Oil pressure problem

Oil pressure problem

cj7forfun

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South Carolina
Vehicle(s)
1978 jeep CJ7, 304 stock engine, TH400 3speed auto tran and not sure on the diffs or transfer case.
I just got my 78 CJ7 AMC 304 running after replacing the motorcraft carb and as the engine warms up the oil pressure drops. When i first get it cranked the gauge reads around 18-20psi and when the temp gauge gets to about 1/4 hot the pressure gauge drops to zero and it starts to smoke more than the usuall. Do you guys have any ideas or suggestions?
 
Sounds like the bearings in it are wore out man, probably time for a rebuild. As for it smokin you can determine that with a leak down test, its probably uneccesary though because it'll be took care of with the rebuild. But to give you an idea about it, its the valve seals or rings bad causing it to smoke. Id say the old motor is just wore out.

Sent from my DROID2
 
Was it doing this before you changed the carb?
If so than cheep is right about rebuild time.
 
Hi, I'm new to the site and found this thread about oil pressure. My AMC 304 seems to be building crankcase pressure and I have a little bit of oil sprayed on the hood but can't see any leaks. Also, I got a popping in my exaust that just started. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Also, I did notice some oil on the valve covers do you think I got anything loose allowing oil to bleed through the valve cover.
 
Hi, I'm new to the site and found this thread about oil pressure. My AMC 304 seems to be building crankcase pressure and I have a little bit of oil sprayed on the hood but can't see any leaks. Also, I got a popping in my exaust that just started. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Check your pcv for the crankcase press.
A popping in the exaust could be a bad valve. or a leaking exaust gasket.
 
Oil & Temperature Gauges need the correct sensors to work... part #s, info and tests

I just got my 78 CJ7 AMC 304 running after replacing the motorcraft carb and as the engine warms up the oil pressure drops. When i first get it cranked the gauge reads around 18-20psi and when the temp gauge gets to about 1/4 hot the pressure gauge drops to zero and it starts to smoke more than the usuall. Do you guys have any ideas or suggestions?



Hi,

I have a 78 CJ and had some fun / NOT trying to get my temp and press gauge to indicate and operate correctly had some very interesting turns... This comes up often.... but suprised its not every day but it does come up 2-5 times per month.

GOOD BACKROUND INFO.... always to put all the background info you can. When looking at oil pressure....... how many miles, has there been a rebuild and is ANYTHING in question with the engine rebuild. What oil specs and brand, what are your outside/air temps, what are the miles on engine. EX a motor with 200k will not have the same pressure as 50k usually. So tell us more....

The good news possible.... both the Oil Pres and Water Temp have issues with the sensors and gauges that are being sold. So I have some good info for you and since I have a 78 we should have the same gauge in the dash and 2" thick one and the dial face differs too. Actually the FSJ full size jeep and the CJ use different gagues and sensors.

When I installed my rebuilt AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , wanted to know oil press on start up, as we set the initial time, addressed any immediate needs during start up and break in. I had the jeep oil sender and gauge........ BUT I also put a mech gauge right next to the oil sender.... I could see the gauge under hood and during the full break in. I will show a few pics on how to do this. I also used the mech gauge to fine tune my jeep gauge/sender.

I tune my gauge / sender because it was dirty inside, the glass was cloudy, the indicator needed some new paint. I uncrimped my gauge... cleaned, painted needle, cleaned glass, pryed off the needle. During a cold start (max pres) I read the mech gauge and then made the jeep gauge read the same.... jut pushed the pointer on with the same reading... Worked perfect.... I am not suggesting you do this.... just FYI. I feel if you get the correct sensors and your engine is sound it will read correctly.

Read this info carefully and then test the sensors...

The old Jeep Sender and Gauge parts and information is kinda messed up at this time. I went thru this about a year ago and some of the best info by "john" had a mix up in the revision and mixed up the resistance ranges and dates for the oil gauge & senders.

The older CJ's of the 70's use a 2" thick gauge and their own sender and resitance ranges. The newer Cj's have a 1" gauge and a different sender and resistanc range. Further the FSJ, full size jeeps, for these same years have yet another gauge and sender combo. So it is very easy to get the wrong suff and pair up the wrong stuff.

I wrote this up some time ago and could not find my notes in word on my hard drive so will have to put some of this together with my hand written notes and test information. I also spent $100 on oil senders to get this info too..... so hope this will save my fellow CJ owners some time and money and get their oil indication working.

