T-18a conversion kit question?

It looks like the same kit I put in earlier this year. My T-18 came out of '76 J20 Jeep pickup. Parts Mike is one of the best parts places I know and they will give you plenty of good advice on installation too. Not only do they sell the parts but they are Jeep mechanics as well. If they say it's what you need you can count on it. I had to get a customized stud bolt to go into the bell housing where the clutch pedal comes through so it would fit right. If you ask them they will throw it in free. I had to get a new clutch plate to because the spline count on the T-15 I was replacing was different. A couple of things I learned the hard way putting it back together were, 1. Lube the new parts well when putting it together. The new brass ring sticks and won't come together right because the spring can't slide it into place. 2. If the T-18 has an oil splash ring inside the Transmission where the input shaft comes through, remove it before you put it together. The new input shaft has a drain plug instead and the thickness of the splash ring will make it impossible to put the outer snap ring on. Good luck. It was the best modification I made on my '81 CJ5 .

Tommy
 
What about the TCase? I assume we are talking about Dana 20 . It should work.

Tommy what TCase were you dealing with? Didn't you have a Dana 300 before the swap? Did you install a Dana 20 along with your T-18 ?
 
I just read a thing saying with the conversion you needed a whole new clutch and pressure plate, seeing as i already blew my money on amc stuff:censored:, how dumb of an idea is it to just leave the long input shaft on. Its going in a CJ7 with SOA?
 
The clutch pressure plate you use depends on the flywheel you use. You are not changing the flywheel so use the pressure plate intended for your jeep.
The clutch friction plate depends on the input shaft of the Transmission . Of course you also want to have the diameter of the pressure plate match the friction plate. When I put a Ford T-18 into a CJ7 i used a Jeep pressure plate and a ford friction plate.
You say the T-18a came from a 78 full size Cherokee? What engine did that have?
Yes, I agree. Don't replace the input shaft if you don't have to.

EDIT: the issue you may have is the long input shaft may put the tranny and TCase further back. That isn't an issue with a Cherokee but once it's in your CJ the shift levers may be too far back. What's the difference between the 2 shafts?
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The cherokee had a 360 and so does my 7. Do you think it would put my rear drive shaft at too steep of an angle to just leave the spacer on the Transmission ? I dont want to spend $500 an parts and labor for this if it isnt necessary
 
What's the differance between the lengths of the 2 shafts? Maybe you missed the edit to my earlier post. I am also worried about the placement of the shift levers if you go with the long shaft.
If we find out the length of the shafts we can address our concerns.
I am thinking you will need the short shaft.
 
Here is the difference between the long and short input shaft. The long shaft uses that adapter between the tranny and the bellhousing. The short doesn't.
stuff.jpg

We need some measurements but I wonder where those shift levers will end up. Remember the CJ5 is 10 inches shorter than the CJ7 so I don't think you will have any worse driveline angles than me. I have a CJ5 with a T-18 , a Dana 20 and it's lifted to boot.
 
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that looks just like mine. sadly i dont have the body on the jeep to see where exactly where it pushes the shifters leaving the spacer, i was told tho that it would move them back 5 inches from the stock position, another problem, my body is actually a 94 yj and i dont know if that changes anything

The spacer adds 5 inches to what it should be for the cj. Did you leave the long shaft on or swap out for the short?
 
Sorry I didn't see your question earlier. I started with a Dana 20 and the required adapter plate came with the T18a. I believe you will have to put in the short shaft to make it work. That extra five inches makes too much difference for the rear drive shaft and pushes everything back to far. I had to shift my skid plate/Transmission mount back as it was. It's not a smooth operation but with some patience and help here, I believe it is the best mod you can make for the money on a CJ.

Tommy
 
I would be concerned about leaving the 5” adaptor on the T-18 even though it is going in a CJ7 . Rear drive shaft length is always at a premium especially with a lift. When you add it all up the back of the FSJ T-18 is going to be a total of 6.87” further to the rear than the back of the T-15 . I know the CJ7 frame is 10” longer than the CJ5 and the CJ5 had a T-18 factory option available from the factory but the extra Transmission length in a lifted CJ7 could be problematic leading the vibration and short lived u-joints or even worse. Just my two cents.
 
im thinking ill just stay with the T-15 for now at least with this one, i have a CJ5 i plan to stretch in college and i may just put the 4 speed in it, dont have the money for all the parts right now
 
Parts, labor and all cost me about $800. I did most of the labor myself with my brother. Had to have a little welding done on the skid plate. More than worth the time, effort and money for me and I would do it again for the results I got. The T-15 just didn't have the gears for the wheeling I like and this swap still allowed me to run on the highway. It was great last summer to run it up the highway to the Rubicon Trail and then run the trail and come back without having to tow it or have to bounce it through the trail instead of easing over it. I've tried it with the T-15 and the T-18 and there is a world of difference.

Tommy
 
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