1inch body lift on 4inch suspension lift? Thoughts and issues.

[Austin]

Okay so the frame I have now is sitting on 4inch suspension lift. I am replacing the tub and worn out body mounts. I plan on running 35's (that I already have) and thought I should at least consider installing a 1inch body lift. What issues might I run into here? I know I dont want to go any bigger than 1inch because of the stress it puts on the bolts, tub, and frame but figured 1inch couldn't hurt. Thoughts? If anyone has a similar rig how does it?

Thanks!

Also, this question might have already been asked and answered, can you point me in the right direction if so?

 

[Torxhead]

Well, I have 35s, 4" suspension lift, longer shackles, and a 1" body lift and it seems fine. I did have to put some longer bump stops in to stop tire rubbing though. Installing a body lift is quite simple, but everything connected between the frame and body has to be considered. Since you will be putting on another body in the process you should be fine. There are some good body lift kits out there and that would be a good way to go. A lot of guys don't go for them, I put on a homemade set about 15 years ago and would recommend it.

 

[Austin]

Well, I have 35s, 4" suspension lift, longer shackles, and a 1" body lift and it seems fine. I did have to put some longer bump stops in to stop tire rubbing though. Installing a body lift is quite simple, but everything connected between the frame and body has to be considered. Since you will be putting on another body in the process you should be fine. There are some good body lift kits out there and that would be a good way to go. A lot of guys don't go for them, I put on a homemade set about 15 years ago and would recommend it.

Thanks! What are some of the major things that need attention with the body lift...clutch linkage...fuel lines/ gas tank....

 

[Torxhead]

The radiator must be lowered 1". The body lift is a bit hard on the shifter boots btw. Everything else will be taken care of during the body swap, like clutch adj.,brake lines, and gas tank lines. As I recall, the e-brake needs readjusting also. Try to install the replacement body to the rear to keep the clearance between the valve cover and the firewall good and watch how the shifter holes line up so you don't bang into them while shifting. While you are at it, maybe replace the hoses coming out of the fuel sending unit and check the fuel pick up sock in the gas tank. I would like to eventually put a door over the fuel sender in the bed for when I have to get at it, for another suggestion.

 

[Austin]

The radiator must be lowered 1". The body lift is a bit hard on the shifter boots btw. Everything else will be taken care of during the body swap, like clutch adj.,brake lines, and gas tank lines. As I recall, the e-brake needs readjusting also. Try to install the replacement body to the rear to keep the clearance between the valve cover and the firewall good and watch how the shifter holes line up so you don't bang into them while shifting. While you are at it, maybe replace the hoses coming out of the fuel sending unit and check the fuel pick up sock in the gas tank. I would like to eventually put a door over the fuel sender in the bed for when I have to get at it, for another suggestion.

This might be a dumb question or obvious answer but why does the radiator have to be lowered an 1"? Great suggestion on fabing a door for the fuel sender. Could come in handy and save loads of time and frustrating.

 

[Torxhead]

With the body lifted up 1", and the engine attached to the frame, the center of the radiator shroud must be compensated for. If you don't have a shroud, I would recommend one.

 

[Austin]

Took a sec but the light bulb just went off. The grill is lifted 1inch as the body is lifted...radiator connected to grill...hense...radiator must come back down to normal position. Got it! Whew...to think Im using tools and saws...scary.

 

[Old Dog]

I also have a 4" lift and a 1" body lift. No problems after 8 years of running it.
As for the 35's you will either need to lower the bump stops as torxhead said or do a little trimming of the fenderwells or maybe both as I had to do.
Just depends on how much up travel you want.

 

[Torxhead]

I also had an issue with the steering binding up. This was fixed by loosening up the ends of the steering shaft to let things stretch out then retighten. Anything over a 1" lift requires a longer steering shaft.

 

[Austin]

I also had an issue with the steering binding up. This was fixed by loosening up the ends of the steering shaft to let things stretch out then retighten. Anything over a 1" lift requires a longer steering shaft.

Good to know. Things you don't know to ask, you don't know to ask. This advice will come handy if and when my steering does this.