Oil Change

Oil Change
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WAXER

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Baltimore
Vehicle(s)
1986 CJ 7, 258 I6, 5 SPD, No MCU, No Ignition Module, No emissions.
Going to do first oil change since PO. What would be the best weight oil to use? AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l w/183K. Also what brand oil filter? (not Fram?).
WAXER
 
personally, i use 10w30 in the winter 10w40 in the summer valvoline, and purolater filters, i do stay away from fram, (long story). some folks use alot heavier weight oil, some use lighter weight, some use fram, some use wix, alot of its preference. my combo is just the best for me i guess. others will have different opinions and preferences. i will tell you to stay away from Quaker state oil though, after some of the :dung: i've seen gunked up in a motor, i wouldn't use it to oil a bicycle chain.
 
I've seen this discussion before here. There a lot of opinions. Here's my 2 cents worth. I am a mechanic and I build engines so I'm not just reading this stuff off of the internet. I recomend Shell Rotella 15W40 because the car oil on the shelves nowdays is designed for newer engines with roller cams. They took out anti-scuff components because it wreaked havoc on catalytic converters. Your old engine has flat tappet lifters. It needs the anti-wear stuff. You will get it in Rotella.

How much you drive it will play a part in how important your oil is. If it is a high mileage, daily driver, this anti-wear issue will be important.

I like Motorcraft oil filters. I have cut a lot of filters apart and I too will not buy Fram.
 
I like rotella in older engines also, although a good syn. like mobil 1 is also good. For a filter I use either K&N or mobil 1.
 
I was recommended that either the Rotella or Royal Purple oil. 10-40 seemed to be the same recommended by everyone. If using other oils other than the above 2 listed I was told to use a zinc addative with every oilchange.
 
My motor only has about 15k miles on it so I don't feel the need for rotella, but as far as the zinc and zddp not being in the motor oils anymore, I counter that with a half bottle of lucas break in additive with every oil change. Like I said you will get many opinions on this you just have to pick which one is suitable for you and your jeep.

DROOOID2
 
Cheepjeep85 said:
My motor only has about 15k miles on it so I don't feel the need for rotella, but as far as the zinc and zddp not being in the motor oils anymore, I counter that with a half bottle of lucas break in additive with every oil change. Like I said you will get many opinions on this you just have to pick which one is suitable for you and your jeep.

DROOOID2
Click to expand...

Very true I have 0 miles so far and just did the 20min break in over the weekend. Hopefuly thjis weekend I can get it back on the road for its ring breakin. i decided not to use synthetic and used reg Mobil oil. The break in I have put a bottle of additavbe in and will just add the additive on each oil change. It actually lists a full bottle for breakin and 2oz per qt capacity for a oil change. As far as Rotells its just too expensive. Bad enough we have to use it on the International.
 
That's why I don't use rotella, can't afford it really. That and a low mileage engine really doesn't need a thick oil, but the additive is a must. I change my oil every 3k miles, most of the time I can get a oil change special at advance 5qt valvoline and a purolator filter for $17.99, if not I go to walmart and get the 5qt jug of valvoline, and a filter for about the same price. The lucas is about $8 for a bottle and it last 2 oil changes for me which puts my maintenance costs at about $22 per.

DROOOID2
 
Welcome!

5W-30 in winter and 10W-30 in summer. That is what the engine was designed around.

Quote from Bennie at Hesco. Mobil 1 is responsible for more cam failures then any other oil. Mostly because many folks use it thinking it is a superior oil. For modern day roller engines that may be true. But not for our old school flat tappet engines.


The chemical make-up, even with the high mileage oils, that is supposed to have additional anti scuff properties. Has proven to be unsatisfactory for flat tappet engines.
 
Last edited:
fzsk4p said:
Welcome!

5W-30 in winter and 10W-30 in summer. That is what the engine was designed around.

Quote from Bennie at Hesco. Mobil 1 is responsible for more cam failures then any other oil. Mostly because many folks use it thinking it is a superior oil. For modern day roller engines that may be true. But not for our old school flat tappet engines.


The chemical make-up, even with the high mileage oils, that is supposed to have additional anti scuff properties. Has proven to be unsatisfactory for flat tappet engines.
Click to expand...

All I can say is my truck doesn't have a roller cam and it has lived
well for 130,000 miles on Mobil 1 (synthetic)
A lot of thoes miles were pulling the jeep.
Other than that I agree with you.
My jeep runs rotella but I don't believe the extra weight hurts it any
as all my driving is in the warm weather..
 
Cheepjeep85 said:
You have a sbc in yours don't you old dog? You can put almost anything in a sbc and it'll do fine. Hell I've seen em run for years without any oil pressure hot or cold.

DROOOID2
Click to expand...
You have a point there.:D
 
WAXER said:
Going to do first oil change since PO. What would be the best weight oil to use? AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l w/183K. Also what brand oil filter? (not Fram?).
WAXER
Click to expand...

WAXER,
I am the technical manager at Fram. I have a pretty sweet 97 Wrangler, been running a Fram Extended Guard filter and Castrol 10w40 since new, the original engine was sold to another jeep guy running great at 192K miles. I sold it when I installed a V8. The XG filter is 8 bucks, it has a full stainless steel pleated media wrapped by two layers of full synthetic media, all silicone valves. It hold nearly four times as much dirt as any brand of oil filter in the market. See more at fram.com/proof:chug:
 
I'm not paying $8 for an oil filter, call me cheep. I've seen the cut away's, and my $3 purolator is the same or better than the $8 fram. Don't get me wrong I used to use fram filters religiously, then I wallked into the local parts store one day and they had a box of cutaways, after that I won't ever use a fram again. Sorry


DROOOID2
 
I just changed the oil this morning and got a great deal at Advance Auto Parts: Pure One Purolater Filter and 5 quarts of Valvoline 10-40 for $17.99.

Jeep runs much better now - Must have been a while since the PO did the last oil change?!?
 
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