1974 cj5 body bushing!

[melvinew2]

Hello I am new here first time CJ5 owner. (I have had yj and Dj5 in the past and still have a dj5) In the past week I picked up 2 CJ5 's a 79 with a AMC 304 low miles bad rust no title set for many years in a barn at a farm that the guy passed away in the mid 80's Took a chance (350$ chance) and pulled it home and hooked a gas can to it and it ran amazing on it. Was going to use the engine in my dj5 but the next day i found a ok running 1974 CJ5 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l good frame body is not bad (for being in ohio) some one has put alot of money in to it in its past life aluminum rims, Runck Equipment front and rear bumper, newer soft top and doors, 2.5 inch spring lift, headers, 4B holley, does have drives floor rust and on drivers rocker. clean title. Runs bad and I can tell high miles but I got it off the guy cheap I think (1300$) and drove it the 60 miles home. The last guy that had it has been driving it with a bad valve cover leak so hole engine is covered in oil. The plan is to put the AMC 304 in it once i fix my problem (sure i will need help with that later) So the problem is the frame is good but the body mount on the drives side are shot I need to replace the Floor body supports on the drivers side and front drives pan.(i was going to use Classic Enterprises parts unless you know of a better place?) after that is done I need to replace the body bushing and bolts I was going to use polyurethane I think. I have a few questions about it all. What is the best polyurethane bushing for a 75? Is there a hard where kit or do I just have to buy bolts? How do I get the old bolts out do the run through the floor from the top or use some kind of nut on the Body support? I can find alot of info about 76 and up CJ5 and doing this just not a lot about 75 and down. I don't want to brake the bank just make a good v8 CJ5 cruiser so not trying to go top of the line.

 

[mriplaybass]

You can try places like Morris, 4wd.com, quadratec.com. Hardware kits are available, but often times rather pricey. I have always just used gr5 nuts and bolts on my body mounts.
As for removing the old rusted bolts, I am not sure how the 75s are, but on our 79 CJ7 the captive nuts were inside the body channels so I had to cut through the floor, remove the broken nut, weld in a new nut, and finally weld in new metal and patch the floor. If you are lucky, when you break off the bolt, the nut will stay welded inside the channel. You can try grinding it flat, re drilling and tapping it, and get a new bolt, but this would truely be a miracle if the welds on the captive nuts didn't break.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Just an opinion, but my plan is to use rubber mounts and rubber bushings for the things that really vibrate. I am using poly on the suspension for durability. Poly last longer, but rubber has more give. I too had most of my captive nuts come loose due to rust. I had to cut several body mount bolts with a reciprocal saw. Good luck, and have some fun.

 

[tarry99]

Just an opinion, Poly last longer, but rubber has more give.

You should check this out: energysuspension.com | Body Cab & Subframe Mounts

I have worked with these folks in the past on other projects and they know there stuff.

Poly has a much better memory than rubber............and can be had in different durometer hardness's............

In my latest build I'm converting the old single one sided rubber body mount system over to the much later captive suspension body mount much like the Jeep Wrangler mount that has cushioning on both sides of where it attaches to the body.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Poly has a much better memory than rubber............and can be had in different durometer hardness's............

I really didn't see anything on this, or a comparison to rubber. Do you have another source? I like the idea of an above and below mount.

 

[tarry99]

I really didn't see anything on this, or a comparison to rubber. Do you have another source? I like the idea of an above and below mount.

You can call them and talk to there engineers..........here is another link to the same site. energysuspension.com | UNIVERSAL #1: Link-Flange Type Bushings, Universal Mounts/Isolators

 

[Hedgehog]

Body mounts. I have a '75. The frames are not boxed on the '72-'75 cj's, this makes for a weaker frame but one that is easier to work with. My bolts came through the floor (Carriage bolts) and on the back 1/2 inside the open frame. All except for the body support at the very front of the tub. That is a triangular item. Mine was replaced by the PO so I'm not at all sure how yours might be. I bet you can fairly easily get to both the top and bottom of that bolt. As far as actually being about to loosen them, probably not. I used Grade 8 bolts, but I'm sure Grade 5's would do the job nicely. My welder made life easier for me. When the bolts would turn on top I welded a short piece of scrap metal to the carriage bolt top. That made it easier to get a grip on the top. If were you and if the bolts are fighting you, I'd get a saws-all and cut the bolt right off, if necessary right through the rubber puck. I wouldn't replace them with neoprene pucks, I'd use rubber. Why? Rubber makes for a more comfortable ride.

 

[tarry99]

Re-Print from there catalog.........

HYPER-FLEX™ is Energy Suspension's unique and technically advanced chemical formulation performance polyurethane. HYPER-FLEX™ has been used on Energy's products that have been awarded 9 U.S. Patents.
Durability is superior to most rubber components that are used for cars, trucks and SUVs. Road salt, oil, and a host of other common under car contaminants will eventually destroy the rubber bushings on your vehicles, not to mention the weight and torque forces that typically compress most rubber permanently! HYPER-FLEX™ replacement polyurethane components stand up well to contaminants that often destroy rubber and have been engineered to give longer-lasting performance and not compress permanently.
HYPER-FLEX™ is offered in a variety of durometers (firmness or softness), depending on the a particular product application. Performance tested and race proven, it's used for all of our products that require a higher level of performance and durability! We call it "The Cure!"
If you are modifying, building a new vehicle for scratch or restoring an old one, Energy Suspension's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane should be the "ground zero" focus of your present and next vehicle plans.

 

[Hedgehog]

Now that's quit a testimonial. But I don't believe that they would work up an add that says. Our product comes in several really cool colors and will make your vehicle feel like its riding on granite.