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Rear axle angle question

Rear axle angle question

Flex BT

Senior Jeeper
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Location
Chesterfield, VA
Vehicle(s)
1981 CJ7. I6, Weber 38/38 with TEAMRUSH upgrade. T5, Dana 300TC, Dana 30 / AMC 20, True trac w/ 4.10s. 33" All terrains

Blue and rust colored.
I finally found a Dana 44 with 4.10 gears in it to replace the 2.72 I have in place (with a lead on a front 4.10 to follow). The rear 4.10 axle does not have spring perches installed and I do have a buddy who can help me weld them on. My question is... is there a reason to have them welded on at a 0 degree angle and use shims or should I just have them welded on at the angle that will give me the proper alignment with my Transfer Case ? With my lift I feel like I should have them welded at the angle and now worry about shimming but tell me what consequences I'm not considering as I lack experience in this kind of thing.
 
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I would weld them at the angle you need. That is better than shimming to get the angle you need. Shims work, that is what I did with steel shims. You have a clean slate to start with.
 
I would weld them at the angle you need. That is better than shimming to get the angle you need. Shims work, that is what I did with steel shims. You have a clean slate to start with.

Yes, weld at the angle you need since you can without trouble. Later, if you make other changes requiring angular adjustment you can use the steel shims (or reweld) if you want easy...BUT do make certain you have the needed angle for the type of u-jiont config you have (dbl cardan vs single U).
 
Weld the 'pads' at the angle you should use for your application.
LG
 
Thanks, all!

I guess email notification is broken, huh?
 
Not sure what lift you are running but if the angle is pretty steep now would be a good time to concider double CV driveshaft. That ended eating u-joints for me. :D
 
Yeah, the price tag keeps on climbing. Tom Woods wants $300+ of my US dollars. I'm looking at a lot of overtime coming up :)
 
I finally found a Dana 44 with 4.10 gears in it to replace the 2.72 I have in place (with a lead on a front 4.10 to follow). The rear 4.10 axle does not have spring perches installed and I do have a buddy who can help me weld them on. My question is... is there a reason to have them welded on at a 0 degree angle and use shims or should I just have them welded on at the angle that will give me the proper alignment with my Transfer Case ? With my lift I feel like I should have them welded at the angle and now worry about shimming but tell me what consequences I'm not considering as I lack experience in this kind of thing.

What degree of 'Angle' are you talking about?

A degree or two of Caster Angle is usually a good thing,
but if you do that, you are also changing the PINION ANGLE at the same time.

Caster or Pinion? Which angle are you looking to change, since both change when you reweld spring perches?

---------------------------------------

Now, an 'Option' that most don't consider for some reason...
The spend TONS on 'High Angle Drive Shafts' and all that other stuff,
And yet, some grinding equipment and some welding,
Which you are already welding... And grinding...
Will net you EXACTLY what you want.

Simply grind loose the outer 'C' that connects ball studs to steering knuckle,
Set your pinion angle, weld down the spring perches to the axle tubes,

Then set your CASTER on the outer 'C' and weld them back down.

BOTH problems solved at once, and you get EXACTLY what you wanted without Proprietary aftermarket parts or replacement parts.
 
Rear axle, pointing the pinion at the xfer case The question was just if I should use shims or weld the perches on at the proper angle in the first place. After seeing some problems with the Dana 44 purchase I've found someone local who is going to do a re-gearing for me. When I get the axle back I will most likely be getting a double CV drive shaft and re-shimming to the new angle.
 
Assuming you have a 4" lift to clear those 33s, shimming up your rear axle with a CV type driveshaft will allow you to find out just how much angle you really need. A drawback is that it will probably take quite a large angle and this will cost you a lot of ground clearance if you really want it. This is where rotating the axle and rewelding those pads in position is a better way to go, it also points that rear u-joint out of harms way. Even better to correct the front axle this way too.
 

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