Identify Axle . . .

[ParsonMac]

In the interest of getting to know my newly acquired 1984 CJ7 a little better, I've been nosing around underneath and have found that the front axle is a Dana 44 (ARB locked). I understand this isn't stock for that year so I manage to remove enough rust from the axle and all but one numeral of the BOM # is readable. I go Dana's website and plug in all the number's I do have and then from 0 - 9 successively plug in the unknown digit. It turns out to be a Dana 44 GM/Chevy K20. What, if any info does anyone know about this axle and is this a common swap for it's stock 30? Also, what about modifications (width etc.) needed to install. Attached are pics of the axle. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[BajaEdition]

A lot of guys swap in D44s from various places in to replace the Dana 30 in jeeps.
Especially guys wanting to run 35s and bigger. they are a stout 1 ton axle and have some of the biggest aftermarket support of any axle. Looks like you have a nice setup.
The Dana 30 in Jeeps are actually a good axle, you find a lot of them that never have ever had a problem. They will handle 33s with ease and have good clearance under the pumpkin. However the days of 33s being the big tire on the block ended around a decade ago and the current craze is for bigger.
Hense the upgrade to the Dana 44 your PO did. Becuase of the craze the Dana 30 gets little respect, however it was one of the most successful axles Jeep ever used, They still use it in fact.
The Dana 44 on the front of the TJs has Dana 30 knuckles and outers.
probably the mods needed to install that were a new driveshaft, refiguring the spring pads and new steering linkage

 

[Old Dog]

Whats really interesting is that they did it SUA. Chevys are set from the factory to be SOA.
You didn't show a pic of the jeep but I'm guessing the axle has probably been narrowed also.

 

[ParsonMac]

I suspected that it had been narrowed. Another question - we're probably also looking at a different set of disks in front aren't we? Here's a pic of the jeep below.

 

[Old Dog]

It's narrowed, the tires would be sticking way out otherwise.
I'd say it could have just about any brakes. If they changed it to 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern (stock cj) they had to change something, but with PO's who knows.
Baja might have some ideas.

 

[BajaEdition]

I run GM Disc brakes on my CJs, great brakes, the bracket is not part of the kncukle, but bolts on the knuckle.

 

[BajaEdition]

is that drag link flat with the tie rod?

 

[ParsonMac]

Yes, it is Baja.

 

[ParsonMac]

Here are some pics of the rear of the diff.

 

[Petescj]

Looks to be another Dana 44 but a pic of the diff cover straight on would be perfect. If you want the stock axles that came in your Jeep I'll be a nice guy and swap you even up. Somebody threw a good chunk of change at them to have them narrowed and slung under the Jeep in s.u.a. fashion. Id say you got pretty lucky there.

 

[Petescj]

A closer look at that first pic looks like the drag link is bent downward right before the steering box. May be an optical illusion. Any steering issues? I wonder if you really need that drop pitman arm or if you could get away with a stocker. May be too drastic though. That be said narrowed 44s is a pretty nice set up.

 

[ParsonMac]

LOL Pete! It is definitely a 44. I'm just trying to get a handle on what it's from. The BOM # states that it's Chevy/GM K20 but that was a spring over. I suppose they could have modified it - but as I'm sorta new at this it's hard for me to even know what to ask (believe me, I'm learnin' though). By the way, there's a straight on shot at the top of this post. Yes, I do on occasion get a shimmy and I suspect that draglink and tie rod is the problem. You can see a shiny spot on the tierod just opposite the pitman where it rubs the tierod.

 

[BajaEdition]

I am thinking the dropped pitman arm and the bent draglink could give a case of DW under certain conditions, I have been researching it, and have not as of yet found what angle the draglink needs to be at, but that dropped arm seems that if it is flat there it could be doing a bit of up and down traveling.
This not my biggest area of knowledge, I know on a vehicle with a track bar it is suppose to match the downward angle of the track bar but I have been searching for optimum angle for a leaf spring vehicle.

 

[ParsonMac]

Here is a pic of where the drag link and tie rod make contact leaving a quarter size worn spot on the tie rod.

 

[Old Dog]

I am thinking the dropped pitman arm and the bent draglink could give a case of DW under certain conditions, I have been researching it, and have not as of yet found what angle the draglink needs to be at, but that dropped arm seems that if it is flat there it could be doing a bit of up and down traveling.
This not my biggest area of knowledge, I know on a vehicle with a track bar it is suppose to match the downward angle of the track bar but I have been searching for optimum angle for a leaf spring vehicle.

To the best of my knowledge the tie-rod and draglink should be flat.

 

[ParsonMac]

From all my research, they should run parallel to one another.

 

[BajaEdition]

Ok then why do you match the drop in a coil spring vehicle's track bar?
that is what bothers me My drag link in my 67 has a bit of drop with no DW issues and same in the 70 which is a Saginaw system, 67 is a Ross.
I want find out for sure about this as I just do not know.
seeing as that is 3 different steering systems, I kinda do not want to commit till I figure it out

 

[ParsonMac]

Sounds good Baja.

 

[BajaEdition]

is the angle still flat when turned to the side? or below the tie rod?

 

[ParsonMac]

The draglink is parallel to the axle (as is the tie rod) when turned from side to side.