Questions and Pictures.

Questions and Pictures.
I

Intentionally Chewy

Jeeper
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Location
Alamogordo, NM
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7
I'm going to apologize in advance for the pictures being so large, I have no idea how to scale them down.

I bought this Jeep (1984 CJ7 ) nine months ago and I've taken it off road quite a bit. The guy that owned it before me was trying to turn it into a rock crawler and I have no idea why he stopped or sold it. For $3,200 I wasn't going to ask too many questions lest I persuade him to keep it. I don't know what all was done to it other than the lift and tires. I'm pretty sure the Transmission and Transfer Case are stock, as is the engine. I have pictures of the axles and I would like to know if they are stock or something bigger. I'm planning on welding in a full roll cage, five-point harnesses, engine/Transmission swap (fuel injected), and axles (Dana 44 ) if these are stock.

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Well...Some observations I made, I'm guessing it wanders all over the road? with the stock front axle and those lift shackles the pinion is pointing straight at the T case leaving 0 or neg. caster. The sway bar appears to be hanging in disconnect mode, Does have the stock AMC20 in the rear and without a shot of the hub can't tell if axles have been messed with.
I do like all the dirt on the ground under it, been sitting there long? bit of oil stain too.:D Looks like you signed up for the same project as the rest of us.;)
 
It does indeed wander, how do I fix that? The swaybar is always connected when I get on the road, it's disconnected now because I forgot to reconnect it after showing a friend how to disconnect (and the difference in flex when disconnected). The last time I took it out I broke an engine mount somehow. I didn't even notice until I cranked it up the next weekend and there was a MASSIVE puddle of oil. I popped the hood and the engine mount on the passenger side was busted and the oil filter was crushed. The back axle has been "lincoln locked." It's been sitting for a little over a month. Makes me cry every weekend when I can't take it out but I'll be fixing it in the next few weeks. Yep, I bought this specifically because I wanted a project. This isn't my first Jeep, just my oldest. Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to do a fuel injected engine swap, or just rebuild this one and slap on a truck avenger carburetor. Both the Transmission and Transfer Case need a rebuild badly. The Transmission pops out of gear on all but the slightest bumps. The axles will definitely be changed now that I know they're stock.
 
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Stock axles arent the end of the world! Mine hase the stock axles although I am undergoing an upgrade to the axle itself on the stock AMC housing. You are just gona have to put your prioritys in order...fix the Transmission and T case at the top, steering, etc.
As for your steering woes go you need to read,
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/troubleshooting-correcting-your-steering-4106/
There is also much engine info to sort through here on the site, I also plan to go EFI but as a mod to my original AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .
 
I know stockers aren't the end of the world, but like I said before, I bought this to be a project. So pretty much anything I can do, I want to do. They're towards the bottom of the list for upgrades and there is a good chance I'll end up breaking one before I get to that part of the list. I looked into the EFI mod for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (swapping for the 4.0 head) but I was told that if the engine has more than about 120,000 miles that it won't work. The odometer says it has 165,000 but I already know it's way off. I've driven more than 500 miles but the clock has only rolled about 140. There is a local shop that will bore the engine out, do some head work, and put in new pistons for $600. If the Holly Truck Avenger is as good as the website claims I shouldn't need to go EFI. Though if I get it bored I could probably do the head swap at that point (I just thought about that). I just need to learn how to set the carburetor for high altitude since the place I usually go off road is 8,600 feet (Cloudcroft, New Mexico).
 
I was told that if the engine has more than about 120,000 miles that it won't work.

Some one explain this to me? It makes no sence at all.:wtf:​
 
IOPort51 said:
I was told that if the engine has more than about 120,000 miles that it won't work. ​





Some one explain this to me? It makes no sence at all.:wtf:​
Click to expand...

I read that as it does not make sense to do on a tired motor?
 
That's just what I read online, that if the engine has more than about 120,000 miles than the head swap won't work. I don't remember why, or if they even specified why. Sasquach used the same wording they did, "tired motor." The article went on to explain that tired meant about 120,000 or more. They said the cylinders start to get an oval shape to them or something like that. I tried to find the article again but I can't. If it's wrong then awesome, that will actually make my life a lot easier.
 
I beleive what they are saying is it makes no sense to do a lot of top end work and upgrades when your bottom end is worn out, you could still do the work but it would be foolish and wasted money.
 
Sasquach said:
I read that as it does not make sense to do on a tired motor?
Click to expand...

It may not be that big a advantage to putting one on a new motor but the increase in compression is negligible and the HP gain is not that great. I just don’t like being told things won’t work with out a reason, especially when I have already done it. :cool:
 
Sasquach said:
I beleive what they are saying is it makes no sense to do a lot of top end work and upgrades when your bottom end is worn out, you could still do the work but it would be foolish and wasted money.
Click to expand...
Who were "they"?:cool:
 
Intentionally Chewy said:
I don't know about the compression, I haven't checked. If I do the head swap it'll be after it's rebuilt and bored. That should fix just about any compression problems.
Click to expand...

If you do that don't have the stock head reworked like I did.:confused:. Go directly to the 4.0 head.
 
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