Just bought the MC2100 1.8 Carb- And I am wondering about all the vacuum lines

Just bought the MC2100 1.8 Carb- And I am wondering about all the vacuum lines

cfgraneto1118

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Philly Town USA
Vehicle(s)
1977 CJ 5: 258 inline 6 cylinder (4.2L); T18 factory installed four speed transmission; front dana 30 axle, dana 20 spicer transfer case with a dana 20 axle.(I now know that this was originally a Levi Straus Edition.)
Has any one done this? From what I can tell all that it needs are a line to the distributor (the vacuum advance) and the line to the PCV valve. Am I right? What happens to the EGR valve line that went to the Carter? And how will this effect my air injection in the top of the manifold. Unfortunately, or fortunately, I have the california emissions control manifold that comes from the air pump into the diverter.

I am running a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l Liter with the 6A MSD ignition upgrade and blaster coil?

Pulled the manifolds off and regasketed them and then could not get the stupid Carter to work. It was belching fuel again, this is the second time, so I decided to go with the moderately priced carb upgrade. Am I heading in the right direction other than looking to do the THE HowellTBI upgrade which I plan to do come the end of the summer.

Need this thing as a daily driver and I am seriously frustrated. Any and all direction and help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
you have two kinds of vacuum. Ported and manifold. the ported will be at zero at idle and the manifold will be at maximum at idle. The pcv valve will be manifold vacuum, a port below the throttle plates and the distributor will(arguably) be on a ported vacuum. The EGR, I believe is ported but it and the diverter valve for the air injection are controlled by the CTR switch/valve so they are temperature activated. The TAC air cleaner is manifold vacuum with the damper signals going through the CTO switch so the bypass heated intake closes when the engine is warm.

Clear as mudd?:wtf:

I just put a MC2100 on mine and have the dizzy set to 14 deg before and the idle screws closed until I got as close to a 700 RPM idle as I could get. If I tune it for max idle speed it runs between 800 and 1000 RPMs
 
Here's a couple of diagrams, the second one is how mine is set up :chug:


mc2100vacuumdiagram.jpg




vacuum_setup.jpg
 
If you live in CA you better check to see if you can pass the smog nazi with that carb.
 
I passed the smog nazi with a bolt on catalytic converter and a exhaust manifold that was leaking with like a sieve.....Currently I am in Philadelphia. And I think I will pass there as well...
 
Here's a couple of diagrams, the second one is how mine is set up :chug:


mc2100vacuumdiagram.jpg




vacuum_setup.jpg

Thank you Elwood you rock....One question: are those two lines running from the inline fuel filter to the tank and vapor return?
:chug:
 
I passed the smog nazi with a bolt on catalytic converter and a exhaust manifold that was leaking with like a sieve.....Currently I am in Philadelphia. And I think I will pass there as well...
Sorry I thought you were in CA where it has to be stock or :censored:.
 
Thank you Elwood you rock....One question: are those two lines running from the inline fuel filter to the tank and vapor return?
:chug:


Hey, no problem. The line in to the fuel filter is from the fuel pump, and the fuel filter is the stock kind with two outlets, the bigger outlet to the carb, the smaller outlet is the vapor return line to the fuel tank.

Make sure when you install the fuel filter, that those two outlet holes are lined up vertically, the bottom (bigger hole) goes to the carb. The top (smaller hole) is the vapor return to the tank.
 
Hey, no problem. The line in to the fuel filter is from the fuel pump, and the fuel filter is the stock kind with two outlets, the bigger outlet to the carb, the smaller outlet is the vapor return line to the fuel tank.

Make sure when you install the fuel filter, that those two outlet holes are lined up vertically, the bottom (bigger hole) goes to the carb. The top (smaller hole) is the vapor return to the tank.

Check, install the two outlet stock fuel filter vertically.....I noticed Elwood that in your pictures you have removed all the california emissions. How does it run without the added claptrap? Secondly, I noticed in your pictures that you have two small air filter like contraptions on the vent breather and the PCV valve. These allow for what exactly? And where did you get them?

Thirdly, I noticed in one pictures that there is an outlet in the manifold above the EGR valve that runs back to the rear corner of the intake manifold. What is this

The MC2100 comes this Friday, whooooooopeeeeeee:chug:
 
Check, install the two outlet stock fuel filter vertically.....I noticed Elwood that in your pictures you have removed all the california emissions. How does it run without the added claptrap? Secondly, I noticed in your pictures that you have two small air filter like contraptions on the vent breather and the PCV valve. These allow for what exactly? And where did you get them?

Thirdly, I noticed in one pictures that there is an outlet in the manifold above the EGR valve that runs back to the rear corner of the intake manifold. What is this

The MC2100 comes this Friday, whooooooopeeeeeee:chug:



It runs A LOT better than it ever did with all of that useless :dung: on there, that's for darn sure.

