what is wrong with my spark plugs

[rockinreel]

I'm seeing blue/gray smoke out of both exhaust when I stop at a traffic light and go again. I already bought and pick up today a set of valve stem seals, thinking that for sure was the problem. However, after looking at my spark plugs, I'm not seeing any reason for smoke.

The plug in the pic is the worst one. Some are very clean. Looks like a yellowish tint, which I did use some engine flush and treatment a week ago to see if that would soften the valve stem seals

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Go and get some standard Champion RN12YC plugs and put those in. Coat the threads with copper anti-seize and torque the plugs to 20 ft/lbs.
How old are the SP wires, dizzy cap and rotor?
Make sure you only buy the dizzy cap with copper terminals and NOT alum.

LG

 

[Posi]

Your on the right track, replace the valve guide seals and get the correct plugs as LG mentioned.

If the problem was worn rings the plugs would be wet.

 

[Torxhead]

Those modern type spark plugs just are not designed for your ignition system. Installing what Lumpy suggested should be your best bet.

 

[JR74CJ5]

If the plugs are "too clean" it may be steam cleaned which would be water from somewhere?

Water with tad bit of oil may make it blueish...

Do you have a PCV valve? Clogged or stuck allowing oil etc back into the carb / intake?

If your AMC V8 is set up anything like mine, the pressure relief cap at the oil fill tube may also be over saturating the air filter with oil in it...

Just some random thoughts...

 

[rockinreel]

@LG, the top part of my engine only has 15k miles when I bought it. (1984 5.9L Grand Wagoneer). I always wonder if I ran it too lean adjusting the idle mixture screws. I felt excessive heat after carb IMS adjustment and test run once. The IMS shouldn't effect highway speed, but if you set it too lean maybe?, Thus I fried my valve stem seals. I'm beginning seal replacement today after work.

@JR, the PC valve is brand new. I have no blow back out of the dip stick or oil filler cap. Just smoke when I take off or rev the motor. I need someone to ride behind me to know if it smokes any other time.

About the plugs: They have more of a yellow to light brown crust. Haynes manual says that's from using oil/gas treatments, which I have been (oil treatment, not gas to fix the problem). How did that get into the combustion chamber so I'm not sold on that explanation.

I have to run 92+ octane, knocks and sputters with 87. I think my compression is 160 but I'll have to recheck to be sure.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Idle mix is only for the idle circuit. Does not come into play on the road.
What is your timing set at?

Why don't you put in the stock plugs like I suggested, and see if you even have a problem?
Then confirm your ign timing with a timing light.
LG

 

[rockinreel]

@LG, okay I'll try that first. That's the easiest test

thanks

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Also-Make sure that ALL of your manifold mounting bolts are tight.
Again I ask-How old is the dizzy cap, wires and rotor?
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If you are knocking with regular gas, back off on your advance a little bit. Look for a variation in compression from cylinder to cylinder. That will tell you more than the reading itself. My 360 after a fresh rebuild ran ~155.

On a side note and you are probably aware, the 360 is a lot of engine for a T-5 Transmission to handle for very long. Some folks love their T-5 's but they are not very robust in a CJ.

Also, what kind or viscosity of oil are you using? The old AMC engines are not designed to run with the modern ultra light oils.

 

[rockinreel]

@LG, the dizzy cap, wires and rotor were changed 15K mi ago.

@Hedgehog, the T-5 was used because it was an exact match. I'm aware from this site that the T-5 is a light duty Transmission . I have an AX-15 in the garage awaiting.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

15K-Then replace them also. Brass contacts only in the d'cap.
LG