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Swapping in a 4.0

Swapping in a 4.0

jeepn4evr

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Location
CO
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5 - 258 from an 85 CJ7, hopefully soon to be replaced with a FI 4.0 HO from a 96 Cherokee, T-18 tranny, stock brakes, gears & axles (d30f & D44r), hopefully soon to be replaced with wide tracks & disc brakes. Body restored
I know people have done this & its pretty easy, however the big thing I am worried about is the wiring to get it to run right, fuel pump etc etc. The little big stuff. I am hoping to be able to do the swap in the next few months, depending on money. Looking for info from ones that have done it as well as any internet pages you can direct me to for help.

I already have a 4.0 from a 96 Cherokee complete with the computer sitting on a stand. I have replaced the oil pan gasket as well as the rear main seal. I plan on replacing spark plugs & wires even though previous owner said they were done shortly before I took posession. What else should I do? Any recommended intake or distrubutor upgrades? Anything else? I won't have a lot of cash to put into this but at same time wouldn't mind doing a few things to get petter performance etc.

I know I will need a new CPS either one on the harmonic balancer or a modified flywheel. Also this had an automatic tranny behind it & will now have a manual. Will that make any difference to the computer? Can I throw out the emission (exhaust & O2) sensors or does the engine need that to run right?

This is going into a 1974 CJ5 with a T-18 behind it.
 
I put a freshly rebuilt 88 Cherokee 4.0L engine into my CJ7 . It is all stock with following exceptions:

1. rebuilt 1995 4.0 head (flows the best out of all the heads)
2. Mopar MPI kit (with manual computer)
3. Borla stainless headers and cat back exhaust
4. Be Cool radiator with Flexalite electric fan
5. PA alternator (120Amp)

After getting their airlock out of the fuel system and dialing in the distributor, she fired right up.

One current issue: there is "ticking". This is from the pushrods being too short/no pre-load. I used the original new pushrods, but didn't check the length. It drives, but there is power loss. I will be putting the correct length pushrods in this Fall. I also have a new set of roller rockers to install.

I have the OEM 5 spd Borg-warner Transmission . It bolted right up. Not sure about your T-18 .

As far as your computer question goes, I can only tell you from my Mustang 5.0L knowledge: it doesn't matter. For the Mustang, the computer communicates with the Transmission for line pressure when using the a/c, etc. However, I am using the same computer from a manual setup, on an automatic setup. Unless you have an electronic Transmission , your manual computer is fine.
 
Good to know. Thanks.

Couple things I want to do is convert the air conditioning unit (think its a York but haven't looked at in a while) to OBA. At one time I found someone local that can help me with that but lost his contact info. Also since my Jeep has a body lift I want to lift the engine & tranny for more belly clearence. Transmission now has 2 in blocks between the fram & cross member which I would like to eleminate, but have only found 1 in over stock engine mounts(or thought I did. Can't find it on MORE's page now). Anyone ever done this? Can I make up 2in over stock engine mounts? Or put in a spcer if I find the 1 in mounts?
 
I have looked at that conversion as well. I have an ARB pump and tank; so I won't need the a/c. I am going to use that position to put the alternator. Does your alternator sit low on the engine? There is a conversion to use the a/c bracket and move the alternator there.

I also put a 2" body lift on my CJ, but did not move the engine or tranny. you just have to be careful moving the powertrain higher in the frame, as this changes your center of gravity, and will cause you to roll easier. You can use skid plates perhaps.
 

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