1977 cj7 brake problems H-E-L-P

1977 cj7 brake problems H-E-L-P

edross

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Location
west centeral il.
1977 CJ7 -went to power brakes. no breaks- installed big bore mast cyl-no pedal-changed cal to small bore and thin rotors,now new cal will not fit brackets. i have a 6 bolt caliper holder,can i use a 2 bolt caliper bracket ,will it bolt up?
i keep chasing my tail , i have baught 2 different master cylinders-2 set of dif. calipers - and thin & thick rotors and still no brakes
THANK'S ED
e_ross@att.net
 
have you bench bled the master cylinder? try adjusting the pushrod to make it longer. that was the problem with my conversion. i had a yj set up and the push rod was not adjusted properly and i had no brakes until i discovered this simple fix
 
are you using the non power pushrod that mounts to the pedal assembly? if so, that was not long enough for me. i modified the one i got with the yj conversion. there is a lot of info on here about a yj conversion
 
I did the YJ to CJ brake booster upgrade and results were FANTASTIC!!!:D If you have a CJ with sub par brakes you gotta do this.

I purchased a 1987-1995 Jeep YJ brake booster brand new from NAPA for $150 including core fee (booster does NOT come with firewall mount bracket).

I went on Craiglist and found a guy parting out a '93 YJ and purchased his crappy brake booster and firewall mount bracket for $35.

I took his crappy booster core back to NAPA, was refunded $40 core fee which I then applied to the purchase of dual diaphram YJ master cylinder.

All parts assembled without a problem except the YJ master cylinder brake line ports are on the right (engine side) and the old CJ master cylinder brake line ports were on the left side (fender well). No problem though because the previous owner left plenty of brake line slack to unwind (bend) to the other side.

One other hitch was the YJ master cylinder brake line ports take a larger securing nut so adapters were purchased at NAPA as well.

One last problem the push rod to the actual brake pedal had to be extended. Cut the rod and welded a 1/2 inch coupler on the booster side. On the other half of the rod, cut 1/2 - 13 threads with a die and adjust the rod to your desired pedal heigth.

Here's a link with some info YJ Brake Booster Upgrade I hope this helps.
 
So I have what I think is a 78 Dana 30 front axle, with 6 bolt calipers. I ordered new rotors and when they came they measure about 1.25" thick. The rotors on the axle now are about 7/8" thick. Will these new wider rotors work with my calipers since the calipers are on six bolt hangers which is what the rotors were supposed to be for? I have read a few posts and see some availability of a 7/8" rotor on the six bolt caliper. Thanks.

Sent from Windows Mail



Wooly
 
I would remove a caliper and see how wide you can push the pistons back.
.250" thicker, is a bunch.:confused:
May not have the room to install new pads with the thicker rotors.
Who did you get the rotors from?
LG
 
Yeah, pulling the cal off is the only sure way to know. The rotors are from omix. What's odd is the calipers are for the six bolt (new last year) and I have the six bolt holders, but the thinner rotors that are typ on the 2 bolt calipers. I've got the 11" rear drums so I think I have the "big" brake year.


Wooly
 
Well it appears that only two calipers exist; one for the 2 bolt and one for the 6 bolt. The only wide rotor was on the six bolt. Therefore......my six bolt caliper should accept the wide rotor . I'll let you know if that logic plays well with reality.


Wooly
 
I have no faith in anything Omix sells.
Have you ck'd with NAPA, and seen what they offer?
Why did you need to change the rotors?:confused:
LG
 
I'll stop by napa and see what they think. There seems to be a small period of time where the six bolt caliper came with a narrow rotor but I think the caller is the same. The ones on it are old and warped a bit. I also get some sticking then non sticking issues that I think is associated with the warping. Just going through the brakes with new stuff since that's what stops me :). Rears next. I've got a YJ MC on it but it's never worked quite right so I think I'm going with a new CJ double.


Wooly
 
Just turn the rotors you have now to 95% clean-up, and you'll be good.
LG
 
Maybe but I picked these up with pads on close out for under $50. I'd probably pay most of that to have them turned. And yes, I avoid OA stuff as well but I figured how can they screw up a round chunk of steel with 5 holes in it....


Wooly
 
Maybe but I picked these up with pads on close out for under $50. I'd probably pay most of that to have them turned. And yes, I avoid OA stuff as well but I figured how can they screw up a round chunk of steel with 5 holes in it....


Wooly

:eek:
Easy to screw up as it's China :dung: with built in hard-spots that our ductile iron rotors are free of-
Cost be danged-It's your BRAKES. Never go the cheap here-
LG
 

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