Nutter Bypass - Now Jeep Won't Start

Nutter Bypass - Now Jeep Won't Start

krtwinger

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Grand Junction, Co
Vehicle(s)
1983 CJ7, 258CI, T5 Transmission, Dana 300.
Hi, I recently did the nutter bypass to my stock 83 CJ7 6 cyl. I followed the diagram and when I went to start it to adjust timing I couldn't get it to start. The jeep turns over and runs for approx. 3 seconds but instantly dies. I am at a loss of what went wrong. The jeep ran before this and I am sure I did everything as per the diagram. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
 
I don't even know what the Nutter Bypass is so I'm of no help. Ill follow your thread though because now I'm curious.


-HCJ
 
Just brought my jeep home from an auto hobby shop on base after installing a painless engine harness and doing a nutter bypass. I replaced the ignition module, coil and install a refurbished distributor due to all of these components being in bad condition but still operational. Before I replaced them I also had a small issue getting it going. Ensure all the connectors are seated properly and loosen the distributor. Try starting it while some adjusts the distributor slighlty (repeatedly) until it turns over. It will run rough until you adjust it to proper settings( 8 TDC). The difference is amazing, smooth idling and significant HP increase. Hope this helps.
 
did you pull the distributor out at all? you shouldn't have to. when you rewired the ignition did you cut the orange and purple wires at the ignition control mod. and run new wires directly over to the distributor? if you haven't you should and they should be twisted together.
 
I ran new wires from the distributor to the ECM, I did not twist them though as I do not see how that would make a difference.Does it? I tucked the wires back in the loom. The distributor was never taken out, just loosened.
 
Update - I checked and triple checked all my connections. I notice it will run only when my key is in the start position. I lose spark when it is in the run position. I put a jump wire from the battery to the coil and still couldn't keep it running. I am at a loss.
 
did you just clip the 2 wires from the harness off of the control module and leave the rest plugged up? the only wires that should have been changed were the purple and orange wires everything else should remain plugged up otherwise you won't be getting power to the ign. mod. when i done it originally i cut the wires between the round connector and the module, and done the same with the dist, that way the other wire/wires were still connected to the harness.
 
I started by removing the stepper motor and adjusting the pins wide open. I then cut the orange and purple wire coming out of the the ignition module while leaving the others plugged in. I then found the orange and purple wires coming out of the distributor and traced them closer to the fire wall. I cut those and ran two lengths of wire to ultimately connect orange to orange and purple to purple. I soldered and shrink wrapped my connections. Also I checked the continuity of both wires. I loosened the distributor and tried to start her up. That is when I ran into my current problem. I am curious to hear what you think.

Link I used - This is a Picture Guide to Nutter Bypass - JeepForum.com
 
man it seems you done everything right, my only suggestions are to go back and check your solder joints, and pull every plug clean it and put new dielectric grease on them. I would check my grounds, and especially check the coil connector they are generally wore out, mine was when it was still on there. it was running before and the only thing you changed was clipping a couple of wires and put them back together. you can also check the coil with an ohmmeter but i can't remember what numbers you are looking for may be someone else can chime in on that. check the pics from the link you gave me, the 2 wires do need to be twisted together.
 
So had some time today and decided to pull the ignition module, low and behold we found our problem. The 12v hot wire to the ignition module was previously spliced by the p.o. and had come out of its impervious butt connector. I didn't notice it because it was behind the unit against the wheel well. Fixed her and now I am back on the road with the bypass. Runs great. thanks for all the help.
 

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