Replacing rear floor and wheel wells

[thistle3585]

The PO butchered up the rear floor and wheel wells of my CJ5 . I want to pull the wheel wells and the floor out and replace them with components from C2C. I haven't any experience with this but I'm willing to give it a shot. A couple questions. What is the best method to separate the floor and the wells from the tub? Is it possible to cut out the rear end and install a tailgate? Is there anything else that I should address while I have this area removed? I am going to do some work on the frame at the same time.

 

[PaRenegade]

Your opening a can of worms ya know! The best way to separate them that I have found is to find as many spot welds as you can and drill them out. Then use a flat blade screwdriver or an air hammer with a chisel type tip and separate as you go, locating any missed welds along the way. Depends on the exact situation and condition you have. I'm assuming he spot or plug welded things together. If it's a continuous weld you may have to just cut it apart and weld up a new flange.
Pics would help with advice.

 

[thistle3585]

Here are some photos. The last 12" of the floor were cut out and a piece welded in that goes across the bottom in the back and up the sides of the wheel well on either side. Then there are two cut outs in the floor just above the support where the gas tank mounts.

What is the feasibility of putting a new floor in over top of the old? I thougth about doing body work on the wheel wells but not sure how well it will hold up. I was planning on putting Upol Raptor over the entire thing when done.

Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

 

[Incommando]

You would not be the first person to put new pans over the original floor. I have heard it is easier if you use a hammer or such to beat down the original floor for clearance.

 

[CJ jammin]

My P.O. layered the front of the floor. The space in between hold lots of dirt and moisture. A good way to accelerate rust. That's my winter project to remove the old and put a good floor in. I did my XJ's whole passenger area floor last year and it came out great. Even the hand formed patches worked out really well. The secret was practice fit-ups, patience, and YouTube I started out uncertain, and ended up having fun.

 

[thistle3585]

You would not be the first person to put new pans over the original floor. I have heard it is easier if you use a hammer or such to beat down the original floor for clearance.

So, I'm thinking patch the wheel wells and lay down a new floor over the old.
If I were to go that route, would a panel adhesive do the job? Based on the photo of the pan, it looks like I'd need to grind a lip off the circumference of the new pan. Is there a rust inhibiting paint I could use on the sides where the pans join?

 

[Incommando]

I helped a friend hang new quarters on a 2001 Dodge 2500 a month or two ao and he used panel adhesive. I have never had first hand experience with it. To say the least I am very impressed with it.

 

[PaRenegade]

The problem with putting a new floor over the old floor is the contour ribs. It will never lay flat over top of your old floor, thereby creating an airspace. Which is okay if it's a sealed space but that means plugging every hole in your existing floor so they don't let dirt and moisture in. You might end up further ahead if you cut out the old and weld in the new, unless you patch everything from the outside of the body but access might be an issue.
Now if your replacing the wheel wells that will give you new fresh metal to weld a new floor pan to.