1981 CJ7 lift kit

1981 CJ7 lift kit

Slingblade

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Location
South Mississippi
Vehicle(s)
‘81 cj7, 258, T176, d300, amc 20, Dana 30
I have a 1981 CJ7 stock suspension. Looking for advice on spring under lifts to run 33 inch tires. I live in flatland and will not be flexing but minimal. I do not wish to trim fenders. I don't not like body lifts. If I can keep from it I would like to avoid trimming driveshafts if I can. I plan on upgrading to chrome moly axles in front and rear. I am looking for info on lift kits, gear ratios, and upgrading to twin stick shifter. The jeep will spend most of its life on flat gravel roads on national forest where I hunt. It has a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with four speed Dana 300 . I intend to keep this combo for gas mileage. I prefer gearing to be little low for idling around dirt roads. I am a Offshore mechanic by trade. Very talented with welders, grinders, torches, hand tools, and BIG HAMMERS.
 
I went with a 4" Pro Comp lift on my CJ5 . The kit came with everything needed and I clear 33's with no problem. I did have to adjust my steering limit stops to prevent front tire rub but not much. With the 1" Transfer Case drop I didn't have to change my front drive line. I had to change my rear but that was due to an axle swap. 4 Wheel Parts had my kit in stock and I think it was around $700 for everything including shocks.The OME lifts are great from what I hear, but I have no experience with them or BDS. If you do the lift I would recommend greasable shackle bolts. I made mine since I didn't want to spend $20 a pop on buying them.

One thing I didn't account for was the break in period. I ran all new custom exhaust after the lift and when it broke in a bit I had to redo my hangers because my exhaust rubbed on my rear tires. I exited my exhaust out the back corners and its a bit tight on a CJ5 .
 
I went with a 4" Pro Comp lift on my CJ5 . The kit came with everything needed and I clear 33's with no problem. I did have to adjust my steering limit stops to prevent front tire rub but not much. With the 1" Transfer Case drop I didn't have to change my front drive line. I had to change my rear but that was due to an axle swap. 4 Wheel Parts had my kit in stock and I think it was around $700 for everything including shocks.The OME lifts are great from what I hear, but I have no experience with them or BDS. If you do the lift I would recommend greasable shackle bolts. I made mine since I didn't want to spend $20 a pop on buying them.

One thing I didn't account for was the break in period. I ran all new custom exhaust after the lift and when it broke in a bit I had to redo my hangers because my exhaust rubbed on my rear tires. I exited my exhaust out the back corners and its a bit tight on a CJ5 .

All awesome info there...

I have a 2.5" BDS lift, and I really like the ride. I have 31s, and there's room for 32s, but not sure about 33s. A 4-4.5" lift will give you plenty of room for 33s. If you don't use offset wheels, you'll probably have to adjust your steering limits on the knuckles...depends on how wide you go, too. But that's an easy job.

For your application, I'd say go 4.10 or higher for gear ratio.

If you're even thinking about going twin stick, just do it. It's not that terribly expensive, and it's not too difficult either if you know your way around the tc. I'm doing the conversion on mine when I'm done with my engine project.
 
I have some experience with twin stick. That was in a Ford 4x4. Liked the options it gave me. I was thinking 410 gears in rear. But after pricing everything for it including new one piece axles. It left me wondering about 3/4 ton axle swap. Leave straight six. I have a full set 3/4 ton Chevy from 1978 on frame still. My only question is front is a 10 bolt 8 lug and rear 14 bolt. How reliable is 10 bolt on 35 inch tires tires. Is it feasible to leave my straight six. I think gearing is 4.56. On tag. I plan pulling covers and inspecting it soon
 
If you want to avoid a body lift, then go 4" suspension lift for 33s. Even with 32s, a 2.5" lift will get into the fenders pretty quick.

As far as the gears, I think 4.10s would be a good match for your with 33s. ~60 mph will probably be near the top comfortable cruising speed (for an extended period). Also, you might want to verify if you have a T-176 or T177 Transmission . The T177 has a lower 1st gear, so 4.10s with a T177 would be the same gearing as 4.56s in a T-176 (in 1st gear; everything else is pretty much the same)
Here's a gear calculator to play around with the gears: Gear Ratio Calculator

My understanding is that the 10 bolt is basically the same as Dana 44 . I've been beating on my shortened GM Dana 44 front for 5 or 6 years with 35s and no issues. The 14 bolt rear is pretty big for just 35s; you'd have more ground clearance with 33s and the AMC20 or Dana 44 .
 
Trying to attach pictures
 

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