T-5 Transmission

T-5 Transmission
Allen9878

Allen9878

Jeeper
Posts
203
Media
13
Thanks
0
Location
Central Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
1980 Jeep Cj5 Renegade
I258 1987 Engine
Aisin Warner Ax15 Transmission
Dana 300 Transfer Case
iN 1990 The Wrangler had a AX 15 behind the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , in no way is that the same as your T 5
 
BajaEdition said:
iN 1990 The Wrangler had a AX 15 behind the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , in no way is that the same as your T 5
Click to expand...

That being said the AX15 is much much much stronger than that T-5 . But then again I have never seen the DJs with 4x4 (unless someone did it themselves) so maybe the 2wd version of the T-5 has more longevity that the 4x4?
 
Sorry for the mistype, I meant CJ. Does anyone know what is involved or if its possible to use the ax15 in my 1980 CJ5 ? Is there any problems with this swap? What has to be changed out to use this? Do I need different driveshafts? Its coming off a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l from a 90 wrangler and I have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 1980, Problems, things I need, or if its possible?
 
Allen9878 said:
Sorry for the mistype, I meant CJ. Does anyone know what is involved or if its possible to use the ax15 in my 1980 CJ5 ? Is there any problems with this swap? What has to be changed out to use this? Do I need different driveshafts? Its coming off a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l from a 90 wrangler and I have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 1980, Problems, things I need, or if its possible?
Click to expand...
Why, I thought you'd never ask! http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/doing-ax15-swap-4415/
 
Of course it will be slightyly different for you because the ax15 you are looking at has a internal slave cylinder and the one in my post is external but they should mount up just the same. And someone else will have to chime in here but I think there is something funky with early AX15's having different output shafts but I am not sure.
 
Your write up is very helpful, I will definitely be using it. Question for you though, what did you end up doing for the driveshafts? Did you order new ones or find a fix to rob off something else? Do you know what they were ie. static length? I appreciate all of the help.
 
I just left the drive shaft shop today they weren't happy at firsT they weren't so sure about how short the rear was going to be. In fact they had me worried for a minute because one guy said " you may want to put the original trany Back in" but they called the ds "expert" over and he told me no problem so phew. The ax 15 is fricken long especially once u consider the clocking ring u have to use on the Dana 300 .

If you do do the ax 15 I suggest you get the aa kit( I can link I if you need me to) and install the smaller input retainer and see if you can make the tc work on the ax without he clocking ring( meaning redrill it to match the Dana 300 ) this way you can potentially lose almost an inch off he running gear and also get a clocking much lower than the clocking ring will allow and avoid the issue I am having with bellhouse clearence on the front driveshaft
 
can I ask a question in retrospect? would maybe having moved the engine to the drivers side an inch have helped with the clearance issues?
 
BajaEdition said:
can I ask a question in retrospect? would maybe having moved the engine to the drivers side an inch have helped with the clearance issues?
Click to expand...

Probably
 
If I were to try to have the engine an inch to the drivers side, I'm guessing I would need different engine mounts to provide the difference? Anyone have any thoughts on that, and where I would look to find specific ones for that, or any other options?
 
If you would post the link to the clocking ring and or aa kit I would greatly appreciate it
 
Allen9878 said:
If I were to try to have the engine an inch to the drivers side, I'm guessing I would need different engine mounts to provide the difference? Anyone have any thoughts on that, and where I would look to find specific ones for that, or any other options?
Click to expand...

Your can offset the engine with new mounts on aa or you can do like I said earlier and see if you can bypass the ring and just use the new input housing and sealed bearing and clock the tc lower. Also a spring lift would push the the axle down creating more clearence.
 
If you had people worried about the driveshaft length in your CJ7 , Am I going to be able to even do it in a CJ5 ? I'm assuming the axle is even closer in a CJ5 right?
 
Allen9878 said:
If you had people worried about the driveshaft length in your CJ7 , Am I going to be able to even do it in a CJ5 ? I'm assuming the axle is even closer in a CJ5 right?
Click to expand...
oh yea, depending on year 10 to 14 inches shorter
 
Well if it were 10 to 14 inches shorter then I dont think you could even get a shaft my rear shaft is something like 19 inches..... Hold on I will go measure... 19.5 " form u bolt to ubolt. The guy that was worried about my DS length was for lack of a better term an idiot. He basically just knows how to measure them. THe so called "expert" they had come out said no problem at all. I think you will be ok with the shorter wheel base but I know you will have a really steep angle and I don't know enough about DS to say if that is bad or not.

I think with DSs its not the length that really matters it is just if the angle is too steep the yokes can't turn right. I may be wrong tho. Someone may want to chime in here with some expert opinion.
 
Measure how long your rear driveshaft is currently just for my own edification.
 
here is a pic of my driveshafts currently
IMG_0030.jpg
IMG_0028.jpg
When I was under there I dont see any reason it wouldnt work if my rear axle were a bit closer to the TC. But man I thought my CJ7 was small you guys running around in 5's must be able to lick the glass when you are backing up!:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
Donate
Back
Top Bottom