transmission options

[thistle3585]

I am looking at buying a CJ7 that has a T-4 Transmission which I will use as a daily driver. The owner says that it is stuck in second gear. I am looking at worst case scenarios/best options if I were to buy this. I recently rebuilt a T-150 , so I don't have a problem tackling a project. I understand the T-5 to be a better Transmission and will simply "drop in." I found a rebuilt T-5 that was described as "two wheel drive S-10". Is there any reason that can't be used? Would I be as well off making an $800 investment in to a rebuilt T-5 then to bother with rebuilding the T-4 ? Are there any other options that I should consider? I don't have a problem doing the swap myself but I don't want to get in over my head and start have to dealing with making a bunch of changes just to accommodate a bullet proof Transmission when this is a daily driver.

 

[Hedgehog]

Better ... maybe yes, maybe no .... the T-5 is simply a 5 speed version of the T-4 , both are closely related to the boat anchor of all CJ Transmission which is the SR4 .

Use the trashed T-5 Transmission as a bargaining point towards a great deal on your Jeep. Get $1000 off and you essentially get a free Transmission .

 

[rockinreel]

You will be perfectly fine with a T-5 as a Daily Driver, if you don't over size your tires and add lockers and/or hit the trails hard, such as put a big strain on your jeep to get over things. Even then, a T-5 won't blow up on the first trail.

Most Importantly, 5th gear on a stock AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l is useless unless you have a tail wind or no wind. (I regeared so I can use 5th gear)

The T-5 will be bashed and I will too after saying I rebuilt mine last year.

I just bought a '84 AMC 360 and now I will have to give up my T-5 connected to my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Heck 360's bend drive shafts, so the light duty T-5 won't make it. I have a perfectly good T-5 for sale now.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

T-5 is nut'n more than a 5 speed T-4 .
If your run'n big tires(33"+)and stupid high R&P(2:73-3:31)that T-5 won't last long.
Why NOT just rebuild the T-4 ??
What else is wrong with this '7'?
You can't even test drive it--------
LG

 

[thistle3585]

It has a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and is running 33" tires on a stock AMC20 . I'm guessing 3.31. I'm not opposed to reducing the tires. He actually says the problem is in the clutch and not Transmission . It can be driven but can't go in or out of second gear. If the price wasn't right then we wouldn't be having this discussion. I'm still good even if I have to put a new Transmission and Transfer Case in it. Its a good vehicle, frame and body, underneath an eccentric paint job that can be easily fixed.

So, if the tire and gear size are problematic then what is a good solution to make it a daily driver?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If it's the clutch-It won't be stick in just 2nd.
2:73 was far more common than 3:31.
I've been run'n a T-5 for over 30+ years with front and rear Detroit-lockers
It will hold up fine, if you not stupid with the skinny pedal
LG

 

[Torxhead]

If it's the clutch-It won't be stick in just 2nd.
2:73 was far more common than 3:31.
I've been run'n a T-5 for over 30+ years with front and rear Detroit-lockers
It will hold up fine, if you not stupid with the skinny pedal
LG

Sorry to pirate this thread, but I gotta ask Lumpy, I had a T-5 with 4:10s and the old style Detroit locker and 33s. I had assumed that the high ring and pinion clearance was a cause for my T-5 to do a lot of grinding while shifting. I take it that this is not an issue for you or is it that you have the newer style Detroit Soft Locker? I do not seem to have any problems with the T-18 .

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Had the gear grind deal till I start'd use'n Valvoline 75W-90 syn gear oil.
Both of my D/L's are the old style.
My 4:88 R&P along with my 4:1 t'case takes allot of load off the tranny.
I do all of my own driveline work and set the backlash on the R&P's to the minimum spec.
Another thing on the T-5 is if there is not any preload on the tranny's main shaft it will grind. I set the input shaft to '0' fore/aft play and then add a .005-.006" shim to preload the input shaft bearing.
LG