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2 questions (75 CJ5)

2 questions (75 CJ5)
B

BC CJ

Active Jeeper
Posts
478
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Location
British Columbia
Vehicle(s)
Early 1975 CJ 5
304, NP435, AA, D300, D30, D44
Hi everyone, I have 2 questions:

1 - I am trying to adjust the free-play in the clutch, Haynes manual says 1/2 to 3/4 inch free play. When I started there was zero free-play. The clutch was held tight in its' place and as soon as I pushed it the throwout lever would move. So I adjusted it. Now the pedal sits loose and wiggles 1/2 inch. But this free-play seems to be the result of the play in the rod conections. Is that sufficient? When pushing in the clutch (before or after adjustment) it has a lot of resistance from the get go and I cant really notice a change in pressure at any point.

Any info appreciated!

2 - There is a hose, about the size of a heater hose, that comes out of the engine block down beside the oil pump/oil filter assembly. This hose runs up to the fender and has some fitting on the end. I cant tell if it is a breather fitting or it should be connected to something. The only other dead-end hose in the area runs to the oil filler cap. Most pics I've seen this hose runs to the air cleaner assembly... a vent most likely. Anyone know if these hoses should be connected or what that hose from the engine block is doing. I haven't seen that before in my Limited experiance.

Thanks!
 
I'm not sure about the hose but I have always adjusted the clutch so that it has about a 1" free play at the top.
 
BC CJ

Free play is just what it says...........you have mechanical linkage and along that path if your linkage & joints are all in decent shape you would have in theory a net length from your clutch pedal via the linkage to the clutch fork to the throw out bearing and finally to the fingers on your clutch.
Your main goal no matter how you get there is to have some free travel so that the throw out bearing has static clearance away from the clutch pressure plate fingers. The reason is that all clutches have centrifugal weights on the fingers that will expand / grow as RPM is increased which in turn locks up the clutch. By NOT allowing any clearance the clutch will slip. A quick check sometimes can be had as your going down the road "lightly touch your clutch pedal with your foot, if you feel zero clearance then add some.
 
Awesome guys. Thanks for the quick responses!

So the way it was, tight with no peddle application, is bad. The throwout bearing may not be completely disengaged.

And now, peddle is loose with no application, I can rest assured that the throwout bearing is disengaged due to the return spring and that is the point of having free-play.

I think I got it!

Anyone have any ideas with that hose? The engine is converted to propane but I don’t think that would have anything to do with it.
 
Can you put on a picture of the hose?
 
my guess is case vent, should be connected to breather, they are for emissions, your vehicle should not have to pass emissions anymore.

Sent from my SPH-M820-BST using Tapatalk 2
 
Here are some pics of the hose.

Actually it comes out from the oil pan.
P4180022.webp

Here it is from the top. The hose from the oil filler has a clamp on it... looks like they may have been connected. But why? The oil filler hose is a breather I'm sure. Every pic I've seen of the AMC 304 shows that hose running to the air filter assembly.
P4180023.webp
 
Interesting
:rolleyes:
 
strange isn't it? The engine runs great as things are - my only complaint is the propane smell when it's running. But that is likely to do with an exhaust leak (manifold maybe) or possibly the mixer is out of tune - too much propane being sent in. Shouldn't be anything to do with this hose.
 
BC CJ said:
Here are some pics of the hose.

Actually it comes out from the oil pan.
P4180022.webp

Here it is from the top. The hose from the oil filler has a clamp on it... looks like they may have been connected. But why? The oil filler hose is a breather I'm sure. Every pic I've seen of the AMC 304 shows that hose running to the air filter assembly.
P4180023.webp
Click to expand...
The only reason I can see that the breather is draining to the oil pan is there was (at one time) one heck of a lot of blow-by and they were draining the oil directly back into the pan.
 
so you think this is a custom job??:wtf:
 
I wouldn't be surprised if it's a custom thing. 2 owners ago was the guy who did most of the work to this Jeep including customizing: propane conversion, power seats, LED tail lights.

What do you guys think I should do about this? Doesn't seem to serve a purpose now... plug it at the oil pan?
 
Plug at the pan, plug at the breather or replace it (the breather) and make sure the PCV system is working correctly.
 
I'm thinking that was some form of Crankcase ventilation specific to Propane?
Makes since if you have blow by in the crankcase which all motors do and the blow by is Propane might blow the pan right off the motor. Don't know if it was hooked up to the oil filler / breaker as that may just recirculate the gases..............do some research on line.
 
Whats hanging on the fender next to the alternator? Is that some kind of canister?
You may be missing some parts there or at least missing where those hoses need to go.
The Propane smell?, might be coming from those open hoses?
I think you need to do some research on Smog systems for Propane fired vehicles.
 
nothing about a vent hose in CJim7's propane conversion article. But the crankcase vent is a theory worth looking into for sure. There is nothing on the fender by the alternator... just ugly wireing in the black, plastic, corrugated tubing (sorry, dont know the name of that stuff).

Smog system should be nil. Propane is suppossed to burn clean enough. I work with equipment that can be run on propane for indoor jobs for that very reason.

I think the propane smell is from a leak in the exhaust... it isn't the prettiest. Would a tune up help (by reducing the amount of wasted fuel being sent to the exhaust)?
 
I just remembered the previous owner mentioned something about a turbo charger... it used to have one or the owner before him was trying to instal one... something like that.

More food for thought. Might lend more credence to the vent idea; there would be a lot of fuel rammed into that engine.
 
I didn't say anything earlier but, that is a typical drain position (in the pan) for a turbo oil outlet.
 
In the Early 70's they still had closed Crankcase ventilation systems, I do believe that Propane also had to have a similar system. On the gas motors they plumbed a line from the valve cover to the base of the carburetor and then from the oil filler breather to the air cleaner, somewhere in that system there was a PVC valve, the Idea was to re burn any unspent gas fumes and thereby clean the air.
Again this may be the same on these early Propane systems whereby they are recirculating unspent fumes back through the combustion cycle.
Just guessing?
 
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