MC2100, Pulse Air Delete, Nutter, Team Rush

[Philyaw75]

Some or all of these questions may be addressed somewhere else - I apologize in advance for rehashing what are old issues for most of you:

I've got a stock '83 CJ7 with 93k original miles and recently installed an MC2100 from the Ebay guy (Gronk Performance), I've completed the nutter bypass (I think), and stripped most of the pulse air system out (down to the pipes that connect tot the exhaust), and lastly upgraded the distributor cap and plug wires with BWD performance parts. I also installed new spark plugs gapped at .45 and installed new autolite professional plug wires but I have not installed an "e-coil" - I did however put a new canister style BWD coil in.

Couple questions:

1. When I ordered the carb I indicated that I would be installing the electric/hot-air choke from the old carter carb (knowing you have to reverse the coil)...I've since changed my mind and I'm going with a manual choke - what do I need to plug up or modify on the carb to make the manual work? I've got the manual housing installed and only need to hook up cable through the firewall.

2. With the nutter bypass all I've done is intercepted the purple and orange wires and run straight from distributor to ignition module. Is there anything else to do? some of the post make it sound a lot more complicated. I'm assuming I will need to adjust timing once I get the jeep running. Should I upgrade the ignition module to an MSD 6 series?

3. Is the e-coil essential to the ignition upgrade? There are conflicting posts about whether to stay with a canister type coil or not - I'm thinking of the MSD Blaster 2F as a good option (it retains the factory pigtail)...do I need a balast resistor with either factory canister or msd blaster? Do you need the additional ground regardless of the coil type? Where should the extra ground wire be?

4. My MC2100 doesn't appear to have a connection for the pcv valve - based on a picture I've seen there should be a large nipple to run pcv on the back of the carb - there is a smaller nipple on the back that was capped when I received it - should I run pcv to there or somewhere else. In summary what is the bare minimum I should have connected to the carb?

5. The only vac lines I have left are pcv, distributor advance, and possibly egr, because I went with the non-smog version of the carb there is no bowl vent connection. Any thoughts on vac lines or any potential issues I may run into? What needs to be left running to the canister on the drivers side?

*I did keep all the smog equipment, air cleaner assembly, etc. in case I ever want/need to put it back.

 

[BusaDave9]

3. Is the e-coil essential to the ignition upgrade? There are conflicting posts about whether to stay with a canister type coil or not - I'm thinking of the MSD Blaster 2F as a good option (it retains the factory pigtail)...do I need a balast resistor with either factory canister or msd blaster? Do you need the additional ground regardless of the coil type? Where should the extra ground wire be?

The motorcraft E-coil is not at all necessary. It's a good coil that produces a strong spark at higher RPM. I'm more concerned with lower RPM and for that reason prefer the canister coil. You can retain the OEM coil for the TeamRush upgrade or move up to the MSD blaster coil.

​

Don't use a ballast resistor with this coil.
Grounds are important elsewhere but not on coil. Even the negative wire on the coil is not a ground. It's a pulsed signal that activates the coil.

Here's a link to the TeamRush upgrade: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/teamrush-ignition-upgrade-11416/

 

[NorthwestCJer]

Man Choke question... towards the firewall from the choke on the side of the carb. you should have a tube that runs at an angle, down towards the manifold. This tube has a passage all the way into the carb and comes out under the carb. Its for the auto choke system to sense the engine temp.
This will be a vac leak. I recommend taking the carb off and drill/tapping the hole and JB welding a machine screw into it.
My jeep is settup a lot like you are doing.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Some or all of these questions may be addressed somewhere else - I apologize in advance for rehashing what are old issues for most of you:

I've got a stock '83 CJ7 with 93k original miles and recently installed an MC2100 from the Ebay guy (Gronk Performance), I've completed the nutter bypass (I think), and stripped most of the pulse air system out (down to the pipes that connect tot the exhaust), and lastly upgraded the distributor cap and plug wires with BWD performance parts. I also installed new spark plugs gapped at .45 and installed new autolite professional plug wires but I have not installed an "e-coil" - I did however put a new canister style BWD coil in.

Couple questions:

1. When I ordered the carb I indicated that I would be installing the electric/hot-air choke from the old carter carb (knowing you have to reverse the coil)...I've since changed my mind and I'm going with a manual choke - what do I need to plug up or modify on the carb to make the manual work? I've got the manual housing installed and only need to hook up cable through the firewall.

I agree with the statement made earlier about needing to plug up that line that runs from the thermo housing to the bottom of the carb. You can follow the above sound advice about removign the carb, drilling, tapping and JB welding a screw into the hole to seal it. Or Ive see a few people just remove the 3 long screws that hold the choke to the carb on one of the legs it has a gasket and you can see the hole. Make a new gasket that doesnt have the hole cut out into it or place a small dab of jb weld in that hole and make the gasket with out the hole to seal it up. Since the port is not a straight through hole and makes a few curves there is little to any chance that the jb weld will come out and get sucked into the motor.

