these were the only solution. They don't really pinch on. What they are is some kind of very malleable aluminum and despite my earlier distrust they work VERY well indeed.

How do they work? Keep your cable long, I like to use super glue on the ends to keep them from fraying. Make sure of the finish length. slide the end to where you want it to stay. Using my vice as a hitting surface I tap the cable end lightly with a 2 lb hammer closing it just enough to lightly hold position. Then measure to make sure it's where it should be, if not slide it into position. Check length again, when its in the correct position smack the cable end a couple or more good swats. The aluminum will form around the cable making it almost impossible to remove. For good measure I like to slide another stop up tight and smack it in place as a locking cable end. Then cut off the extra and you, my friend are done.

There are other types, those with set screws and such. These make a nice clean factory finished product. ...... not a slip fit like a fishing weight. :)
 
HH-On that thin cable. I use a soldering iron and a dab of solder to seal the cable's end.
LG
 
Well, It is simple, but might help a lot of people with similar problems. I might take a shot at shortening the one that is to long, but requires a sharp twist to work, so sharp that it doesn't work well at all. Jim, if you have the same engine I have I'd be glad to attempt making a better cable for you from the one I have. The really short one like you have could be considered dangerous due to the fact that the short cable doesn't allow for the body/frame roll people have trouble with the stock clutch arrangement. In your case the body twists one was and the frame another, the next thing you know your engine is surging when you least expect it to.

I appreciate the offer HH, I think I want to try this....could be a good skill to learn. If I fail, I will take you up on that :notworthy:

And yes, I've experienced a surge here and there because of the short length....It wasn't fun :eek:
 

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