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Oil Pressure Issues

Oil Pressure Issues

007

Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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Location
Reno, NV
Vehicle(s)
1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Detroit/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.
When got home from the Colorado trip, I noticed some oil / fluid sprayed around my undercarriage. I assumed it was a Transmission cooler line and didn't think much about it. I figured I'd tighten them up and go on. I sprayed it all down, snugged them up and considered it done.

Yesterday I drove my Jeep to work, one hour each way. No issues at all, no leaks, etc. But on the way home my oil pressure gauge (which is usually pegged high started flopping around low. No noise, no increased heat, just a wild gauge. See video below...

https://youtu.be/uc0rC9ngB8k

When I got home I crawled under there and it's all back on there again, and as a result of the hour long trip, there's a bit of it backdrafted onto the rear end (bumpter, body, spare). Oil is a bit lower than it was, but there's plenty.

It doesn't leak any more than it ever has (couple of 50-cent piece circles after a day or so), but I obviously have an issue. Could the filter or sending unit have come loose? Any ideas or popular issues?

I put it in the garage so it could cool, but haven't been out to check anything yet until this evening.
 
The factory dash gauge is notorious for the erratic needle behavior.
I would not trust what you are seeing with that gauge.
Of course, you know your Jeep better than anyone, and where that needle usually registers.
I would put my hands on the oil filter and sending unit and just snug them up a bit.
I would then check for abnormal oil residue inside the air cleaner housing which might indicate a problem with the PCV and or breather cap/hose.
 
I once had the erratic gage thing when it got hot and found that the slip on connector in the sending unit expanded enough when hot to loose contact with the sending unit. replaced the connector with ring connector and a nut and that was a good thing. Leaks are a PITA and would have to say drive it around the block and check it and drive around the block and check it, repeat until it shows itself. good luck.:chug:
 
I do like the "wet" gage better but be advised it will have a conflict of space with the defrost duct. heat the duct with heat gun and put a strategic dent in it to clear.
 
With any luck it's just a loose or broken filter or sending unit. I've heard of sending units leaking. Are you sure it's engine oil and not a Transmission problem.

A little spraying oil can go a long ways.
 
I had a wet oil gauge one time and the firewall chaffed a hole in it,I noticed it when hot oil started spraying on my feet how nice :cool:
 
Lol. Dejavu with spraying hot oil. Same here with a 77 Golden Eagle back in the mid 80's. I seem to recall it happened at least twice.


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All fluids run down hill. That being said, all of the above are great places to look. I would just add one more. Valve cover seal. Mine was leaking near the fire wall and it was a bugger to find. Good luck!

I had an errant oil pressure issue as well. When I fixed the seal and cleaned the area around the fire wall the darn thing started working again. The sender is near the fire wall on the engine.
 
I have the V8 so mine is tucked in above the filter so to speak.

I washed it all down then tightened my filter and snugged up the wire on the sender.

I also unplugged and capped off my vac line to the PVC.

I hope to give it a good run tomorrow afternoon to see if I've made any change.


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Capping off or plugging the P-C-V valve is going to cause leaks, not stop them.
 
Capping off or plugging the P-C-V valve is going to cause leaks, not stop them.



Well it wasn't hooked up forever and I never had leaks. I hooked it up right and first time running it hard I have problems. I failed to mention too I have a pool of oil behind water pump at base of distributor.


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If I read it correctly, you didn't plug off your PCV valve, you plugged the vacuum port. In my application the PCV line made vacuum to purge the charcoal canister. Mine is capped. The line to the canister created a vacuum leak for me, but I've got a mix of parts with an '82 360 where a '75 AMC 304 originally lived.
 
Well it wasn't hooked up forever and I never had leaks. I hooked it up right and first time running it hard I have problems. I failed to mention too I have a pool of oil behind water pump at base of distributor.


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Oil near distributed could be the front intake seal between the block my V8 is also vented thru the oil filler tube to the air cleaner the PCV valve is usually plugged into base of carb so it can pull a vacuum on the block internals and burn off any gases coming out of the motor


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Ive read on here where a bad PCV can cause leaks here. Any thoughts?


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Yes they can, pull it out of the engine shake it up and down you should here something rattling around inside(it's a check ball) if not then it's a bad pcv valve


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Here's my PCV. It rattles but it's very very loose in there. Like it flops around in there and there's no oily residue in the carb end of the hose.

ee3e41c47abb0fe18623d31803259e83.jpg


2a872b1bbfca85104c62af03ed5084c3.jpg


Here's where oil is pooling. At base of distributor. It's muddy water right now because I washed it last evening.

43839d096fe229106d29f49585688d54.jpg



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For giggles check your hose for a clog, you might need a gasket under the distributer base and take alook at the intake seal
Freakin auto correct

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Last edited:
I'm going to go with the distributor gasket. I know last year both of us were frequently adjusting our timing to get better performance at altitude, and if I remember correctly, didn't you only tighten your distributor hold down bolt enough to allow the distributor to turn with a little effort in order to avoid always having to use a wrench? I still have the make shift pointer and timing marks on my distributor cap! :D
 
Okay, no vacuum port on your PCV valve. PCV valve do rattle like its loose. Silly question, could it be in backwards? The carb should suck in and close in the other direction. Air comes into the engine through the oil filler cap.
 

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