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Removing Axle

Removing Axle

AeroMoto

Jeeper
Posts
110
Thanks
0
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle(s)
1973 CJ5, AMC 360, 4" Rancho lift
I've found a donor axle from a 78 CJ5 to swap my drums out for discs (I have a 73). It's my understanding that I just need to swap out everything from the knuckles out. The donor axle looks to have everything but the lockouts. Can I just use my current ones?

Also, how hard is it to remove the axle? I was planning on just taking the whole axle out, and doing the swap at home instead of taking the pieces off the axle (and to prevent missing parts). I've never done it and it's at one of those pick n pull places. I'll be doing this by myself most likely, so what should I look out for/bring to make sure everything goes smoothly? I don't have an cordless impact, wish I did...
 
Depends on how the jeep is sitting. Is it blocked up off the ground?
Wheels off ? Front driveline attached ? I would remove front shackle and rear spring bolt and take every thing they will let you have. Otherwise you will be in for a little more work.That '78 might have a sway bar,I would grab it if possible. Try to disconnect brake lines at frame and save. We are talking about a complete Dana 30 front axle right ? Basic tools and a 3/8" and 1/2" socket set should do it. :) Mike S .
 
I'd swap the complete axle. Bring the following tools. Battery powered sawzal hammer and adjustable wrench. I guess you will need a jack and jack stands also.

1) jack up the front and place on jack stands
2) sawzal the shackles in half
3) sawzal the shock stems
4) sawzal the top middle of the ujoints. They wil pop loose. Use adjustable wrench to turn ubolt halves over the axle tubes
5) sawzal the brake lines
6) sawzal the drag link
7) give your self a hernia trying to load it your self

You may want want try to unbolt the drag link and see if you can keep it just incase there is any differences between the 2 axles.

If you don't have one invest in a good cordless grinder and sawzal. I like dewalt brand. I have a set that's about 10 years old and still runs great even though I beat the hell out of em.

Well there's my way of removing an axle shouldn't take long with this method.
 
Oh if you don't have a battery powered sawzal bring a hack saw and do the same thing. If you want to me a little more gentle bring a socket set and long breaker bar and remove every thing but still cut the ujoints.. It will be a lot easier then I bolting it:
 
It's up on rims underneath the leaf springs, so I may have to do something about that. Wheels off the ground. No jacks or cutting torches allowed. Front driveline is intact. I'm thinking I'm going to take the whole shebang, and probably the tie rods too. Which brings up a question, will a 78 tie rod fit a 73?

I'm not planning on putting the newer axle in, just swapping out the parts that need it. In all my joy I forgot to even check the gear ratio. I also plan on taking the master cylinder and proportioning valve...but where is the proportioning valve located? Next to the master cylinder?

I don't have a cordless sawzall...but I think I need one now! Woohoo! I'm not for sure how much sawzalling I want to do, I just hate cutting into things that could be used by someone else. But the worst of it looked to the shocks and leaf spring bolts, so those will probably get cut off. Now if only the weather will cooperate this weekend! Thanks for all the help!

:chug:
 
I don't know about your PYP but mine will not allow any power tools or jacks. A good thing about just taking the knuckles id that they are easier to carry.

The whole axle won't be that bad. hacksaw the u bolts and pull it out the side. I hate to say cut the brake lines, someone may need them. I have never actually seen a CJ in a PYP.:D
 
I'm a big fan of reusing things also but 38yo brake lines, u bolts and shocks probably should not be reused. There's a good chance when you try to seperated the soft from hard line it will brake off in he soft line making it garbage any way.

A pyp yard that doesn't allow a jack sounds ridiculous. If the axle is under the leaf springs you don't have to mess with the shackles
 
I'm a big fan of reusing things also but 38yo brake lines, u bolts and shocks probably should not be reused. There's a good chance when you try to seperated the soft from hard line it will brake off in he soft line making it garbage any way.

A pyp yard that doesn't allow a jack sounds ridiculous. If the axle is under the leaf springs you don't have to mess with the shackles

Apparently some idiot dropped a car on themselves some where along the line. I could see some fool pulling the Transmission out of a truck with one or maybe two bumper jacks under the end. Remember, there are still people that think putting a car on cement blocks and bricks is a good idea.:cool:
 
I could see some fool pulling the Transmission out of a truck with one or maybe two bumper jacks under the end. Remember, there are still people that think putting a car on cement blocks and bricks is a good idea.:cool:
Kind of reminds me of working on one on the trail with a high lift, and some rocks.:D
 
Follow down the steel brake lines coming out of the master cylinder to find the proportioning valve. Mine is bolted to the inside of the driver side frame rail, directly below the master cylinder.

I believe I'd rather purchase a new PV instead of using one pulled off a vehicle in the bone yard. Just keep in mind what vehicle year set up you're ordering for if you source a new one.

Good luck with the swap. Sounds like a good upgrade.
 

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