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Wheel problems leads to TC problems?

Wheel problems leads to TC problems?

somedude922

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Location
Mckinney, TX
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ-7 Golden Eagle AMC 360, TH400, Quadratrac, AMC 20 and Dana 30 narrowtracs.
Here's the scoop. 79 CJ7 . 360. GM Turbo 400 . QT with low range and PT conversion. Dana 30 and AMC20 .

I have a wheel wobble. You can see it while watching the rotor turn on the drivers side. Put it up on jacks and I was able to shake the whole wheel/tire.

So....replaced all bearings and races.
Re installed....same problem.
So.....took rotor to get turned and they said (and I saw) it was warped.
Bought new rotor. Reinstalled.

Nothing changed. I still have a runout of about a 1/8 inch. Now when you watch the rotor it runs out. But when I watch the hub it doesn't do it as much.
It doesn't make a difference if the lockouts are engaged or not.

I did stuff this wheel in a rut and it flung the steering wheel pretty hard. Problems seem to have shown up after that. I was also hit by a Honda in that wheel. She was going about 10mph. So two decent impacts.

So what's bent?

Next problem. It's all assembled now. When I engage the front axle either with 4WD or just by locking the hubs I get a loud chirping sound above 15mph. I can't tell if it's coming from the TC or the diff, but it's NOT the wheels. Also my TC is so for a seal kit so I checked the fluid ant added a quart. Yes a quart. But sound persists.

I swear you throw parts at these things and nothing changes!!!!
 
It's never a good idea to throw new replacement parts in an attempt to fix any problem .
You should do a thorough inspection and diagnosis and fix the problem correctly, the first time.

You may have a bent wheel hub (what the rotor attaches to) or some other bent component.

Your chirping noise could be a bad CV joint/ u-joint on the front driveshaft, especially if it's still the stock factory shaft. Look for visible signs of rust with a good light source in those areas, especially at the Transfer Case end; or simply pull the driveshaft out and inpect.

You could also have a bad spindle bearing as well.

Don't drive it in 4wd until you get these issue sresolved.
 
I have no way of telling what's bent. When all taken apart it all looked good. I was just going with the logical culprits like bearings, rotor. I'm sure it's either the hub or the spindle. That's pretty much all that's left! But I don't know how to check which one.

I was thinking a u joint as well. It's a CV shaft and joints were put in 1.5yrs ago. About 2000miles on them. But I guess I'll start there.
Thanks.
 
Can you put your Transfer Case in neutral but yet lock your hubs and see if you still hear the noise? This could potentially rule out the Transfer Case if you can still spin the front. Otherwise pull the front driveshaft and put it in full-time four-wheel-drive from a Transfer Case perspective and see if that rules out the TC.
 
Last edited:
Ck the spindle bolts and torque to 35 ft/lbs.
Do you detect ANY play in the axle U-joint?
Do you detect any slop/play in the upper or lower ball joints?
OLG
 
No play was noted in the u joints. Spindle bolts are torqued. Ball joints looked good.
 
Can you put your Transfer Case in neutral but yet lock your hubs and see if you still hear the noise? This could potentially rule out the Transfer Case if you can still spin the front. Otherwise pull the front driveshaft and put it in full-time four-wheel-drive from a Transfer Case perspective and see if that rules out the TC.


I'll try that when I get home. Good idea.
 
Figured the TC out. It's the dust shield attached to the TC yoke. It can off and is rattling. I guess I will JB weld it.

I'm going to switch my hubs and narrow down if it's my spindle or hub on the front.
 
Don't 'micky-mouse' fix with JB. It won't last.
Pull it off and fix it 'rite'.
LG
 
It's the hub.
 
So you gonna make Colorado?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
......sadly no.
 
Uuggghh..... My parts are still not here! Question:
Can I press out the NEW bearings and races I put in my ok hub and reuse them in the new hub?
 
If they are fairly fresh, sure you can. You can probably do the same with your other hub too, that is if it isn't the bearing that failed. Honestly though, I like to use new bearings when I can. Unfortunately bearings aren't cheap anymore, so reuse might be your only sensible option.
 
Thanks. These bearings and races only have 50 miles on them since installation into a faulty hub. I'll press them out and put in the new hub.
 

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