Here's a picture of my engine bay

dsc_1187.jpg


There are 3 holes in your valve cover, one of them is the oil fill. The other 2 are up to you. In the rear hole I have a crankcase vent breather, and in the front hole I have a PCV valve. The breather is a simple push in K&N unit that I bought from Summit. But, you can find cheaper ones at your local parts place.

I don't understand the question about the EGR though.
 
Just for the record, the 77 was the last year that did not have a catalytic converter.:D


I passed the smog nazi with a bolt on catalytic converter and a exhaust manifold that was leaking with like a sieve.....Currently I am in Philadelphia. And I think I will pass there as well...
 
Oh I wish my engine bay looked like that today.....Got the rebuild, studied the connections, traced the previous idiot owners stupidity, removed the air pump and the emissions poopie, plugged the manifold holes, and then Oh my fing God....The Motorcraft doesn't fit. It seems that the housing of the two barrel to one barrel intake manifold hits the studs.....
Options? Trim the studs of course. Really don't want to do that....Next?
How about a spacer? Anybody, bueller?
The second concern is that the throttle is a pull back and I want to stick with the pull down of the carter. Suggestions...........

Help, I am ready to killllllll someone!:mad:
 
Just for the record, the 77 was the last year that did not have a catalytic converter.:D

Well this is a California 77 and it has a catalytic converter.....Scratches head?
 
Oh I wish my engine bay looked like that today.....Got the rebuild, studied the connections, traced the previous idiot owners stupidity, removed the air pump and the emissions poopie, plugged the manifold holes, and then Oh my fing God....The Motorcraft doesn't fit. It seems that the housing of the two barrel to one barrel intake manifold hits the studs.....
Options? Trim the studs of course. Really don't want to do that....Next?
How about a spacer? Anybody, bueller?
The second concern is that the throttle is a pull back and I want to stick with the pull down of the carter. Suggestions...........

Help, I am ready to killllllll someone!:mad:


Ok, ok, calm down, what you're running in to is not uncommon at all when doing this swap. I don't recall you saying you were swapping the MC2100 from a stock single barrel. That's going to make it a little more difficult, but by no means not doable. Can you take a picture of what you're working with with the carb adapter and where it's hitting? That'll help work that issue.

As for the throttle linkage issue, you have two options, make your own, or purchase one.

This one just bolts on top of one of your carb studs:

Spectre Performance 24283 - Spectre Performance Throttle Cable Brackets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

spe-24283_w.jpg

Just search summit for throttle cable bracket

Or, you can make one. I took my stock throttle cable bracket, the pull down style, cut the square end of (that the end of the trottle cable secures too) and fabbed my own bracket that bolts to the intake manifold. It's a little difficult to see, but you can see where I have it mocked up with vise grips.

dsc_0167.jpg
 
First and foremost, I apologize, I am a "visual thinker" and not a great mechanic. I will post pictures. But what I have been fighting with is that I cannot "see" how this adaption works. Yes, Elwood I should have stated that this is a single barrel intake manifold and this is a conversion kit.
I took the old Carter BBl off and put it back on after replacing the gaskets.i bought what looks like a great "rebuild kit" of a motorcraft 2100. I thought one would just have to bolt it on. And, I have found out that it was not the case. Pictures to follow (tommorow)
 
Ok so I calmed down a little. Work got in the way, but I got the carburetor on today. I hooked up the pull-back throttle bracket that came with this kit. (Don't like it and ordered the summit bracket and a new throttle cable assembly.) Hooked the in line gas filter up horizontally, even though I knew better. Ran the vacuum advance line to the port on the side of underneath the choke and closest to the front of the jeep. Ran the PCV valve hose to the top port behind the choke and teed-off it to the charcoal canister. And it still wouldn't start. Pictures tomorrow since I ran out of light today.
 
All I can say is, brother I've been there and all you can do is have a :beer: or :beer::beer: and hit it again tomorrow.

Don't worry, we'll get you straightened out :chug:
 


Ok, the carb is in and seated correctly. I used this temporary throttle installation. I have every line capped off except the ones directly above the egr valve. (I am not certain what these do?) I believe I need to remove this brass port and the tee and plug it. (question: do I need to plug the EGR valve too?)

I think I am ready to give up. There must be a mechanic that can make sense of what I am not able to see. I figure I did all the hard work. Now they just have to trace my mistakes and make the baby purr once again. No shame in admitting that one has much to learn. Pushing the CJ out into the street this afternoon and calling a carb specialist tomorrow. Thanks everyone for all the help.


carb_install_3__047.jpg



carb_install_4__048.jpg



carb_install__045.jpg



carb_install_2__046.jpg
 
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Which way was that IO, pushing it into the street and resigning it to a carb specialist or the mounting bracket?
 

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