Ready to start servicing my new 1956 CJ5

[burrpenick]

I need some tips on changing the leaking master cyl.I assume I'll need to remove the two small fluid lines and then the two bolts that hold it on. Is this done from the bottom or inside the cab??????
Also need a verification that the cartridge for the oil filter is beside the valve cover. Is there anything tricky about changing that? Is there a hole in the skid plate for the oil drain plug? Whats the oil capacity?
I need to purchase a master cylinder, two oil filter cartridges, possibly an air filter foam, and one headlight trim ring.......any members have these items for sale? Where do you suggest I purchase them if not.

Thanks, George in Spruce Pine NC

 

[Sasquach]

Congrates on the NEW ride Burrpenick!
Before you can start ordering parts you will have to determine if what you have is original equipment. Get some pics if possible, sounds like the brakes might be original and if so yes the MS is bolted to the inner frame rail with the pressure line toward the front and pedal rod in the rear. Yes the Limited access is from below, the door in the floor board is for fluid check/fill.
The oil filter if it is the f-134 came in several variations and may have been an option or later add on in your model year. there are a couple diff types of filters, one is a servicable cartridge type and the other a spin on type like any newer car. Need to figure out what it is and a visual tells all. The normal location on the f-134 is passenger side forward and high near the valve cover, if it is enclosed in an orange housing it is the element type and not a auto parts store item.
I can recomend Walck's for vintage jeep parts, they are as good as it gets in my view.

 

[Sasquach]

Oh and fill out your profile as best you can.

 

[burrpenick]

A big thanks for taking the time to help...............

I have c couple more questions. Yes, my jeep has the canister oil filter-I just wanted to verify that the cylinder I thought was it was the one up by the valve cover.

I was pretty sure that master cyl had to come off from the bottom, and it looks tight. THe 2 mounting bolts look like there is only about 1" possible clearance to unscrew - is that enough for them to release the cylinder? Didnt I see two small hydro lines coming out of the cylinder? Do you know the size? Figured I had better get a line wrench as I dont have one here in NC with me.
I will check that vendor for the parts.

George

 

[Sasquach]

My knowledge is more based on my 64 3B but pretty sure your 65 CJ5 has the same brake set up although yours may be the twin reservoir type, does it have just the small about 1 1/4" threaded plug on top for fluid fill? and is accessed thru the round floor board cover?
Mine is removable by pulling the bolts out and dropping it down, definetly not much fun to do though.

 

[burrpenick]

Mine is a 56 CJ5 and that looks like the cyl; it is accessed for fluid from the top with a small plug. I suppose I should get a line wrench, dont have mine with me. Do you know the size of those brake lines?

PS: I lucked out and discovered the seller had the missing headlight ring and will send it to me. Will order the brake master from Rock Auto for $50 to the door and can get the oil filter cartridge from Advanced for $6 in stock......Kaiser Willys wanted $14. Guess I just need to clean up the air filter and I s/b set. OPPS, almost forgot there is no gasket between the air horn and carb and will want to flush the cooling system. Anything special on greasing the u joints? What about checking two differentials.....thats a new one for me!

 

[Sasquach]

65...56...Oh ya sorry it's a 56, pretty much the same for the most but my bad. Get yourself a manual, a reprint of the factory service manual or an original would be best for your model and year. Let me see..front differential fluid, knuckle lube or pudding,grease steering linkage, grease U joints, T case gear oil, Transmission oil, rear driveshaft grease, rear diff fluid, grease zerks at rear axle ends, engine oil and if I did'nt mis something your good to go! For the zerk/grease fittings you kind of have to get a feel for how many pumps or keep an eye out for when grease starts oozing out, a U joint may only take one pump but a steering ball joint might take 3 and you will get an idea as you go.
As for the diffs you need to pull the cover to drain them and a new gasket or some silicone will be needed to reseal them then just refill with 90wt gear oil.

 

[burrpenick]

wow, thats alot of lubing! I figured as much, but will have to study the front end parts as I have no experience with these things, same for the rear axle....hope the grease fittings are easy to spot.
I think I noticed a drain plug on the front diff. If that is the case, it makes it easy- kind of like the new Japanese stuff.
Thanks for your help. George