60's cj5 steering

[tomass]

The steering in my 65 CJ5 has a lot of play in it and I am going to tackle this problem in the next few weeks. My question is, will rebuilding the steering box and replacing the bearings give me real tight steering. Or should I try some type of mod to the steering system? I have seen some different mods on line but is all that work worth it?

 

[tarry99]

The steering in my 65 CJ5 has a lot of play in it and I am going to tackle this problem in the next few weeks. My question is, will rebuilding the steering box and replacing the bearings give me real tight steering. Or should I try some type of mod to the steering system? I have seen some different mods on line but is all that work worth it?

Do you still have the old stock Ross steering gear?
That system by itself has lots of parts that wear out.........In order to get a better understanding of where the biggest problems are have a friend stop over and while one is inside turning the steering wheel back and forth the other is exploring all the linkage from the column to the spindles and last to the wheels and hubs.........every worn out part in the system will contribute to the total play.......movement at the steering wheel should be on a 1:1 RATIO as you move downstream.........

 

[Mark W]

I converted my old Ross box to a Saginaw manual box and would be happy to provide pictures of my system if you need them. overall the system is much better (i.e. tighter) and only took a little fitting work.

 

[tomass]

I converted my old Ross box to a Saginaw manual box and would be happy to provide pictures of my system if you need them. overall the system is much better (i.e. tighter) and only took a little fitting work.

I would be Interested in seeing those pics.

 

[Sasquach]

Just to answer your question, if you rebuild everything as original you will have tight steering. But, as Tarry said there are a lot of moving parts concerned. My 3b steering was about as poor as possible and the biggest culprits were broken knuckle pivot bearings, toasted ball ends on the tie rods and the cup ends on the drag link and the pitman arm ball. The steering box was actually not bad in my case.

 

[tarry99]

I would be Interested in seeing those pics.

I would also be interested in seeing Mark's system that only took "a little fitting work"


I doubt that as I have installed many:

First off if your going to a Saginaw Manual Box the front frame horn on the drivers side needs to be re-enforced although most will do both sides at the same time....... A plate you either fabricate or purchase made to bolt the steering gear to has to be installed where the box will now mount in front of the radiator cross member on the left front frame horn.........the original steering column needs to be cut away from the Old Ross box or a replacement column can be had and a bearing or bushing made to support the now loose steering shaft inside and another mount that attaches to the floor to hold the outside tube.......you also have to figure out a way to attache a Universal joint at that inside shaft.
From there a normal Double D steering shaft comes forward to your input shaft on the newly installed Saginaw Box. One more Universal joint normally near the box is also needed. Your old tie rods & drag link will now be of no value since the box is mounted on the Left Side frame rail and a new system of tie rods and drag link will need to be either built or purchased.

One last thing........the manual Saginaw gear box over the Stock Ross in as far as being easier to steer will just not happen.......Is it a better box? Yes, but it is still a manual box..........On most we just go to Power Steering and call it a day.................Is this a hard job? Not really but does require cutting , fitting , welding and purchasing a bunch of parts.

 

[tomass]

If I did go to a power steering set up, what is a ballpark on cost. I brought the jeep back from the dead to become my daily driver, so I, m in for the long haul with this jeep and don't mind putting in time and money into it.

 

[tarry99]

If I did go to a power steering set up, what is a ballpark on cost. I brought the jeep back from the dead to become my daily driver, so I, m in for the long haul with this jeep and don't mind putting in time and money into it.

I'm just guessing from memory :
First off a Saginaw 800 steering gear rebuilt w/variable ratio......$400
convert your column parts ............U-joint and bushing $100
Double D steering shaft, 1 more U-joint, may need an adapter at the box just depending on how you mount it.......$200
New Pittman arm $45
Tie rod and new Drag Link & new tie rod ends.......$250 The change over can be configured a few different ways.......
Steering gear mount $35.00
Steel to reinforce from frame rails.....$20
Power steering pump re-built for your engine $75.00
Mounts for the pump for the engine from @ wrecking yard + any pully's and another belt $75
2 new power steering lines $60
The labor to cut , fit ,weld and assemble all the parts. Probably take a weekend if you have everything you need there. If a tilt column is in your future now would be a good time............Again these prices are just from memory

Good Luck!

 

[Sasquach]

After checking your profile to see what tire size your running I got a surprise seeing you have a three inch lift? That in itself is gona cause problems with the factory equip steering, your tie rod set up must have a very steep angle off the bell crank.
I was gona say if you jeep is close to stock specs with regard to tires and lift then go ahead and rebuild the stock system, if you are going beyond even 30 inch tires and 1or 2 inch lift then plan on going to a Saginaw system and then you may as well toss the dana 27? Close knuckle and find a Dana 30 with disc-oops now you need to upgrade the entire brake system.

 

[tomass]

I had not thought of the lift. Here are a few photos of the front. Do you think the tie rods are at too steep an angle?

 

[Sasquach]

Stock would be much closer to flat, maybe a tie rod flip is in order. You could check to see were it would put things with the ball end on top of the knuckle arm instead of under as it is.
The way it is exaggerates the tow setting when the suspension works.

 

[Mark W]

I would be Interested in seeing those pics.

I'll snap some tomorrow for you, it's a much better system.

 

[Mark W]

it's not to complicated just a new steering box and a steering shaft for clearance.

 

[mstar]

The PO of my '69 did a manual Saginaw conversion cutting a hole thru the motor mount perch. With the correct positioning of steering gear and steering column the steering shaft goes over the top of motor mount.
Looks more factory like that way.Either way will work,just cosmetic difference.Another option is the double eye right steering knuckle. Makes a more positive connection for drag link. Just some ideas.Always more than one way to do things. mike

 

[tomass]

Thanks for posting those pics. I am going to do more research and decide what I want to do. At the moment the jeep is my daily driver and only car. So I may go with the path of least resistance and just fix the stock set up, and adjust for the lift somehow. But I am not sure.