Wagoneer Cruise Control
ThisGuyUKnow
Full Time Jeeper
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- Location
- Harleysville, PA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1986 CJ7 Laredo 4.0,Nv3550,D300 Twin Stick,AMC20 3.31, 31 BFG
Honda vtx1800c
I had a thread on this a few years ago but I sold the CJ7 veggie I finished.
The waggy cc is stand alone and easy to remove. It has 4 major components vacuum reservoir , throttle servo , vss (Speedo cable), and control box.
The wiring is simple for the system. You have a harness that runs from the servo to the box. All premade. 4 wires to hook up. Ground. Power , plugs into the fuse panel in the door labeled cruise. 2 wires for the brake sense , I got a plug that fits into the brake test plug that is already in the underdash.
The vacuum ball goes to the intake vacuum then to the servo. The vss is made to go in the waggy Speedo cable which fits the cj Dana 300 and Speedo with no issue.
I mounted the servo next to the brake booster. There were two dimples in the firewall that were the correct width for the bracket so i drilled them out. The vacuum ball I mounted on the driver fender next to the ps pump cause I am using a 4.0 intake that goes to the passenger fender.
All that is easy and straight forward. What was tricky was the turn signal lever.
The waggy lever stand into the column and can be removed without tools or taking apart the column. The cj lever screws into the turn signal switch.
The waggy switch is a common gm part and can be had super cheap. The only cruise lever I could find for the cj column was made by rosta and runs about 40 bucks.
It does not have the correct plug for the cruise system.it also functions differently. I had to contact rosta and get the wire coloring break down. The issue is the set button on the rosta is always hot when the system is on and momentarily goes open when you hit set.
On the waggy the set rests open until your hit set.
So basically the set function does the opposite between the two levers.
What I did was cut the plug off the waggy lever. And used a small a relay to invert the set function. Once that was done the system works great.
Finally. There are two fail dated. One is the brake sense and the other is a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch attaches to the waggy brake pedal with the brake switch. It releases the vacuum when the brake is pressed. It is not absolutely necessary to use This to safely operate the system It is just an extra precaution. Currently I have this plugged but eventually I will hook this up to The clutch pedal.
I have a 4.0 but this can work on literally any engine. It is self contained.
The waggy cc is stand alone and easy to remove. It has 4 major components vacuum reservoir , throttle servo , vss (Speedo cable), and control box.
The wiring is simple for the system. You have a harness that runs from the servo to the box. All premade. 4 wires to hook up. Ground. Power , plugs into the fuse panel in the door labeled cruise. 2 wires for the brake sense , I got a plug that fits into the brake test plug that is already in the underdash.
The vacuum ball goes to the intake vacuum then to the servo. The vss is made to go in the waggy Speedo cable which fits the cj Dana 300 and Speedo with no issue.
I mounted the servo next to the brake booster. There were two dimples in the firewall that were the correct width for the bracket so i drilled them out. The vacuum ball I mounted on the driver fender next to the ps pump cause I am using a 4.0 intake that goes to the passenger fender.
All that is easy and straight forward. What was tricky was the turn signal lever.
The waggy lever stand into the column and can be removed without tools or taking apart the column. The cj lever screws into the turn signal switch.
The waggy switch is a common gm part and can be had super cheap. The only cruise lever I could find for the cj column was made by rosta and runs about 40 bucks.
It does not have the correct plug for the cruise system.it also functions differently. I had to contact rosta and get the wire coloring break down. The issue is the set button on the rosta is always hot when the system is on and momentarily goes open when you hit set.
On the waggy the set rests open until your hit set.
So basically the set function does the opposite between the two levers.
What I did was cut the plug off the waggy lever. And used a small a relay to invert the set function. Once that was done the system works great.
Finally. There are two fail dated. One is the brake sense and the other is a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch attaches to the waggy brake pedal with the brake switch. It releases the vacuum when the brake is pressed. It is not absolutely necessary to use This to safely operate the system It is just an extra precaution. Currently I have this plugged but eventually I will hook this up to The clutch pedal.
I have a 4.0 but this can work on literally any engine. It is self contained.