The 1970's CJs use a 2" gauge
The sender to use is from NAPA #OP6657
Expensive little bugger and is $60, maybe you can get a discount, and if needed can also consider getting the Crown Gauge & Sender because the cost will be similar. I will give Crown info after the Napa Info.
I hooked this up to a presure regulator and gauge and ploted the pressure and resistance ranges using a multimeter.

Pressure............Measured............spec range CJ 1979 FSM
0-3 psi..... ..........239 ohms...........234-246 ohms
3-7......................239..................146-219
20...............................................1 49-157
40........................108..................100 .5-105.5
80........................40....................32 .5 - 34.5


Some time is the 1980's Jeep CJ went to a 1" thick gauge and the oil sender resistance ranges are different also. Crown does have a sender that will work, Crown #3212004 and sells for about $20. Morris 4x4.com was selling at 10% discount for a forum discount at the time so it cost me $19 and $4 to ship. Morris and Crown at that time list this for 1975 to 1986 for all CJ , Wagoneers and THIS IS NOT TRUE. THE CROWN SENDER WILL ONLY WORK WITH THE CJ NARROW 1" GAUGE.

This is what I measured with the Crown sender and a presure regulator, gauge, and multimeter.

Pressure............Measured............spec range
0-3 psi..... ..........70 ohms...........68-70 ohms
20........................33......................
40........................23..................21-25
60........................14....................
80.........................9....................7-13


FURTHER caution is the CJ and Full size use a different gauge and sender. I went thru about 15 years of Jeep Field Service Manuals and they do list the resistance ranges and have pics of the oil gauge face. The 1" and 2" gauges do have different faces. I would measure the oil sender pres/resistance range before installing any.

The Crown gauge is in the $20-30 range is I remember right. So it might be less expensive to get the CRown Gauge & Sender compaired to the $60 Napa sender needed for the 2" gauge. I have also been looking for a spair 2" CJ oil gauge and they are not easy to come by. Just thought I would mention this option as well.

TEMP SENDERS are also a issue. I purched 3-4 inexpensive units and the temp/reistance range was not correct. I ordered Napa's premium unit, double the price, and boiled it in water prior to install to test, can also be returned as new if does not pass test, and the boil waster is 212 Deg F or very close and will have a resistance value about 35 ohms. Take it out of boiling water FAST put on paper towel, something that is not a heat sink, and measure the resistanc with a multimeter. This needs to be done FAST you will see the resistance change in seconds. Thought I would throw this into the conversation.

My Temp gauge was bairly reading with PO set up. That temp sender and 3-4 more all failed till I tried the premium version. That one measured correctly.

I have seen the pressure and temp issues dozens of times.

Hope that helps.





PS
sometime in the future I will complete this with pics and a full write up
 
Hi, I'm new to the site and found this thread about oil pressure. My AMC 304 seems to be building crankcase pressure and I have a little bit of oil sprayed on the hood but can't see any leaks. Also, I got a popping in my exaust that just started. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
like old dog said it probably needs a pcv valve. you should really start your own thread on the subject, along with any other questions you have:chug: welcome to the site. :ww:
 
I just got my 78 CJ7 AMC 304 running after replacing the motorcraft carb and as the engine warms up the oil pressure drops. When i first get it cranked the gauge reads around 18-20psi and when the temp gauge gets to about 1/4 hot the pressure gauge drops to zero and it starts to smoke more than the usuall. Do you guys have any ideas or suggestions?

Sounds like you may have a combination of things working here but I have to agree it may be time for a rebuild. My bet on the oil pressure issue is the front timing chain cover is worn at the oil pump gears. AMC 304 to 401 timing chain covers are an aluminum alloy piece that incorporate the oil pump and filter holder. The oil pump gears wear the softer alloy cover and if the gap tolerances around the gears, which have to be pretty close to spec, become to large you have problems. (Too much gap from spec and the oil pressure will be low.) Most likely the oil pressure is ok when the motor is first started as the oil is cold and a little more “thick” but as things heat up the oil thins plus as we all know from grade school science things expand when hot causing the gap at the oil pump gears to expand also adding to the oil pressure woes. Expansion could be in play too when it comes to the motor smoking more as it warms up. The valve stem holes and seals in the head may be expanding allowing oil to run down the stem and into the cylinders, hence the smoke as the oil burns.
 
thank you guys for all of your suggestions. To answer some of those background questions, im not really sureabout the milage the odometer reads 68,569 but since there is no extra digit on it im not sure if its 168 or 268 or hopefully not 368,000. Im pretty sure there hasn't been a rebuild done and im in South Carolina so the temps run from high 30's to 60's right now. thanks again for everyones help and i really hope there isn't a rebuild in my near future.
 

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