Surface Rust

[CoreyYoungCj577]

So i havent got my body tub off yet i still have to drop the gas tank and take the dash off, and remove the rear seat then i figured id do the fenders before i took the tub off ha.

But i have been noticing alot of surface rust under the frame, nothing major yet... except i'm going to need new shackels leaf springs and most likely axels but hey i planned that anyways.

My real question is if i sand down the frame what kind of compound or agent should i put on it to stop the rust? keep it mind later down the line im going to rhino line the whole frame.

Thanks for the help as always guys.

 

[CJ]

TR did a great write up on this stuff... -->> http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f7/rust-killer-actually-seems-work-1860/

 

[mylittlecj5]

I've been using the heck out of Eastwood's 3 part rust killer/top treatments. Well, OK I haven't used the topcoat yet, but I might eventually! :laugh:
I am impressed with how the rust converter works. Simple prep, knock off the loose stuff with a wire brush, spray the metal prep over it and wipe dry. Spray the converter on in 2 coats and leave it protected from rain/moisture for 48 hours. Turns to a hard black finish that can be painted over.

EW Rust Converter and Aerosol Kit

they also have full kits available, with metal prep, converter and topcoat. Thats what I ordered.

 

[CJ]

Eastwood rocks!

(nuff said!)

 

[Petescj]

Below is the last bit of rust I have on the Scrambler. I just didnt get to it this year. Question is could I use that Eastwood product and fill over it till Spring? I dont want it getting worse over Winter.

 

[mylittlecj5]

I'd say so...I did an area on my tailgate that was just as bad or worse than that.
Hey, I'll go snap a pic of it for ya to see what it looks like.

Here we go...The black is where I just wiped the loose stuff off with a wire brush, then cleaned the area. Then I sprayed the Rust Converter on it and left it (for about 1.5 months now I think :laugh
The black is flaking off a little, but there is no rust showing at all even there.
I should have top-coated it a couple days after treatment, but it got buried in the mess I call the 'Tin Garage'.

OK the pics came out crappy again...I really need to buy a good camera instead of using the cell phone...<sigh>

 

[Petescj]

Ok , Thanx a bunch. I'll have to try that out before it really gets crappy out .

 

[BajaEdition]

Somehow I feel lucky to live in SoCal, rust issues are not large here.
But they do abound. I think we get real lax about it here though.

Now having said that, I have found that the best way to keep away rust is to do a great surface prep before applying a rust inhibitor. I use a wire brush then sand and once I have done that prime a bit and go into the house. Once I have rested a bit and have the concentration back I am right back out to the project to get serious about prepping the area. Off comes that primer and we go into every knock and cranny looking for rust and get it out of there. What ever it takes you must get every little speck of rust to prevent it's return.
Now how would I know that living in such a dry climate? We get a lot of east coast junk brought out here by guys wanting to come out and live the CA dream. They bring out a lot of stuff and sell it here when times get rough for them. And guess who gets to clean up those rigs? Yep we need to go into places we do not naturally get rust here and kill it.
I think we all who mess with vehicles have our horror stories. I can think of a few projects that turned into dust before my eyes.
Anyway, the best advice I can say is do not get lax about preparation just because you are going to use a rust killer. you will need to get in there anyway and brush and sand till it shines. The one patch you decide to just cover may be thick enough for the rust killer not too be able to convert.
A few extra hours can save bubbles in a paint job, a custom paint job being ruined in a year by needing to go down and rekill rust, or having to pull a body to get back into a frame and prep an area.
Another point is to learn to weld, both electric and gas, a proper job with deep rust usually means cutting out some metal and welding in new. I like to arc on frames, mig in lighter stuff,( such as seat brackets, body tabs, or hangers and such) but the best way to do body repair is with a gas torch, an electric welder is way to hot and ripples the metal. A proper weld is actually stronger than the parent metal. It takes only a few weekends of practice working with a bunch or scrounged up metal remnents to learn good enough to mig. From there a few more weekends when you need to learn to arc, and after those two the skills you have will make a gas rig simple.

 

[ballzdeep]

If you want to keep the frame good, What i did on mine was wire wheel the frame, sand down with 80 in the tight spots, then I used Rustoleum in a spray can, it looks great and works great as well.