2. With the nutter bypass all I've done is intercepted the purple and orange wires and run straight from distributor to ignition module. Is there anything else to do? some of the post make it sound a lot more complicated. I'm assuming I will need to adjust timing once I get the jeep running. Should I upgrade the ignition module to an MSD 6 series?

adjust the timing and see how it runs.. if it runs like go with the MSD. I like either stock module and keep a spare zip tied under the passenger seat of a good old fashion HEI set up. Sound like you got the wiring right. if you were ambitious you can remove all the sensors, wires and extra from the system to clean up the motor wiring.

3. Is the e-coil essential to the ignition upgrade? There are conflicting posts about whether to stay with a canister type coil or not - I'm thinking of the MSD Blaster 2F as a good option (it retains the factory pigtail)...do I need a balast resistor with either factory canister or msd blaster? Do you need the additional ground regardless of the coil type? Where should the extra ground wire be?

Ive never done the upgrade but can tell you... GROUND AS MUCH AS YOU CAN!! I have a heavy ground wiring going from the batt to the motor with several good size individual grounds going to the grill (head lights ground there) altenator, and distributor. Plus I have a few grounds going from the battery to the fire wall, rear of the tub and rear frame cross member to help with tail light brightnes and fuel sender accuracy. over ground it!

4. My MC2100 doesn't appear to have a connection for the pcv valve - based on a picture I've seen there should be a large nipple to run pcv on the back of the carb - there is a smaller nipple on the back that was capped when I received it - should I run pcv to there or somewhere else. In summary what is the bare minimum I should have connected to the carb?

The pvc sould go to the capped port on the back of the carb, the Distributor goes to the front right port and you brake booster goes to the manifold. Make sure you either remove or plug the CTO manifold. It will leak on ya. On my YJ.. Same carb set up Ive pulled the intake, removed every thing but the booster nipple and 2 lines for the heater return. every thing else has been plugged. Ive even replaced the EGR valve with a block off plate to prevent leats from that. any other nipples that you have left on the carb need to be capped with tight fitting caps.. no hose and screws.

5. The only vac lines I have left are pcv, distributor advance, and possibly egr, because I went with the non-smog version of the carb there is no bowl vent connection. Any thoughts on vac lines or any potential issues I may run into? What needs to be left running to the canister on the drivers side?

Id remove the canistor.. but some will tell you to keep it. Find a diagram of post nutter vacuum lines.

*I did keep all the smog equipment, air cleaner assembly, etc. in case I ever want/need to put it back.

good luck.. I like that guys system he makes.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Oh I had 2 other questions..

#1 Why remove the electric choke?
#2 why did you open your plug gap up that far? I dont know the specs on the BWD coil but it seems like alot extra.

 

[BusaDave9]

why did you open your plug gap up that far? I dont know the specs on the BWD coil but it seems like alot extra.

.045 is quite a gap (the original post was missing a zero) You could open them up that far only if you have done the full TeamRush upgrade with MDS ignition module and perfomance plug wires. Otherwise the spark won't be able to efficiently bridge that gap. A strong short spark is more important than a long weak spark.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

~~A strong short spark is more important than a long weak spark.

Words to live by Dave, words to live by...

 

[Torxhead]

.045 is quite a gap (the original post was missing a zero) You could open them up that far only if you have done the full TeamRush upgrade with MDS ignition module and perfomance plug wires. Otherwise the spark won't be able to efficiently bridge that gap. A strong short spark is more important than a long weak spark.

Dave, I have been using the Teamrush for years with a .045 gap and no problems. This was from the Teamrush instructions:
Performance spark plugs / gap - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Looking at that info I see that a .040 is stated, although I believe that earlier it was .045. Anyway I will continue my current setting, as it seems just fine.

 

[BusaDave9]

Dave, I have been using the Teamrush for years with a .045 gap and no problems. This was from the Teamrush instructions:
Performance spark plugs / gap - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups

Agreed
I also am running the TeamRush upgrade with a .045 gap. Here's my thread: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/teamrush-ignition-upgrade-11416/

But it looks like Philyaw75 only replaced the coil and is running a .045 inch gap.

 

[BusaDave9]

Hey Philyaw75, any word on how your jeep is running?

 

[Philyaw75]

I pulled the MC2100 to plug the electric choke "port".......and it was already plugged. A thourogh cleaning and new gasket and I had it back on and finished up the manual choke. Choke cable needs adjusting but everything is in place.

Completed the ignition upgrade and got everything hooked back up.

Reworked the connections for the "Nutter".

Plugged the air tubes with an expanding rubber plug - all other pulse stuff is in a box in my shop.

***Got everything cleaned up, pulled the air cleaner off, 2 shots of starting fluid and it started right up, runs like a sewing machine. I ran it up and down the road a few times and let it idle in my driveway - seems to be idling low. I haven't done anything with timing or idle adjustment...but I'm extremely pleased and appreciate the feedback on the forum. **By the way this '83 is bone stock otherwise and has seen less than 100 miles in the last couple years.

Next up is plastic valve cover replacement with an Omix-Ada alumimum valve cover - the bolt at the back wasn't nearly as bad as I expected...looks like I have (2) holes to drill and tap.