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Re-Wire / New Gauges and Dash / switch panel project

Re-Wire / New Gauges and Dash / switch panel project

JR74CJ5

Missing-Presumed Wheeling
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Location
Plumas Lake, CA, USA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Hi all,

Getting together a plan and parts for complete re-wire of the jeep.

Current idea(s):

Want to incorporate the following ideas together...

1) Painless or EZ wiring kit with fuse box
2) new Dash design - have seen a few good ones on here, will post soon with examples and final design.
3) switch and LED indicator light panels - Like from 12v guy's site - but custom made myself
4) new gauges.

This all stems from multiple wiring issues that keep popping up, mainly with the charging circuit.

So hoping for some feedback with any of the above items from you all who have done any or all stages of the project i'm looking at.

Here are a few links of materials I'm looking at.

EZ Wiring harness - More universal than the painless, perhaps more customizing - Not sure if I want the smaller 12 circuit or the larger 22 ciruit - have a lot of added accessories, as well as planned additional things later, so gives me room to grow. Wiring Harness

Painless Wiring Kit - Pretty basic, more expensive, but more vehicle specific already. 22 Circuit Classic Customizable 1974 & Earlier Jeep CJ HarnessDetails | Painless Performance

Gauges I'm looking at - Dolphin Gauges

Switch Ideas - I would customize - Multi Switch Panels

Dash ideas - multiple from this site - heres a few photos:

14070d1367554228-custom-dash-cj-project-dscn9367.jpg


13752d1365221604-custom-dash-cj-project-p1090898.jpg


images


Others too, those are just some of the designs i like to start from...

:chug:
 
JR, having seen your rig pics and read your run reports, I would think you would want something simple and easy to fix, especially on the trail. That should be the way it was designed to be in the first place. Hopefully you have some wiring work skills to develop something you can live with and make last. From what I have seen the CJ is underwired to begin with like having a poor ground system with undersize wires for the current being used. In my opinion those pics do appear quite complex, but its nice to know just how your rig is working.
 
As of now, my horn doesn't work, turn signals don't work, there's enough black tape and extra wires on my jeep to make a space ship out of... and gauges that sometimes work, sometimes don't, don't light up, and a nest to get trapped in if I try to do anything under my dash, that is currently all screwed up as far as placement of gauges, radio, heater controls, light switches etc.

It's time for a change... and not the type Obama... :eek: nevermind... lol :D

:chug:
 
Looking at the wiring schematics in a Haynes manual, things do get a bit more complex between the '73 and 74' models,(and as the years go on) especially at the firewall connections and fuse area. So maybe one of those aftermarket wiring kits that you can get. I think you would want to go for quality here and make sure it has a schematic to go with it so you understand where everything is for repair and modification purposes. I try to eliminate black tape with heat shrink tubing, using that different size wire shroud and zip ties to clean things up. Make solder connections with silver bearing rosin core solder as it flows a bit better. Do the work after the snow falls in the Sierras at least.
 
I ordered everything up :dbanana:

This weekend I'll begin the tear down.

Ordered:

EZ Wiring Kit - EZ 21 - 18 Fuse 21 Circuit Harness
Dolphin Gauges - All 6 (Tach / Speedo / Temp / Fuel / Volts / Oil Pressure)
Few 30 AMP relays
Switches
Rock-Lights From Pirate 4x4 vendor (they're cool little boogers. Can't wait to see them hooked up...)

So the fun will begin this weekend. Will be updating my build thread with the work, and keeping any questions here with photo or two as well :D

Build thread link: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/jrs-74-cj5-fix-build-i-go-11231/index12.html#post195578

:chug:
 
I went with painless but it was overkill. Really well marked and he like but the EZ should be fine.
 
I am going to remove my dash for painting. But I cant get the wiper switch knob off. Can someone tell me how to remove this knob.
 
If I was going to rewire from the get go I think the first thing I would do would be to relocate the fuse block to some place reachable. the glove box is the first place that comes to mind.:D
 
I am going to remove my dash for painting. But I cant get the wiper switch knob off. Can someone tell me how to remove this knob.
As I recall there is a little tang on the rear of the knob underneath that must be moved forward.
 
I am going to remove my dash for painting. But I cant get the wiper switch knob off. Can someone tell me how to remove this knob.
As I recall there is a little tang on the rear of the knob underneath that must be moved forward.

Yes either that or a set screw... Can't tell you for sure. My wiper knob was already broken / missing. Some of the dash knobs on my jeep have a small set screw though. Not sure on your year / knobs.

If I was going to rewire from the get go I think the first thing I would do would be to relocate the fuse block to some place reachable. the glove box is the first place that comes to mind.:D

The new dash doesn't have a glove box anymore, but that was top of the list... :D I'm putting in in the engine compartment near the clutch and brake master cylinders.
 
Well if it gets submerged, then the intake will be sucking water too ;)

But I plan to make a good shield of some sort to stop the dust and mud from tires etc slashing up... Will need to stay out of the deep water :D
 
I am going to remove my dash for painting. But I cant get the wiper switch knob off. Can someone tell me how to remove this knob.

I believe its a small button on the back part of the switch behind the dash. Hold it in and the knob with the rod attached can pull out of the switch. Then you just remove the lock nut holding the switch to the dash.
 

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