Build Thread 1983 CJ7 ReFurb.

[PistolDave]

1983 CJ7 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , T-5 , Dana 300 , Dana 30 /AMC20 , 3.31 r&p, hard top and doors, mostly original, 180,000ish miles. Goal is to make this currently non runner into something useful. Plans(which may change at any moment for no reason whatsoever) are: Restore engine functionality, install T19, possibly 4:1 gears in Dana 300 , junkyard TBI, 31" tires, YJ spring conversion most likely with 2" lift BDS springs, possibly some sort of locker in 1 or both axles, rust repairs, maintenance items(brakes, bearings, ujoints, seals, etc.). I am thinking that I will keep this one looking pretty stock.

 

[Petescj]

Look forward to following the ride! Glad you started the build thread.

 

[PistolDave]

A tidbit of info:

Original paint color - 3B Sebring Red
Trim - 1EB Black, High Back Bucket, Denim Vinyl

 

[PistolDave]

Cause of bent pushrods correctly identified by Mtnwhlr, it was frozen valves. Head is mostly disassembled now and is awaiting cleaning either by me or machine shop. Guides and valve seats appear in reasonable condition for re-use.

 

[gert]

sweet looking forward to watching your progress

 

[PistolDave]

Small update, got the head all cleaned up, valves cleaned and reinstalled with new seals, valve guide clearances seem ok. Let the bottom end sit a couple of days with the tops of the pistons soaking in Marvel mystery oil, wiped out cylinders, scotch brited the carbon ring at the top of the cylinder. Disassembled and cleaned the lifters and reinstalled, cam lobes and journals/bearings all look good. Piston to cylinder clearance feels ok for a 180k motor. Transferred the pushrods and timing set over from a low mileage rebuilt AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l that had a cracked block. Remounted the cylinder head with new head gasket. That's where it sits now. Next step will be getting it back together to run on a test stand. If it runs ok, it goes back in the jeep. If not, I am thinking about pulling the .030 over rotating assembly from the cracked block engine and having the red jeeps block bored to match. We will see.....

 

[PistolDave]

Got my junky old 6 cylinder running on the test stand this weekend. Actually runs pretty good, no knocking or tapping, makes good oil pressure, etc. Smokes like a freight train, however. I think I am going to put it back in the Jeep with a quart of Transmission fluid and a little Seafoam in the crankcase and drive it around for a while. I have a buddy that has revived several "mosquito foggers" doing this.

 

[gert]

lol I guess worst case you won't have any mosquitos in the area


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[Lumpy Grits]

I would check the valve guides since you just had the head off.
LG

 

[PistolDave]

Well, I don't think its the guides, they felt pretty good, and I did install new garter-spring style umbrella valve seals. My thinking is that whatever goop was in the intake valve guides that caused them to stick bad enough to bend pushrods is probably also in the piston rings. There was just enough of a ridge in the top of the cylinder that I didn't want to try to pull the pistons out.

If it doesn't respond to my hillbilly cocktail in the oil, I may pull the rotating assembly, ridge ream & bead hone the cylinders, and try a new set of rings. If that plan doesn't look feasible I may be heading to the machine shop for some boring. We will see.

 

[PistolDave]

Refreshed motor mounts and a shot of "Old Smokey" getting ready to go back in the frame.

 

[PistolDave]

Motor with Transmission attached, nastiest Transfer Case I have ever seen. The crud on this thing was 3/4" thick in some places and seems to be a curious mixture of gear lube, roofing tar, liquid nails, and dirt. Taking some serious elbow grease to scrape it all off.

 

[Scooter402]

Motor with Transmission attached, nastiest Transfer Case I have ever seen. The crud on this thing was 3/4" thick in some places and seems to be a curious mixture of gear lube, roofing tar, liquid nails, and dirt. Taking some serious elbow grease to scrape it all off.

I think our transfer cases must have bathed in the same tub of crud... mine had a very similar coating that I swore must have been some sort of tar that took ages to scrape/hammer/cuss at to get it to come off.

Great looking work here!

 

[PistolDave]

Things accomplished so far:

Transmission : exterior cleaned, fluid changed, new rear output seal, new pilot bushing, new throwout bearing.
Transfer Case : cleaned up, flushed & fluid changed, inspection cover removed and resealed.
Rear Driveshaft: new u-joints, greased splines.
Rear Diff: flushed, refilled, new gasket and cover resealed.
Fuel tank: removed 20 gal poly tank in poor condition, replaced with 15gal steel tank, new rubber lines between sending unit and hard lines, new sending unit.
Brakes: New M/C, new vac booster, flushed lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders.
Cooling system: Machined register on jeep fan clutch to accept GM reverse rotation fan from S-10 blazer. (used the original fan on another project, oops)

Reinstalled drivetrain with new motor and Transmission mounts.

Took it out for a test drive late yesterday evening. Discovered that the original 2 row radiator is extremely plugged up and has a leak as well. The 3 row radiator I used on the test stand will not fit because of fan clutch interference. Have not decided if I will buy another 2-row radiator or solid mount a flex fan and use the 3-row, we will see. In spite of smoking a bit, the engine runs pretty good, hopefully the rings will unstick and I will be back in business with no further engine teardowns, time will tell.


Dave

 

[PistolDave]

couple more pics

 

[venom]

Well done!

 

[gert]

wow sweet thats alot of work quick

 

[gert]

try engine restore, seems to actually work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr8jIwVyIFE

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I have used it for yrs in mine. Use the V8 size can.
What weight engine oil are you run'n?
Is that lathe a Logan?
LG

 

[PistolDave]

I will keep the Restore in mind. Lathe is a South Bend Light 10, came off of a Naval Vessel in the 50's or 60's, belongs to a friend of mine.