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Looking for DEFINITIVE HEI answers...

Looking for DEFINITIVE HEI answers...

007

Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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Location
Reno, NV
Vehicle(s)
1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Detroit/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.
I have a 77 CJ7 with a AMC 304 and it has the stock Prestolite distributor. It's "literally" being held together with a shoe string (holds cap rotor). I've been doing a lot of reading on the Team Rush upgrade as well as just replacing the cap and rotor with new Prestolite (AutoZone stuff) and doing an HEI conversion.

I am total novice to ignition systems. I understand what they do in net terms, but not how they do it. :confused:

From what I'm reading the HEI conversion is the most simple and probably appropriate for someone of my ignition know-how (or lack thereof) and for my type of driving, but the cam gear part scares me to death. Last thing I want to worry with is that right now...:eek:

So - that said - is the HEI conversion as simple as it sounds? And if so, what HEI should I get and WHERE from to make sure I have the right gear on the end of it...?
 
I went with a DUI HEI from performancedistributors I chose them because of the whole gear issue. Double or triple the price of the ebay cheapies, but worth it for the piece of mind it gives me. Also, the tech service was great when I had a question. It really was easy to install and wire.
 
Yes that one. I found the large red wire coming out of the firewall next to the master cylinder that originally went into the old ignition module. I spliced in a 10 gauge wire and ran that to the DUI.
 
I uses the same wire that powers the ignition module but spliced in a 16 gauge wire to towe a realy then ran power from the relay directly to the HEI. Certian wires in the system are designed to run less then 12volts and I didnt feel like checking what was what so a uninterupted line direct from the battery was a beter choice for me.

Honestly any power source that is hot only with the igniton on is good enough to switch a relay.
 
Thank you! I'm good to go now...
 
Just make sure you stay away from the cheap ones. The one I had gave me fits and I ended up pulling it and going back to stock. I didnt have any gear problems but the performance was actually worse under load. I never really delved into it to find out what was wrong but when I went back to stock it ran much better. I got it off Craigslist and it was a Pro Comp unit IIRC. I guess it just boils down to you get what you pay for. I havent heard or seen a bad review on the D.U.I. unit.
Thank you! I'm good to go now...
 
Bought a Proform and found it interfered with P/S pump. Ended up with the Summit 850048 which had a shorter shaft and fit much better. I still needed to get a slightly longer belt to get good clearance. You will also have to rotate the unit and move ignition wires to match rotation. Definitely you want to run current through a relay and use full 12 volt current from battery and not use stock ignition red wire direct to HEI but to trip relay. Their is a diagram in an older post for wiring, but pretty simple. I mounted my relay on firewall and wired HEI from there.
 
Just to clarify mine was on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . There is alot of garbled info on the internet about the H.E.I. It can be tough to sort out. I like your post topic being DEFINITIVE HEI answers. You almost need 2 for the 6 cyl and 8 cyl respectively.

Sounds like a good project for someone to work on. ;)
 
Has anyone used the CRT Performance brand?
Jeep HEI's

I have a new cam in my freshly rebuilt engine and was wanting to go this way since I need a new distributor and ignition module anyway. Was just wanting to know if this was the brand that ate up cam gears for anyone.
(AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l -I6)

I did look at the DUI brand referenced above, and completely understand you get what you pay for. But....I also know something is worth what someone will pay for it first and foremost. Help me make my mind up please.:chug:
 
Im pretty sure the failure of the cam gear was mostly in V-8s and was due to shady steel used in the distributor gear and was a problem years ago.. I have one that I just found out was damaged from the PO who sold it to me so Ill be getting a new one. Im gonna look at that Grog guy on ebay.. I got my adapter for mu 2100 from him. it was a great deal and a fansatic part. I think he sells the Distributor, cap and wires for $140 ish.
 

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